Blanking plate for the EGR

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Somewhere on here or perhaps on the internet I found a diagram for making a blanking plate to close off the EGR system but before I do it what else has to be done, if anything? Is there a sensor to disconnect, for example? As the Jeep (2005 KJ 2.8CRD) has failed its test on emissions (mentioned in another posting) do I need to remove the EGR and clean it?

Or do I simply blank it off and that's it?

Any advice appreciated.
Thanks,
John
 

04Liberty

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
1,303
Reaction score
89
Location
MD
You will make the PCM quite unhappy if you just blank if off and that's it.
 

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
1,434
Reaction score
817
Location
Uk
Depending on where you live it may cause issues with emissions checks because it will put the engine management light on. Clean or replace the MAP sensor and check the air filter is clean. Make sure the EGR isn't stuck open and take it for a good fast run before it's retest.
Long-term I'd look at chipping it out or making the SEGR mod.
 

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Thanks for the replies and my apologies for the delay in responding.

I cleaned the MAF sensor, which was full of debris, using a MAF cleaner bought on the 'net. Oh, and the air cleaner is relatively new having been installed only 3,000 miles ago. I've also removed and cleaned the MAP sensor which was completely clogged with black muck.

I'm still getting a P0069 code so tomorrow, hopefully, I'm going to have a go at removing the EGR and cleaning that. I have until the 2nd January to get it back to the testing station and passed otherwise I will have to pay the full price again, so there's a good incentive.

In the meantime the Jeep is running really well and a pleasure to drive.
 

sleazy rider

Retired moto tech and gearhead
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
540
Reaction score
499
Location
SE Michigan
As suggested above, take it out and flog it like its a rental. Hard acceleration in a remote, unpatrolled area and run it up to triple digits a couple times.
 

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
As suggested above, take it out and flog it like its a rental. Hard acceleration in a remote, unpatrolled area and run it up to triple digits a couple times.
I think I'll have to do what you suggest and take it for a run. I've this morning removed the battery and fuel filter and I'm not sure that I'm looking at the EGR. If I am it looks like a pig of a job. I've done some difficult jobs in my time but this looks almost impossible. I can see what I think are the two top bolts holding it on (about 2 - 2 1/2 inches apart and vertical) but I can't see the other two. It's a unit right at the back of the engine with two small hoses going to it and what looks like a bigger ribbed hose coming off the front of it. Is that the EGR? HELP!
 

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
1,434
Reaction score
817
Location
Uk
There are 2 types of EGR valve depending on year, older ones are vacuum operated, later ones are electronic, the pictures below show vacuum at the top & 2 views of the electronic valve. Is that what you are looking at?
You must be registered for see images attach
 

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Thanks for that. Very helpful. Mine is the lower electronic one. I decided to try to clean it without removing it and have been out and bought an EGR cleaning kit locally from the French equivalent of Halfords in the UK. Not cheap at €38. It contains a liquid to add to the fuel and a spray with which to clean the EGR - it's to use on a removed EGR but I'm wondering whether I can spray this in very small spurts into the intake as shown on a video on You Tube. I'll let you know how I get on.
 

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
1,434
Reaction score
817
Location
Uk
Had a brief look on the Web for your fault code, you might want to hold off on pulling the EGR....
You must be registered for see images attach

It also mentions that later jeeps have the barometric sensor in the side of the airbox so worth a look.

Edit - typed this before I saw your last post!
 

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Thank you for that. Despite cleaning the MAF and MAP sensors it failed again, with P0069 still coming up on the Test Centre's results screen. I had it wiped half an hour before the test but the drive to the Centre of about 8 kms (5 miles) brought it up again.

Are you suggesting that I buy a new MAP sensor? And I'll have a look for the barometric sensor tomorrow morning. I think at the same time I will attempt to remove and clean the EGR valve as everything I've read on the 'net says that these need cleaning from time to time. Isn't there another part that cokes up? If so, where will I find it?

