profdlp
Fired
I would imagine I need an electrical parts store for the conduit nuts. What size am I after?
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2 inch at lowes,home depot places like that .
Three per side max.= 3/4 inch of lift
Gyro
Post up your final list. Going through all these posts is a doozy!
Are those rear shocks right? Seems odd to use YJ spec ones since those weigh 2/3s of what a KJ weighs. Thought we used Dakota Quad cab/ Durango rear shocks.
Yes they are
They're just more narrow than the shock mount we have
That's why you throw the bushing kit on top and a washer on each side of the lower shock (which all come with the kit from JBA) and you're done
I have them on mine and they're great
Wow never knew that
Back when I ran Bilsteins I didn't use a bushing kit, just torqued them down and the "frame" tabs conformed to them:gr_grin: Or, you could just use some plain old washers, make your own bushing.
They have several to pick from:Are you still going with the Y-link extension?
Also, everything you have in your parts list is all you need except the bushing kit for your rear shocks which you'll need from JBA...
I think I will order four of them anyway, though I think your advice makes sense. The main reason is that they are only $25 a pair and they will give me the flexibility to adjust things here and there if I need to. Despite my many questions, I have read a lot of lift threads and seem to recall a lot of people coming back after they are done wondering why things aren't level, or something like that. For little stuff where there is some debate as to how many to use, having a couple spares won't bother me as long as they are not outrageously expensive.The other thing I noticed was you have "Need 4" for your upper iso's
If you're using the OME springs and only adding 3 ring clevis then one upper iso per side will have you sit level
If you're adding top plate (which you have listed in your parts and are 1/4" thick giving you 1/2" of lift) then I would stick with one ring per side
If you're really wanting that extra 1/4" then maybe at the MOST two rings and that would have you sit at about 3 1/2" lift wheel-fender once settled in the front
Then, if you choose to get only one iso per side then the rear would sit at about 3 1/4" which, IMO, looks better to have the front slightly higher than the rear than vice-versa if it's not level
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong because if I am then I need to get me some top plates :happy175:
Do they seem like a stiff enough shock?
They have several to pick from:
http://jeepinbyal.com/liberty-2002-2007-kj/ball-joints-and-bushings.html
Which ones do I need?
I think I will order four of them anyway, though I think your advice makes sense. The main reason is that they are only $25 a pair and they will give me the flexibility to adjust things here and there if I need to. Despite my many questions, I have read a lot of lift threads and seem to recall a lot of people coming back after they are done wondering why things aren't level, or something like that. For little stuff where there is some debate as to how many to use, having a couple spares won't bother me as long as they are not outrageously expensive.
Thanks! The link was not obvious and if it hadn't been for your instructions I would have never even known that it was there.To your question:
What you're going to want to do is click on the Bilstein shocks for a 2.5" lift
Then you'll scroll to the bottom of the description where it explains that you need the bushing kit
There's a link you click on where it says "One kit per pair of shocks"
Order that part :waytogo:
Yeah, we've all had those jobs where we wished we had one more 2x4 or another box of screws. There's an old theory that no job can ever be completed until you make your third trip to the hardware store... :happy175:And also, I agree that it's better to have more than less so get whatever you'd like!
That way if you want to go higher in the future all you have to do is throw those in there
I've sat damn near level all around after lifting so you'll just have to wait and see
Wow never knew that
Back when I ran Bilsteins I didn't use a bushing kit, just torqued them down and the "frame" tabs conformed to them:gr_grin: Or, you could just use some plain old washers, make your own bushing.
They are definitely stiff enough
From what I've read, the one shock that feels even stiffer are the Sensa-Tracs
That'd be way too stiff for my liking
Whenever I hit a bump, big or small, I have little to no bounce at all
When I was installing them, it would take almost all of my strength to compress them to align with the lower shock mount hole
This is what I did (with the upper shock mounted already but not torqued yet):
I found it easier to just put a washer on, slide a long screwdriver through it and the shock hole and pry it up where it aligns
Then, throw my other washer on and slide the bolt through
Kind of confusing but basically once you get to the point where you have the end of the bolt touching the screwdriver head and washers on each side, you push the bolt in and screwdriver out at the same time so it stays aligned the whole time
There may be an easier way but that's what I found helped me