DWM Seeks AJP For Wild Weekend, Maybe More

[jeeplib05]

Don't need a compressor for anything in my experience
Jack up rear by putting the jack under the diff, put in your jack stands, remove rear sway bar and the axle will lower far enough for the springs to fall out
If need be, step on the rotor and the spring will fall right out
Put you upper iso in, drill hole in spring perch
Put the jack on the opposite side of the axle you're working on, jack it up until the axle on your side drops down to its lowest point (too far and it'll start to move the whole axle back up) step on the rotor and throw in the new springs
It might take some jiggling and another person helping for this part would be great, but it'll go in
Do the same to the other side
Throw in your pucks and tighten them down, put the shocks on and done

 

[profdlp]

I woulda never given these people the chance you did.

I called a few other places and was told that they didn't do spring compressing. I'm sure some of them actually do, but don't want to get involved with customers bringing in their own parts.

I knew they were incompetent, I just figured this would be hard to mess up.

Anyway... are you keeping the first post up to date on the parts list?...

It is now. I hadn't added the front strut mounts and extra isolators as I was originally going to use my old ones. They added about $100 to the total, but meant that I didn't have to have the Jeep apart for several days waiting for the compression to be done. Plus, all brand-new parts are always nice when you're doing something major.

I've been waiting three years. Good luck when you get yours done!

 

[profdlp]

...One tip on the rear- rent some spring compressors...

Are the typical chain stores likely to have these for rent? Any particular type or style to ask for?

...another person helping for this part would be great, but it'll go in...

I really wish I had some help. Lots of times just having someone hanging around and rooting you on is a big help.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Don't need a compressor for anything in my experience
Jack up rear by putting the jack under the diff, put in your jack stands, remove rear sway bar and the axle will lower far enough for the springs to fall out
If need be, step on the rotor and the spring will fall right out
Put you upper iso in, drill hole in spring perch
Put the jack on the opposite side of the axle you're working on, jack it up until the axle on your side drops down to its lowest point (too far and it'll start to move the whole axle back up) step on the rotor and throw in the new springs
It might take some jiggling and another person helping for this part would be great, but it'll go in
Do the same to the other side
Throw in your pucks and tighten them down, put the shocks on and done

That's a good way to do it too. I didn't touch my sway bar though.

Are the typical chain stores likely to have these for rent? Any particular type or style to ask for?


I really wish I had some help. Lots of times just having someone hanging around and rooting you on is a big help.

Wish I was closer...I thought Ohio was the state of lift parties? :gr_grin:

And any auto part store that rents tools should have them. Oreilly's, autozone, advance, etc

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[jeeplib05]

I just did it that way because you don't need the sway bar anyhow
Figured I'd just remove it and also not have to go rent a compressor

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Actually "renting" is a misnomer, it's free lol.

 

[profdlp]

Any trouble getting the sway bar back on if you go that route?

Here's another: Everyone seems to have a different idea of how many conduit nuts to use. I'm using two isolators in the back. Are three conduit nuts up fronts likely to leave me sitting level?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I don't think you would have any issues getting it back on if the rear axle is level.

And not sure on the conduit nuts. 3 sounds right.

 

[jeeplib05]

Any trouble getting the sway bar back on if you go that route?

Here's another: Everyone seems to have a different idea of how many conduit nuts to use. I'm using two isolators in the back. Are three conduit nuts up fronts likely to leave me sitting level?

Not a problem getting it back on at all, slide it in how you got it out

Aren't you still using your top plates?
If so those give you 1/2" of lift alone
3 rings will have you sit level if using two rear iso's, I think 22 3/4" or 3 3/4" lift
I have 3 up front and one rear iso and I sit level at 22 1/4" or 3 1/4" of lift on all 4 sides

 

[profdlp]

Not a problem getting it back on at all, slide it in how you got it out

Aren't you still using your top plates?
If so those give you 1/2" of lift alone
I'd actually use 3 rings so the front is higher, looks better IMO
I have 3 up front and one rear iso and I sit level at 22 1/4" or 3 1/4" of lift on all 4 sides

Yes, the top plates will be going on there.

I have the two isolators for each side on the rear. Just stack them on top? How's that work?

If you have three conduit nuts and only one rear isolator, yet are still level, I think I'd better go with three conduit nuts for sure then.

ADDED: What type of bolt for the hockey pucks?

 

[jeeplib05]

Yes, the top plates will be going on there.

I have the two isolators for each side on the rear. Just stack them on top? How's that work?

If you have three conduit nuts and only one rear isolator, yet are still level, I think I'd better go with three conduit nuts for sure then.

I was confusing myself with the measurements..
Refer to my updated reply
What I corrected is the actual amount of lift you'll be at front and rear
Sorry about that!

But yes you'll see where the stock upper iso is, you just stack the two new ones and push them up in there and they'll stay in
Then drill your hole in the perch and put your springs in!

 

[KJ604]

to me, two extra iso in the rear looks like it keeps the rake the same as stock. a little higher in the back than in the front. one extra iso in the rear makes it look like it sits level

 

[tommudd]

Are the typical chain stores likely to have these for rent? Any particular type or style to ask for?


I really wish I had some help. Lots of times just having someone hanging around and rooting you on is a big help.

Dont need spring compressors for the rear have never used any

 

[tommudd]

Any trouble getting the sway bar back on if you go that route?

Here's another: Everyone seems to have a different idea of how many conduit nuts to use. I'm using two isolators in the back. Are three conduit nuts up fronts likely to leave me sitting level?

With top plate use 3/8 inch clevis ( 3 conduit nuts) per side to make it level with two extra upper iso's in the back.
After you remove the old spring new isolators just slide up on where the original one is

 

[profdlp]

With top plate use 3/8 inch clevis ( 3 conduit nuts) per side to make it level with two extra upper iso's in the back.

Gotcha.

After you remove the old spring new isolators just slide up on where the original one is

...you just stack the two new ones and push them up in there and they'll stay in...

Does the old one come out with the old springs? Or do you leave it there and add two more?

I know these are a lot of questions. I'm hoping to do this just once.

 

[tommudd]

Yes, the top plates will be going on there.

I have the two isolators for each side on the rear. Just stack them on top? How's that work?

If you have three conduit nuts and only one rear isolator, yet are still level, I think I'd better go with three conduit nuts for sure then.

ADDED: What type of bolt for the hockey pucks?

I just use a 3/8 inch bolt, regular bolt, with 2 per side use a bolt that is 2.25 inches long or 2.5 inches , washer on top and bottom. Some have used carriage bolts but they are a huge PITA if you ever have to remove them

 

[tommudd]

Does the old one come out with the old springs?

I know these are a lot of questions. I'm hoping to do this just once.

There is a lip that hold them into place, you'll see when you remove the spring

 

[tommudd]

Little trick that some/ many don't know to do, but
on the drivers side front don't bring the shock down tight against the conduit nuts leave just a bit loose, passenger side bring all the way down
KJs and KKs always sit down a bit on the drivers side so we always let the drivers side up just a bit to compensate for that so its perfectly level when it settles in good

 

[tommudd]

Gotcha.



Does the old one come out with the old springs? Or do you leave it there and add two more?

I know these are a lot of questions. I'm hoping to do this just once.

Just once is no fun at all
Bet the 04 was taken apart and things changed/ added / combined/ removed/ replaced "at least" 55-60 times

 

[tommudd]

Just remove and toss the rear sway bar, does nothing and makes it harder to install the springs, I just threw 4 away a few weeks ago from various builds

PM you my cell phone number in case you have questions