Best rotors for KJ ?

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tjkj2002

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I don't go off roading as much. I like to keep my jeep clean. However I am going to lift it and put bigger tires on it. I need those rotors for the places I drive to. Lots of hills and they don't warp as fast as my old ones did. They work for me.


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You must be doing something wrong if your "warping" standard rotors.

I run Centric Premiums on the front of my KJ which weighs more then 6200lbs trying to stop 35" tires.Granted there 12" discs but standard '70's-'80's F150 rotors and never have warped 1 yet and I live in Colorado with constant up/down driving.I drive my KJ like I stole it also and I'm ******* brakes.I wearout a set of front rotors in 5000 miles but they are never warp,just get below discard due to the special severe duty Black Magic front pads I run for better stopping power that chews the rotors fast.
 

HoosierJeeper

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I have the Centric rotors too...bought them due to them being recommended on the forum here. Was a bit skeptical when I unboxed them, as they were Chinese made but I've had them for probably 25-30k and they're still very smooth. I have EBC Greenstuff pads. I'd go with the same setup again.
 

tjkj2002

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I have the Centric rotors too...bought them due to them being recommended on the forum here. Was a bit skeptical when I unboxed them, as they were Chinese made but I've had them for probably 25-30k and they're still very smooth. I have EBC Greenstuff pads. I'd go with the same setup again.

The guys that make the BlackMagic stuff recommend Centric Premiums since they hold up the best with there pads and what you get when you buy a packaged combo(pads and rotors) from them.

Sadly you just can't find many rotors still made in the USA anymore.
 

HoosierJeeper

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I doubt any of them are made in the USA, at least for production vehicles. Centric must have spec'd good quality metal and processes, they've been great rotors so far. If there were ******, I think I'd know it by now.
 

teeje

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The standard rotors I was getting we're cheap (I didn't install them)


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Jim McClain

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Modern day brake rotors don't warp. That's a myth. What you are feeling that makes you think your rotors are warped is the brake pads. Really bad brake pads can also cause the rotors to wear unevenly, but not warp. Bad brake lines could also cause some "flutter" that feels like warped rotors. Next time you think your rotors are warped, lay a steel straight edge on the surface, or better yet, take them to a machine shop and put them on a lathe and turn them against a guide. Flatter than a pancake. Then check the pads and lines and fix them, not the rotors - unless the pads were so screwed up they damaged the rotors, then replace both.
 

tjkj2002

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Modern day brake rotors don't warp. That's a myth. What you are feeling that makes you think your rotors are warped is the brake pads. Really bad brake pads can also cause the rotors to wear unevenly, but not warp. Bad brake lines could also cause some "flutter" that feels like warped rotors. Next time you think your rotors are warped, lay a steel straight edge on the surface, or better yet, take them to a machine shop and put them on a lathe and turn them against a guide. Flatter than a pancake. Then check the pads and lines and fix them, not the rotors - unless the pads were so screwed up they damaged the rotors, then replace both.

It's called lateral runout.
 

Jim McClain

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Rotor warping is a myth, lateral runout is not. But lateral runout has more to do with the rotor or hub mounting surfaces being uneven or not properly torqued; or rust or debris allowed to buildup on the disk than it does with the disk itself being damaged by normal operation. That sounds like operator error to me, not rotor warping. But even then, lateral runout may not be the problem either. If the driver perceives the flutter or pulsing of the brakes as lateral runout or warped disks, it could be a twisted or damaged brake line/hose instead.
 

JeepJeepster

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You must be doing something wrong if your "warping" standard rotors.

I run Centric Premiums on the front of my KJ which weighs more then 6200lbs trying to stop 35" tires.Granted there 12" discs but standard '70's-'80's F150 rotors and never have warped 1 yet and I live in Colorado with constant up/down driving.I drive my KJ like I stole it also and I'm ******* brakes.I wearout a set of front rotors in 5000 miles but they are never warp,just get below discard due to the special severe duty Black Magic front pads I run for better stopping power that chews the rotors fast.

Ive caught tid bits but never read why, what happened to your engine?


Rotor warping is a myth, lateral runout is not. But lateral runout has more to do with the rotor or hub mounting surfaces being uneven or not properly torqued; or rust or debris allowed to buildup on the disk than it does with the disk itself being damaged by normal operation. That sounds like operator error to me, not rotor warping. But even then, lateral runout may not be the problem either. If the driver perceives the flutter or pulsing of the brakes as lateral runout or warped disks, it could be a twisted or damaged brake line/hose instead.

I understand what youre saying, so why does the vibrating stop when the rotors are machined if its a hub mounting surface issue?
 

TheBlueKJ

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Because with lateral runout there are inconsistencies on the rotor surface some areas being thicker than others that cause the caliper to go in and out as the pads go over the different thicknesses. Once you machine away those differences the problem goes away


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CalcityRenegade

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I think the term warped is just to explain an issue easier than lateral runout lol. It seems most people are not even aware you are supposed to change engine oil haha.
 

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