I'm beginning to worry now that I will have to take it to a Jeep dealer - the nearest one at Angouleme, about 35 miles away at a joint Jeep/Mercedes agency, was closed last year, so the nearest one now will be a long way away I think. For some reason it looks as though Mercedes decided to sever their relationship with Jeep.
 

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
1,434
Reaction score
817
Location
Uk
I don't want to spend your money for you! Isn't there a local garage with diagnosis gear? What you really need is someone who can read live data from the sensors.
It's possible that the MAP sensor is out of range, the diagnosis code describes the ECU performing a test between the two sensors, however without test gear it's a guess which one is faulty, it's also worth checking wiring and connectors.
Reading up on it my (earlier) jeep has the second sensor built into the ECU, so if you can't find it on the air box it's built in!

How is it driving? If the MAP isn't working correctly then the performance should be down because the ECU uses the pressure data to work out fueling when you're on boost.
 

Sevenmilesout

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2016
Messages
17
Reaction score
3
Location
Montpellier
Hiya, I'm in France too with a 2007 2.8crd. I suggest you obtain a new MAP sensor & this Facom product. I failed my Controle Technique in August, not for the MAP, which I had already changed but for emissions. From experience, the MAP can get easily clogged up. Blast with carb cleaner before you buy a new one.

The Facom product did the trick after just 100km of driving. Retest was fine.

 

The gov

Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2022
Messages
32
Reaction score
27
As suggested above, take it out and flog it like its a rental. Hard acceleration in a remote, unpatrolled area and run it up to triple digits a couple times.
Exactly! we have the same problem with ISX Cummins engines and a half gallon of Kerosene and a hot run works miracles
 

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Thanks everyone for your input. Most appreciated. I hae found what appears to be another sensor on the airbox ahead of the MAP sensor - it has a small diameter prong with a very small circular aperture. Could be the barometric pressure sensor? Anyway I sprayed MAF cleaner into it and gently blew it out, not that it appeared to be blocked.

I ordered a MAP sensor yesterday and will fit that when it arrives, though I'm not too hopeful.

Thanks Sevenmilesout ref the Facom product but I don't think that will do the trick this time. For the last test 2 years ago it failed initially but at the Tester's suggestion I put some of that in the tank, drove it hard for a while and then took it back and it passed. This time he says it is something different.

This time it's the MAP and Barometric sensors not agreeing with each other he says. He didn't even put an emissions sniffer up the exhaust - he relied entirely upon his computer which said that as a result of the above it had failed! In fact it's running really well since I cleaned the MAF and MAP sensors but he won't pass it because his computer says "NO"!

I've given up on removing the EGR valve to clean it after spending several hours trying to do so and after buying an long offset 8mm ring spanner which did the trick in reaching the 4 8mm bolts, but the EGR was impossible to remove because the steel tube that attaches to it that comes across the back of the engine (from the exhaust?) doesn't just have a flange but also goes into the valve a little. As this tube is solid and doesn't move even a millimetre it is impossible to slide out the valve. So I reassembled everything and called it a day.

I've done some very difficult jobs on vehicles in my time but this one had defeated me. Fingers crossed that the new MAP sensor does the job otherwise I'll be heading to a garage and reluctantly spending some money, but thanks everyone for trying to help.
 

turblediesel

memberable
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
3,421
Reaction score
1,158
Location
Alaska
The EGR tube does go to the rear of the exhaust manifold and is held on with a v-clamp. There's also a small bracket holding it to the back of the head with a 10mm bolt.
 

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
1,434
Reaction score
817
Location
Uk
Check the connections on both sensors, might be a bit of corrosion, if the MAP doesn't clear it then the barometric is probably the culprit. Happy New year and good luck!
 

John Todd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
3
Hello again. Well, I fitted a new MAP sensor and, guess what, it passed the retest! Thanks for all suggestions, all very much appreciated. I'll now await warmer weather and have a look at cleaning the EGR etc.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top