Anyone use these guys for replacement engines?

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02redKJ

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At my request, they did not. I doubt they were going to anyway, but I asked them not to. The engine builder recommended that straight 5W30 be used. They used Valvoline oil and the filter that the builder shipped with the engine, as part of the installation kit they bought to go with the engine. From the research I did, my results are not out of the norm. This really is typical. Which is why I changed the oil this soon to begin with.
 
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offroad cowboy

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Put the same oil in it and check it in another 100-250 miles .....pull just the filter and cut it open and look at the filter element and see how much metal is in it and compare to the filter you just changed. If its just machining slag then you should find less metal in it .

sent by telegraph from my k30
 

02redKJ

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pull just the filter and cut it open and look at the filter element and see how much metal is in it and compare to the filter you just changed

That picture was not of the filter. I drained the oil into a clean pan, and then filtered it through a clean piece of t-shirt. After thinking about it some more, I came to this conclusion... I doubt the filter had this much in it. This stuff is heavy and just washed down from above and settled into the bottom of the pan. I filtered all 4.5 quarts and the cloth was relatively clean until the last pint went into the filter. It may have been suspended inside the engine, but I doubt it.
 

02redKJ

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Getting DISGUSTED NOW!

Looks like they ordered the "new" ECU from a junk yard. How does that work? I didn't think that would work. Doesn't the ECU store the odometer and Vin numbers etc?

Haw bad are they going to screw up my Libby? Or is it OK. He said the ECU came out of one with 103,000 miles on it. Mine has 134,000 miles on it. Does it matter?
 

profdlp

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I think they can reset them and/or plug in the data from the old one. If they couldn't, someone in your position could do the same thing, then turn around and try to sell it as having 31,000 miles less on it. Junkyards would be picked clean come trade-in time. :icon_lol:
 

02redKJ

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Another question...

There is a sound coming from under the hood. It sounds like an old Ford with a power steering pump going out, except it doesn't get worse when I turn the steering wheel. Could it be the alternator or the A/C compressor? Or do you still think it is the power steering pump?
 

02redKJ

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I think they can reset them and/or plug in the data from the old one.

Remember, this mechanic is old school. He ain't high tech. He has no diagnostic ECU programming tools.

He may have to take it to the Jeep dealer, eh?
 

profdlp

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That I don't know, though I'd assume it would take a special tool. I think by law they have to do it, though, for the reasons I mentioned above.
 

tjkj2002

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Remember, this mechanic is old school. He ain't high tech. He has no diagnostic ECU programming tools.

He may have to take it to the Jeep dealer, eh?
The dealership can only upload your VIN,as far as mileage that requires the dealership to send it out to have the correct mileage loaded.Make sure they get the proper paperwork to make the swap legal if you ever decide to sell.
 

02redKJ

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The dealership can only upload your VIN,as far as mileage that requires the dealership to send it out to have the correct mileage loaded.Make sure they get the proper paperwork to make the swap legal if you ever decide to sell.

Yeah, More freaking waiting. Now my patience is wearing thin.
 

offroad cowboy

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That picture was not of the filter. I drained the oil into a clean pan, and then filtered it through a clean piece of t-shirt. After thinking about it some more, I came to this conclusion... I doubt the filter had this much in it. This stuff is heavy and just washed down from above and settled into the bottom of the pan. I filtered all 4.5 quarts and the cloth was relatively clean until the last pint went into the filter. It may have been suspended inside the engine, but I doubt it.

Thats why im thinking its metal from the machining process thats why i said cut the filter open that will tell you what is actually tryingto get into the oil passages

sent by telegraph from my k30
 

CactusJacked

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Looks like they ordered the "new" ECU from a junk yard. How does that work? I didn't think that would work. Doesn't the ECU store the odometer and Vin numbers etc?

Haw bad are they going to screw up my Libby? Or is it OK. He said the ECU came out of one with 103,000 miles on it. Mine has 134,000 miles on it. Does it matter?

ECU-Engine Control Unit. Also referred to as an ECM-Engine Control Module. Also referred to as the "engine computer".
The BCM (Body Control Module), which is attached to the fuse panel, is what stores the mileage in conjunction with the odometer. If that were getting changed, then the old and "new" BCM would have to get sent in to be VIN and mileage matched to the car. But they're not changing the BCM too, are they?
Some vehicles store a backup of the miles in the ECU/ECM, not sure if ours is one that does. I'm sure you'll let us know how it goes down, whether your miles stay the same or not.
 

02redKJ

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I'm sure you'll let us know how it goes down, whether your miles stay the same or not.
I will. I still have not heard anything yet today, even though they assured me, that they were going to work on it first thing this morning.

The whine sound at 40 seconds, if that's the one you're talking about, is his alternator.
What makes you say alternator? Have you had that problem before?
 

CactusJacked

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I will. I still have not heard anything yet today, even though they assured me, that they were going to work on it first thing this morning.
What makes you say alternator? Have you had that problem before?

It just has that sound. Not with my Liberty (yet), but yes with other cars in the past. You can pop off your serpentine belt and give each pulley a rotation by hand, you can sometimes feel it when bearings are bad. If the alternator bearings are shot for instance, you can definitely hear it if you give the pulley a quick spin by hand.
 

02redKJ

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No Liberty back!

He put the replacement ECU in and now it won't start. It starts and shuts off. If he does that about 10 or 15 times though, it will stay lit, so he has run it around town and it hasn't thrown the error again. He let it idle for about an hour, and no codes. He is going to go and drive it more tonight and see if it stays good. I told him to drive the pi$$ out of it, just to be sure. He said he would. If it doesn't throw any codes, he will send it out to be reprogrammed. He will send the keys and both ECU units in along with the VIN number. He said the mileage did not change, it stayed at 134,???. So that's good.

He said they will pick it up tomorrow and take it back to the valley. Then the next day they will take it to a place up in Portland to get it programmed, and the next day they will bring it back. This of course is weather permitting. Been some tough storms inland.
 
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