Coolant/windshield fluid Bottle

[Phuc Nguyen]

Hi everyone, I am new to KK model.
Just purchased a 2011 Liberty Limited Edition that needs some works done.
1). Wanted to check for transmission fluid level, but there is no dip stick, how do you check your fluid level.
2). Looking down at the engine. The white plastic bottle on far right is windshield washer fluid, the one in middle is for coolant and has orange color, the one on far left has green color fluid, what is it.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Him73067]

Can you upload a picture?

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Can you upload a picture?

Reservoir has orange, radiator has green color.
Thanks for reply.

 

[lfhoward]

The left hand opening with the green is your radiator cap opening and the reservoir with the orange is the coolant reservoir for the radiator. The previous owner combined coolant types which is terrible and will lead to major clogging if the cooling passages and heater core if not flushed asap. The coolant should be replaced with 100% HOAT coolant (orange if Mopar, or gold if Zerex G05).

It is a good thing you caught this problem now and not later. Nice job thinking this isn’t normal. It’s not!

 

[Chad S]

Reservoir has orange, radiator has green color.
Thanks for reply.

Is it just me or does that green coolant look a little milky?

 

[ShowMe Cherokee]

Yes, Chrysler in their infinite wisdom, decided that us ignorant peons aren't qualified to check our own transmission fluid levels. So you have to buy one of these to do it yourself (fortunately not too expensive):

Transmission Fluid Dipstick

It does come with the temp chart so you can actually do the correct measurement.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Is it just me or does that green coolant look a little milky?

The left hand opening with the green is your radiator cap opening and the reservoir with the orange is the coolant reservoir for the radiator. The previous owner combined coolant types which is terrible and will lead to major clogging if the cooling passages and heater core if not flushed asap. The coolant should be replaced with 100% HOAT coolant (orange if Mopar, or gold if Zerex G05).

It is a good thing you caught this problem now and not later. Nice job thinking this isn’t normal. It’s not!

I will when all necessary parts replace for inspection in PA.
Purchased this Jeep from Lồng Island NY.
Currently in the works:
1)

The left hand opening with the green is your radiator cap opening and the reservoir with the orange is the coolant reservoir for the radiator. The previous owner combined coolant types which is terrible and will lead to major clogging if the cooling passages and heater core if not flushed asap. The coolant should be replaced with 100% HOAT coolant (orange if Mopar, or gold if Zerex G05).

It is a good thing you caught this problem now and not later. Nice job thinking this isn’t normal. It’s not!

Purchased this Jeep from Long Island NY, with low mileage. Drove 250 miles home without issue.
Engine and transmision are strong.

Currently in the works, prepare for inspection in PA once all the worn out parts replaced.
1. Replace upper and lower control arms, L & R. Done
2. Replace rear shocks. L & R. Done
3. Replace rear brake pads, L & R. Done
4. Replace spark plugs, ZFR6F-11G. Done
5. Replace cabin air filters. Done
6. Replace air filter. Done
7. Replace Muffler, tail pipe and resonator. Done
8. Front CV axle assembly, L & R.
9. Front spring/shock assembly, L & R.
10. Front hub/bearing assembly, L & R.
11. Transmission fluid and filter.
12. Flush cooling system, replace with G05 coolant, once bullet 8 thru 12 are completed.

Once all completed and inspected. This Jeep will serve us well for the next 10 years or more.

Have a heck of time trying remove front lug nuts, 4 out of 10 are seized and would not budge. Using lug nuts remover, didn't help but made it worse, snapped the nuts off leaving the chamfer portion stuck to the wheel. Drill out lug bolts, didn't help, all the bits are dull and worn out. Last resort, waiting for 1/4" shanks carbide metal grinding bits to arrive and try out to see any luck getting the front wheels off.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Is it just me or does that green coolant look a little milky?

No, because I sticked my finger in there and feel it. Could be me stirring up the gunk residual.
Thanks Chad S.

 

[Chad S]

I will when all necessary parts replace for inspection in PA.
Purchased this Jeep from Lồng Island NY.
Currently in the works:
1)

Purchased this Jeep from Long Island NY, with low mileage. Drove 250 miles home without issue.
Engine and transmision are strong.

Currently in the works, prepare for inspection in PA once all the worn out parts replaced.
1. Replace upper and lower control arms, L & R. Done
2. Replace rear shocks. L & R. Done
3. Replace rear brake pads, L & R. Done
4. Replace spark plugs, ZFR6F-11G. Done
5. Replace cabin air filters. Done
6. Replace air filter. Done
7. Replace Muffler, tail pipe and resonator. Done
8. Front CV axle assembly, L & R.
9. Front spring/shock assembly, L & R.
10. Front hub/bearing assembly, L & R.
11. Transmission fluid and filter.
12. Flush cooling system, replace with G05 coolant, once bullet 8 thru 12 are completed.

Once all completed and inspected. This Jeep will serve us well for the next 10 years or more.

