Clevis lift question

[mx3_ryder]

3/8" top plate can be made by anyone with some metal and a torch. I have a set here that are actually 3/16, doubled up (2 each side) for 3/8" total.
3/8" is max for top plate, and 2 extra isolators is max for the top, but rules can be and have been broken.

I have full access to material and cnc bridgeport if needed as I work for a machine shop so I may just look into fabbing up a 3/8" top plate. Thanks for the info.

 

[4x4kayak2112]

I have full access to material and cnc bridgeport if needed as I work for a machine shop so I may just look into fabbing up a 3/8" top plate. Thanks for the info.

Yeah easy to make, and honestly they dont have to be perfect if your making them for yourself. But dosent take long. Theres a pic with the measurements somewhere.

 

[mx3_ryder]

Found the dimensions over on LOST

 

[mx3_ryder]

3/8" top plate can be made by anyone with some metal and a torch. I have a set here that are actually 3/16, doubled up (2 each side) for 3/8" total.
3/8" is max for top plate, and 2 extra isolators is max for the top, but rules can be and have been broken.

Hey 4X4kayak... I take it the factory studs are still long enough to except 3/8" top plate?

 

[4x4kayak2112]

Hey 4X4kayak... I take it the factory studs are still long enough to except 3/8" top plate?

Yep. But thats the max with stock top mount. Daystar has a max of 1/4"

 

[nowherefast77]

JBA says...

So I know this thread is a little old, was looking for info on the clevis lift concept. I know the conduit nuts are just for equal measurment, per and 3/8 is said to be the absolute max. Right after i read a ton clevis lift search results, I just happened upon a link to a JBA page from their site selling "clevis lift spacers" in 3 sizes for 3 different heights.

.250 for .5" of lift,
.375 for .75" of lift
&
.500 for 1" of lift....

So if JBA are the gods of all things liberty as it would seem from all the times they're spouted about on all the forums then I would think the half inch would be ok? Or are they wrong on this account? :shrug:

 

[tommudd]

So I know this thread is a little old, was looking for info on the clevis lift concept. I know the conduit nuts are just for equal measurment, per and 3/8 is said to be the absolute max. Right after i read a ton clevis lift search results, I just happened upon a link to a JBA page from their site selling "clevis lift spacers" in 3 sizes for 3 different heights.

.250 for .5" of lift,
.375 for .75" of lift
&
.500 for 1" of lift....

So if JBA are the gods of all things liberty as it would seem from all the times they're spouted about on all the forums then I would think the half inch would be ok? Or are they wrong on this account? :shrug:

OK on the Ironman you can use the 1/2 inch, it can be done
BUT I never recommend it
You're pulling a lot out of the clevis doing so.
best bet is 3/8 inch clevis and then 1/4 inch top plate if you want more or top plate and adjust clevis to what you need

 

[nowherefast77]

Aah gotcha. So now with the top plate spacer. Taking into account you're limited by the length of the studs, is 1/4 the max or can you get away with say 3/8 there as well?

Also for the top plate spacer, and this could very well be an ignorant question ( only suspension experience I have is with rebuilding tons of military hummvee front & rear IS) but.... Unless I'm missing something, I'm not really seeing the difference between the top plate spacer and say the RRO OTT spacer. Getting of course the plate going between coil over and body mount and the RRO going between spring and coil over top plate. But aren't they essentially doing the same thing? I would think that no matter where a spacer mounts the spring would still be compressed that extra amount to accommodate the extra length?

 

[4x4kayak2112]

OK on the Ironman you can use the 1/2 inch, it can be done
BUT I never recommend it
You're pulling a lot out of the clevis doing so.
best bet is 3/8 inch clevis and then 1/4 inch top plate if you want more or top plate and adjust clevis to what you need

X2. Or do a 3/8" top plate and a 3/8" clevis space.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[tommudd]

Aah gotcha. So now with the top plate spacer. Taking into account you're limited by the length of the studs, is 1/4 the max or can you get away with say 3/8 there as well?

