Calling all Hot climate area members [AC mods?]

[uss2defiant]

Regarding the temperature differences for the HD vs. SEVERE fan clutches, I emailed Hayden.

Thanks for your email. Yes they both start to engage at 170 degrees of air temp passing through the grill. Hope this is some help. Have a great day.

This means the only difference is when the clutch engages/disengages relative to the shaft speed.

HD
-Turns the fan 70-90% of the shaft speed when engaged for increased cooling.
-Turns the fan 25-35% of the shaft speed when disengaged.

Severe Duty
-Turns the fan 80-90% of the shaft speed when engaged.
-Turns the fan 20-30% of the shaft speed when disengaged

Not much difference in my opinion besides that size.

 

[uss2defiant]

Yep and totally normal and is standard on every vehicle with OBDII.

Interesting. didn't know/notice that.

So this will most likely be noticeable when flooring it?

 

[tjkj2002]

Interesting. didn't know/notice that.

So this will most likely be noticeable when flooring it?

Yes,WOT(while in gear) will disengage the AC clutch no matter what on any vehicle.

 

[Aztimer2]

most creative solution award goes to you!

Hahahahahaha Hahn!!!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[uss2defiant]

anyone using a condenser/rad comb to straighten the fins?

I bought a set some time ago and it's doesn't have the right size I need.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/FCRH6-Ge...2764&wl11=online&wl12=186747573&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[uss2defiant]

okay peeps, since my AC 'issue' and most of everyone's issue is during idling/jeep not moving periods, I'll attempt the following $5-ish experiment.

Before wrap and after wrap.
1. drive the 15 miles manual states to drive minimum before checking ****** fluid.
2. jeep in park
3. note the temperature from the center vent closest to driver after 1, 2 & 3 minutes. (AC in recirc mode at blower speed 3)
4. drive some to get vent temp. normalizes back to the lowest temp.
5. repeat #3 & #4 and again so I have three data sets.


I'll be wrapping the low side line after the orifice/after the low side valve until right before the flexible rubber part.

 

[nnote]

okay peeps, since my AC 'issue' and most of everyone's issue is during idling/jeep not moving periods, I'll attempt the following $5-ish experiment.

I'll be wrapping the low side line after the orifice/after the low side valve until right before the flexible rubber part.

Nice! Was planning on picking up some insulation tape this weekend and give it a go.... I'll wait for your results.

 

[uss2defiant]

Nice! Was planning on picking up some insulation tape this weekend and give it a go.... I'll wait for your results.

What were you planning to wrap?

I am also considering making a heat shield for the accumulator so there's a less temperature difference to reduce the load on the compressor.
I'm not a mechanical engineer w/ thermo background so I'll need to research a little more on that.

 

[whitejeep05]

Texas here - Best improvement came from spraying my condenser with coil cleaner.

It's still not as cold as my other vehicles but it works fine.

 

[uss2defiant]

Texas here - Best improvement came from spraying my condenser with coil cleaner.

It's still not as cold as my other vehicles but it works fine.

i've tried that and there wasn't a difference. I do clean it every opportunity I get.

 

[nnote]

What were you planning to wrap?

I am also considering making a heat shield for the accumulator so there's a less temperature difference to reduce the load on the compressor.
I'm not a mechanical engineer w/ thermo background so I'll need to research a little more on that.

The cold freon line

 

[uss2defiant]

okay. sounds good.
I just got the numbers for the non-wrapped liquid line.
going to let it cool down before wrapping it.

It's going to be a challenge to wrap this thing since there's not much room.

 

[adamkrz]

The liquid line should not be wrapped - it is discharging from the condenser and should lose heat not keep it.

Anything on the suction side ( low side ) can be insulated.

 

[uss2defiant]

The liquid line should not be wrapped - it is discharging from the condenser and should lose heat not keep it.

Anything on the suction side ( low side ) can be insulated.

isn't the liquid line aka the low side line?

Isn't the suction line from the evap to the compressor?

 

[uss2defiant]

I suppose low side liquid line?
I think it goes from high pressure gas to low pressure liquid after the orifice tube.

 

[tjkj2002]

isn't the liquid line aka the low side line?

Isn't the suction line from the evap to the compressor?

I suppose low side liquid line?
I think it goes from high pressure gas to low pressure liquid after the orifice tube.

At the orifice tube the R134A goes from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure gas.From the orifice tube all the way to the compressor the R134A is a low pressure gas.

Just remember the compressor can not compress a liquid.The condenser cools the high pressure gas to a high pressure liquid.

 

[uss2defiant]

At the orifice tube the R134A goes from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure gas.From the orifice tube all the way to the compressor the R134A is a low pressure gas.

Just remember the compressor can not compress a liquid.The condenser cools the high pressure gas to a high pressure liquid.

ah. I thought that the refrigerant goes back to a gas state after the evaporator.
Thanks for the clarification.

The refrigerant after the expansion or orifice tube drops the high pressure to low pressure causing a state change from liquid to gas. (banghead) (banghead)

 

[LibertyTC]

Would be nice to have a cooler engine bay on the Jeep. (hood vents)
If you could drive with the hood off, I bet the AC would be a lot cooler.
GM uses a shiny silver heat pad type material on some of their cold lines near firewalls.
I did wrap my sedan's with a split foam material, ya it was colder then by a few degrees. :gr_grin:

 

[uss2defiant]

well went out and about today with the wifey for 50% goodwill and picked up my sears order, no change so far.

 

[adamkrz]

It does depend where the metering device ( orifice ) is, On a normal house A/C the orifice is at the beginning of the evaporator where the high pressure high temp liquid leaves the orifice as a low pressure liquid which evaporates into a gas by the time it leaves the evaporator causing cooling.

It was easier in the older cars with R12 refrigerant which had a sight glass exiting the condenser, when the bubbles cleared the system was full also the charge wasn't as critical with the larger amount of refrigerant in the system.

So if the pipes or cold insulating them would help.