Have a heck of time trying remove front lug nuts, 4 out of 10 are seized and would not budge. Using lug nuts remover, didn't help but made it worse, snapped the nuts off leaving the chamfer portion stuck to the wheel. Drill out lug bolts, didn't help, all the bits are dull and worn out. Last resort, waiting for 1/4" shanks carbide metal grinding bits to arrive and try out to see any luck getting the front wheels off.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

I suggest adding a trans pan with a drain plug for ease in the future.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

I will when all necessary parts replace for inspection in PA.
Purchased this Jeep from Lồng Island NY.
Currently in the works:
1)

Purchased this Jeep from Long Island NY, with low mileage. Drove 250 miles home without issue.
Engine and transmision are strong.

Currently in the works, prepare for inspection in PA once all the worn out parts replaced.
1. Replace upper and lower control arms, L & R. Done
2. Replace rear shocks. L & R. Done
3. Replace rear brake pads, L & R. Done
4. Replace spark plugs, ZFR6F-11G. Done
5. Replace cabin air filters. Done
6. Replace air filter. Done
7. Replace Muffler, tail pipe and resonator. Done
8. Front CV axle assembly, L & R.
9. Front spring/shock assembly, L & R.
10. Front hub/bearing assembly, L & R.
11. Transmission fluid and filter.
12. Flush cooling system, replace with G05 coolant, once bullet 8 thru 12 are completed.

Once all completed and inspected. This Jeep will serve us well for the next 10 years or more.

Have a heck of time trying remove front lug nuts, 4 out of 10 are seized and would not budge. Using lug nuts remover, didn't help but made it worse, snapped the nuts off leaving the chamfer portion stuck to the wheel. Drill out lug bolts, didn't help, all the bits are dull and worn out. Last resort, waiting for 1/4" shanks carbide metal grinding bits to arrive and try out to see any luck getting the front wheels off.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

Correction, bullet #1 Replace REAR upper and lower control arms, L & R. Done ✔
Have a heck of a time to replace rear control arms.
Everything I replaced on this Jeep are original,
Here is the picture of the Dark Deep Blue.
It looks black at different angles.
Finally got 4 seized lug nuts out with carbide metal grinding bits, now is the time to replace front axles, hubs and strut/coil spring assemblies.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

I will when all necessary parts replace for inspection in PA.
Purchased this Jeep from Lồng Island NY.
Currently in the works:
1)

Purchased this Jeep from Long Island NY, with low mileage. Drove 250 miles home without issue.
Engine and transmision are strong.

Currently in the works, prepare for inspection in PA once all the worn out parts replaced.
1. Replace upper and lower control arms, L & R. Done
2. Replace rear shocks. L & R. Done
3. Replace rear brake pads, L & R. Done
4. Replace spark plugs, ZFR6F-11G. Done
5. Replace cabin air filters. Done
6. Replace air filter. Done
7. Replace Muffler, tail pipe and resonator. Done
8. Front CV axle assembly, L & R. Done
9. Front spring/shock assembly, L & R.
10. Front hub/bearing assembly, L & R.
11. Transmission fluid and filter.
12. Flush cooling system, replace with G05 coolant.

The only thing left is bullet #11.

Once all completed and inspected. This Jeep will serve us well for the next 10 years or more.

Have a heck of time trying remove front lug nuts, 4 out of 10 are seized and would not budge. Using lug nuts remover, didn't help but made it worse, snapped the nuts off leaving the chamfer portion stuck to the wheel. Drill out lug bolts, didn't help, all the bits are dull and worn out. Last resort, waiting for 1/4" shanks carbide metal grinding bits to arrive and try out to see any luck getting the front wheels off.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

The only thing left is bullet #11.

Bullet #11 Completed.
Replaced transmission fluid, filter and transmision pan with drain plug. Drive for 100 miles, drained and refilled again to flush out most of old fluid. Using close to 6 quart each fill. Runs like a champ.

Saw a former neighbor, who owns a KK model, said that he measures his transmission fluid when COLD by using same CROSS HATCH AREA on ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK. Looks like it works for me, because it jumps at shifting when 20 ounces short, after add 20 ounces, it ran great, no shifting issue. Believe it or not I measure it when cold and it lands right on top of cross hatch area.

While underneath the engine area the vehicle, noticed oil leaking around power steering pump and high pressure line is kind of rusty. New power steering pump, pulley, high pressure line and return line has been ordered and arrived.
Waiting for weather to warmed up and new

 

[suebf]

Start the vehicle and let it run for a few minutes until it reaches normal operating temperature. The transmission fluid needs to be at a certain temperature to get an accurate reading.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

Start the vehicle and let it run for a few minutes until it reaches normal operating temperature. The transmission fluid needs to be at a certain temperature to get an accurate reading.

Thanks, Suebf.

 

[Phuc Nguyen]

I was driving 200 miles, one way, in snowy weather. During return, I barely see the road at night and realising that headlights lens are caked/covered with road salt. Had to find a safe place every 20-30 minutes to wash the lens.
Never experiencing this type of road salt covered the lens on any of my other vehicles.
How do you prevent this issue from happening in the future or just cleaning when needed. TIA.