Also for the top plate spacer, and this could very well be an ignorant question ( only suspension experience I have is with rebuilding tons of military hummvee front & rear IS) but.... Unless I'm missing something, I'm not really seeing the difference between the top plate spacer and say the RRO OTT spacer. Getting of course the plate going between coil over and body mount and the RRO going between spring and coil over top plate. But aren't they essentially doing the same thing? I would think that no matter where a spacer mounts the spring would still be compressed that extra amount to accommodate the extra length?

Two completely different things. The top plate sits ( on top) so does not affect the springs. Now the spacer lifts sit on top of the springs so preloads the spring even sitting still. So olot of difference. Now the RRO OTT crap does sit on top but also gives over 2 inches of lift( in a bad way )

 

[Cpt Marvel]

What's a "Clevis"?

 

[Gyro]

What's a "Clevis"?

The tuning fork looking part that connects the lca to the bottom of shock.
The 2nd pic shows where to place spacer/s for "clevis lift".

Gyro

 

[mikejeepstarternoob]

I might as well help this thread revive too.

Has anyone here actually used 2010 and up clevis? The new "stamped" one thats supposed to be taller and look different? I read it here once but i cant find it now.

 

[4x4kayak2112]

I might as well help this thread revive too.

Has anyone here actually used 2010 and up clevis? The new "stamped" one thats supposed to be taller and look different? I read it here once but i cant find it now.

Yes its 3/8" longer.

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[mikejeepstarternoob]

Yes its 3/8" longer.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Cool! I can see possibility of replacing this with clevis lift.

Now, 1/4 plate + ome 927 + 3/8 longer clevis is this set up ok as far as clearance, ride etc? How come i dont see too many people with that?

 

[4x4kayak2112]

Cool! I can see possibility of replacing this with clevis lift.

Now, 1/4 plate + ome 927 + 3/8 longer clevis is this set up ok as far as clearance, ride etc? How come i dont see too many people with that?

The longer clevis just takes place of the 3/8 clevis space, so its just wasted money unless you add in a clevis space At 3.75" or so is really max with OME. Anymore the arms will be sitting on the coils and make tons of noise.

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[nowherefast77]

Two completely different things. The top plate sits ( on top) so does not affect the springs. Now the spacer lifts sit on top of the springs so preloads the spring even sitting still. So olot of difference. Now the RRO OTT crap does sit on top but also gives over 2 inches of lift( in a bad way )

Definitely not refuting you, from my extensive lurking period I can tell you have a great amount of knowledge with the liberty and suspensions in general. I have quite a bit of knowledge with rebuilding and repairing factory applications but not actual theory and definitely not lifting. I guess I'm still missing something though. I'm a visual person/learner. I need to take a good look at our suspensions and pay attention to how it's all pieced together.

 

[nowherefast77]

I might as well help this thread revive too.

Has anyone here actually used 2010 and up clevis? The new "stamped" one thats supposed to be taller and look different? I read it here once but i cant find it now.

Heh, yeah the revival was my doing. It's funny, I actually have a KK and every time a see a KJ I feel like it actually sits higher then me.

 

[tommudd]

Cool! I can see possibility of replacing this with clevis lift.

Now, 1/4 plate + ome 927 + 3/8 longer clevis is this set up ok as far as clearance, ride etc? How come i dont see too many people with that?

Id still use factory and the clevis
Those stamped steel parts look mighty cheap to me. Will they hold up, well they should but for the cost difference I'll always stick with the 3/8 inch clevis

 

[tommudd]

Definitely not refuting you, from my extensive lurking period I can tell you have a great amount of knowledge with the liberty and suspensions in general. I have quite a bit of knowledge with rebuilding and repairing factory applications but not actual theory and definitely not lifting. I guess I'm still missing something though. I'm a visual person/learner. I need to take a good look at our suspensions and pay attention to how it's all pieced together.

Look it over and ask again:icon_lol: