Coolant to achieve 50/50?

[blamc70]

I've just bought a used KJ, and have been flushing the cooling system by draining and flushing first tap, then finally several gallons of distilled water through (over the course of about a week). When training, I'm only using the small drain valve at the bottom (driver's side) of the radiator. This of course is only draining about half of the water out of the system, as the other is still in the block. I really don't want to try to take the block drains out. I'm ready now to get the antifreeze (Zerex G-05) in.

My assumption/question is, since I'm really only getting half of the water out by using the radiator drain, shouldn't I now just add straight, unmixed antifreeze into the bottle? My thinking is, since the whole system holds about 14-15 quarts, and I'm only draining about 7 quarts of distilled water out of the radiator drain, if I add straight antifreeze in and run the engine, it should mix and end up being a 50/50 mix, right? It seems to make sense, but I haven't found this particular thing discussed very much anywhere, and didn't want to damage anything. How long do you thing before it is fairly well mixed?

Thanks in advance!

 

[uss2defiant]

depending on which liberty you have.
3.7L has 14 quarts
2.4L has 10 quarts

you may or may not be draining half of the total volume. so do the math.
Half of that is pure coolant you need to pour in then top it off with more DI water.

wait... i'll just do the math for you
3.7 needs 1 and 3/4 gallons
2.4 needs 1 and 1/4 gallons

run it long enough and you should see coolant shooting out into the reservoir from the overflow hose.
You can also run the heater on to get the coolant mixing as well.

 

[LibertyTC]

I am not overly familiar with the Zerex G05 as I use the dealer Hoat which is full strength /not pre-mixed .
Yes you are on track and let your antifreeze tester be your friend.
You could remove the lower rad hose to drain more effectively as well.
Then fill through the bleed air hole in top hose & reservoir of course.
The main idea is that since you mainly have the water in block now, you need to add full strength coolant, which will mix. Then take a a coolant reading, once it has mixed properly from reservoir, using your tester.
A 50-50 mix should read achieve around -35 protection. You may have to drain twice and add full strength to get there, lots more water in the block sometimes will reflect in the readings.
My jeep reads -50 for winter Alberta conditions.

 

[blamc70]

Awesome... thanks! That's what I was thinking, just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something. The Zerex G-05 that I have is full strength HOAT.

 

[ftaa]

i've been thinking on converting my coolant to the evans waterlesss... never needs changing works in chryslers and if forever reason you need to take it out you can reuse it ... boiling point is at least 50 degrees higher than hoat

 

[LibertyTC]

IDK how Evans would work or react with a plastic impeller found in our pumps though.
You also would have to consider removing all previous coolant from block, pull frost plugs, to ensure the Evans would be as pure as possible, initially.
Edit: I am not confident that "never needs" changing should be attempted either.
A "Happy" Jeep has clean oils,lubes,and all related fluids. Nothing lasts forever!

 

[ftaa]

IDK how Evans would work or react with a plastic impeller found in our pumps though.
You also would have to consider removing all previous coolant from block, pull frost plugs, to ensure the Evans would be as pure as possible, initially.
Edit: I am not confident that "never needs" changing should be attempted either.
A "Happy" Jeep has clean oils,lubes,and all related fluids. Nothing lasts forever!

its scientifically proven with a complete enginme warranty .. if their product kills your motor they replace it ... i have a friend that has the evans in his durango and all is well hes run it for a LONG time . towing a 22 ft trailer ... its still the same as when he put it in (over 150k ago) we took a little out of his used and some of the new .. put it on a digital burner it boils at about 280 f is i remeber correctly. and it is garnuteed to never need changing.. from my understanding ... if its in writing ill give it a shot.

edit: yes you have to "superflush" the system to get all the hoat out we fluched his durango at least 1/2 a dozzen times.

 

[CalcityRenegade]

its scientifically proven with a complete enginme warranty .. if their product kills your motor they replace it ... i have a friend that has the evans in his durango and all is well hes run it for a LONG time . towing a 22 ft trailer ... its still the same as when he put it in (over 150k ago) we took a little out of his used and some of the new .. put it on a digital burner it boils at about 280 f is i remeber correctly. and it is garnuteed to never need changing.. from my understanding ... if its in writing ill give it a shot.

edit: yes you have to "superflush" the system to get all the hoat out we fluched his durango at least 1/2 a dozzen times.

Not hating but more curious if anything, Evans sounds like it might be a good candidate for my Titan as I will be doing some longer distance towing in hot weather, That does seem like a whole lot of work just to run another kind of anti-freeze but that's just me, And for the warranty I can only assume it would only be covered if you ran it since day one or at least a minimum mileage like BG and other companies do, I personally would just be leery doing all that work just to switch something that already works, I have learned a couple times now with most stuff that "If it ain't broke, Don't fix it", I am curious how it would work on a vehicle that is not new or low mileage and already likely has corrosion.

 

[ftaa]

i agree its just something i thought of its reasonable and im due for a collant change anyway ... and since id be doing it myself it would be fairly cheap