CRD boost diagnostic

[Btownpreacher]

I’m having trouble on my 05 CRD. I have an under boost code as well as a maf low circuit performance. The turbo seems to be struggling, but I think I might also have a boost leak. The CAC hoses have already been replaced with silicone and I’ve checked them multiple times. How do I check the intercooler for leaks, and how do I know if it’s one of the vacuum/boost solenoids? What diagnostics do I do to find out? It will build boost but the lag is terrible and it isn’t making as much boost as what it should. Recently did a full timing belt kit, serpentine belt kit, glow plugs, and the Sasquatch parts fuel pump kit. That’s when it started getting worse. I redid the timing to make sure it was correct and the only thing off was my injection pump. I did all the work because it had a horrendous metallic rattle. After the work it was still there. Did a cylinder contribution test and the cylinders are all firing fine so it shouldn’t be a valve train issue. Not sure where else to look. I know it’s under-boosted so I’m starting with that.

 

[KJowner]

The rattle could be lifters and/or worn cams. For the running issues have you cleaned the MAP sensor recently? A dirty or faulty MAP will kill the performance.

 

[turblediesel]

"Horrendous metallic rattle"... Did you add a new water pump with the belt change? Could be a rocker-lifter jumped off and maybe fell deep into the counterbalancers down low in the engine. With four valves per cylinder you can lose one rocker and the cylinder can still work at reduced capacity. Exhaust valves sometimes break. Valve seats sometimes drop. The tips on the oem ceramic glowplugs break off and cause damage as they dance with the piston and valves.

Otherwise check the bottom of the hose going from the airbox to the turbo. They tend to rot a hole there with a loss of power. There's a turbo actuator controller that controls the variable vanes in the turbo (US model) that goes bad or doesn't get enough vaccuum due to a cracked line. You can barely reach the vane actuator lever and see if it moves freely. If it doesn't, it won't get full boost.

 

[Btownpreacher]

Thanks for the info. Water pump was changed and the glow plugs were all intact when I changed them. I don’t know about the rockers, is there a way to check them externally? The bottom of the intake hose is pretty bad but it’s still on the turbo. I’ll see if I can check the variable vane lever. When I disconnect the vacuum line from the turbo it is holding vacuum tho.

 

[Btownpreacher]

The rattle could be lifters and/or worn cams. For the running issues have you cleaned the MAP sensor recently? A dirty or faulty MAP will kill the performance.

Yes I’ve cleaned the map, and it’s only at 138,000 I’ve had it for 25k and it’s got maintenance records for it’s whole life. Obviously it’s not impossible, but it’s weird that a maintained low mileage would have major failures when there’s high mileage models intact. Is there any way to check the cams or rockers?

 

[KJowner]

Yes I’ve cleaned the map, and it’s only at 138,000 I’ve had it for 25k and it’s got maintenance records for it’s whole life. Obviously it’s not impossible, but it’s weird that a maintained low mileage would have major failures when there’s high mileage models intact. Is there any way to check the cams or rockers?

I have a stethoscope with a probe on it to check where noises come from on engines, probing the engine locates the area to strip and investigate.
Just a thought before you do anything else its worth removing the drive belt and running the engine to see if the noise stops.

 

[Btownpreacher]

I’ve tried a stethoscope, not sure how good it was, but it was really hard to hear over the injectors. Standing in front of the car, it sounds like it’s coming from the front of the engine and it’s really loud. When I use the stethoscope, all I can hear is a small clink compared to the pop from the injectors. I work on cars for a living and my shop mechanic has helped me the best that he can; he’s done a million gas cars in the last thirty years, but he doesn’t know anything about my diesel. Basically he recommended pulling the valve cover to inspect cams and rockers, but vm motor I made that a fun project. I’m really hesitant to pull the cams and cover out, but that would certainly clear up the valve train question.

 

[Btownpreacher]

I’ll try running it without the belt, but I’ve replaced all of the serpentine pulleys and belt when I did the timing job. Who knows

 

[KJowner]

I’ll try running it without the belt, but I’ve replaced all of the serpentine pulleys and belt when I did the timing job. Who knows

You could be lucky, the pully on my viscous heater is noisy, I'm going to pull it off and see what's going on when the weather is warmer.
I agree the valve train looks like a bit of a fiddle to work on, I'm a mechanic too but gas production platforms are my normal line of work with significantly larger diesels!

 

[Btownpreacher]

What does the viscous heater do? I’ve never heard of one before the liberty and I haven’t researched it yet. I’ve seen people delete them too, what’s the significance of the delete? I thought about it today, and the noise is more of a random clinking/clanking. There’s no rhythm or consistency, and it tends to go away after driving for a bit. Doesn’t seem to be anything consistent or rotational wear. Could be something random. If the balance was lost on the crank pulley could that cause a noise?

 

[turblediesel]

Wwdiesel has a viscous heater delete kit. Basically a bracket with a pulley.

The camifold removal is a hassle. I'd try to leave it alone since your noise is in the front of the engine. How's your harmonic balancer? They go bad on these engines and aren't easy to find new. The bottom ends of these engines aren't usually a problem unless loose parts came down from above. Check Olypopper's threads relating to his "carnage enseñata".

 

[turblediesel]

The viscous heater supposedly creates heat. Theoretical heat like a VW bus defroster. Eventually they create broken parts and noises when the bearings or electric clutch go bad.

 

[Btownpreacher]

Great, more stuff I have to buy…..
My shopping list is getting very long.

 

[Btownpreacher]

I cold started this morning around 36 degrees. I tried to video so perhaps you could hear the noise. Of course it was quieter than usual. Idk how to upload it tho

 

[Steve777]

It is a bit late (would have been easy while you were doing the tbelt), but you can do a quick check if all the valves/lifters are working when the timing belt is off. Have the crank in it's "locked" position so that all the pistons are half way up and plenty of room for the valves to come down. Then rotate each of the cam shafts by hand (with a wrench on the sprocket bolt) thru a complete rotation or two. This will exercise all the valves on that cam. You are feeling to see if the pressure/force is equal as you go thru each cylinder. They should all feel the same. If one, or more, are much easier then you've likely lost a lifter on that cyl.

This is a quick sanity check on the condition of the lifters/cams/valves. It's not absolute but if you find any weak cylinders you will know something is wrong. It may save you pulling the intake/cam cover.

 

[WWDiesel]

What does the viscous heater do? I’ve never heard of one before the liberty and I haven’t researched it yet. I’ve seen people delete them too, what’s the significance of the delete? I thought about it today, and the noise is more of a random clinking/clanking. There’s no rhythm or consistency, and it tends to go away after driving for a bit. Doesn’t seem to be anything consistent or rotational wear. Could be something random. If the balance was lost on the crank pulley could that cause a noise?

I have some viscous heater delete kits available, message me if interested.

 

[Btownpreacher]

Took the accessory belt off and still had the noise. Almost thought that it was the steering pump but it didn’t go away

 

[KJowner]

That's a shame, looks like time to pull the cam carrier off.

 

[Btownpreacher]

New idea. Go ahead and roast me now, because I don’t know the correct terminology for this valve train. The rockers have some kind of hydraulic component to them. I’ve heard different words used to reference them so whatever they are called. I’ve heard some say that they aren’t fluid filled but rely on the engine oil. Regardless, if the hydraulic ram on the rocker collapses couldn’t that cause a metallic chatter from the rocker? The noise goes away with load, about 1000rpm, or after the engine has run and warmed up fully. This would allow the engine to still run but could explain the metallic sound.

 

[Btownpreacher]

That's a shame, looks like time to pull the cam carrier off.

I reeeally want to. But if I do that then I have to pull the head, get the valves checked, stud it with a new head gasket, machine the manifold, and probably get new injectors. All because while you’re in there you do it all.