Fram Filters, junk???

[ridenby]

I dont plan to change so dont bother disputing me on this

Amen

 

[Powerslave]

maybe? maybe not? it depends how much column pressure is on the filter? and we don't know that! mike

True, but when I removed the old filters, BOTH times? They were completely full. I don't think there would be more than a few table-spoons of drain-back IF there was a valve failure, or no valve at all. However, if the VALVE works, then there is no drain-back anyway, and I still had the full oil filter.

This FL-1A does saturate well, I was slightly low in oil, I checked yesterday. I added some Lucas Synthetic.

I also stopped a leak in the power steering hose, I wrapped it with that new rubber tape stuff that you PULL tight as you wrap it. I ran it 60+ miles today, there was no fluid on the hose, or on top of the patch job. There is another leak though, dripping from the bottom of the front DIFF, it's also from the power steering lines, somewhere... I got one patched up for now, got to find the other one. This stuff is supposed to hold back a lot of pressure. I used it on my gas boiler main hot water output line, and it worked, so I figured I would try it on the PS pump line... Works FOR NOW...

 

[Powerslave]

Update: On my way to work today, stopping at a traffic light, the oil light came on again at idle. I took it out of gear, it went out when the RPMs went up.

What is was? The FL-1A filter did not seat properly, and it was leaking! I just changed to back to the Fram 3600. When I removed the FL-1A filter, and I could see where the oil was leaking outward from the seal. There was some gunk build up just outside the seal on the filter ring edge (where it burned a little). So, maybe it was a bad seal, but still, that was my leak! I thought it was PS fluid, but, it hasn't dropped level on me, and it didn't smell like ATF+3 either... I use Synthetic oil, so it didn't smell conventional motor oil either, and it was just done, so it wasn't gas smelly...

If it still leaks from up there, then it's a more serious problem...

SO, we'll see if this stops the leak, and oil light...

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I just bought a Purealator 1 filter last night. We'll see how it goes, I'm doing the oil change next weekend. My Motorcraft in it seems pretty good.

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

Update: On my way to work today, stopping at a traffic light, the oil light came on again at idle. I took it out of gear, it went out when the RPMs went up.

What is was? The FL-1A filter did not seat properly, and it was leaking! I just changed to back to the Fram 3600. When I removed the FL-1A filter, and I could see where the oil was leaking outward from the seal. There was some gunk build up just outside the seal on the filter ring edge (where it burned a little). So, maybe it was a bad seal, but still, that was my leak! I thought it was PS fluid, but, it hasn't dropped level on me, and it didn't smell like ATF+3 either... I use Synthetic oil, so it didn't smell conventional motor oil either, and it was just done, so it wasn't gas smelly...

If it still leaks from up there, then it's a more serious problem...

SO, we'll see if this stops the leak, and oil light...

I had that problem with my old Chrysler Cirrus' 2.5L V6. It was the oil sending unit. If it continues check that.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Very common on all cars

 

[Powerslave]

I had that problem with my old Chrysler Cirrus' 2.5L V6. It was the oil sending unit. If it continues check that.

The 2.5 Cirrus is a Mitsubishi 6G73 engine (Under-bored 3.0)... I had 2000 a LXi, they ride and perform nice, more take off than the Avenger, and it's the same drivetrain. If I was to keep the Avenger, I was going to put a 3.0 in it. You don't have to change much at all. Just some minor cutting for the exhaust, and you need the 2.5 Distributor, that's it. OR, just put the 3.0 LOW end in, and use your 2.5 heads and everything else... Been done so many times, a lot of people at ASEC and ASOG have done it, it's nice...

ANYHOW, Yeah, even with the 3600 filter I changed it to, it came on again at 1100RPM idle... I make sure to look at the temperature gauge when the oil light comes on, to be sure it doesn't start to rise. IT stays at the same position at all times, just before half. If there was low pressure, LOW ENOUGH, the engine would heat up, and it's not.

 

[tjkj2002]

The min oil pressure for the 3.7 is around 3psi at or around idle.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

The 2.5 Cirrus is a Mitsubishi 6G73 engine (Under-bored 3.0)... I had 2000 a LXi, they ride and perform nice, more take off than the Avenger, and it's the same drivetrain. If I was to keep the Avenger, I was going to put a 3.0 in it. You don't have to change much at all. Just some minor cutting for the exhaust, and you need the 2.5 Distributor, that's it. OR, just put the 3.0 LOW end in, and use your 2.5 heads and everything else... Been done so many times, a lot of people at ASEC and ASOG have done it, it's nice...

ANYHOW, Yeah, even with the 3600 filter I changed it to, it came on again at 1100RPM idle... I make sure to look at the temperature gauge when the oil light comes on, to be sure it doesn't start to rise. IT stays at the same position at all times, just before half. If there was low pressure, LOW ENOUGH, the engine would heat up, and it's not.

.... yes. The same engine. Only slightly less oil burning.

Dang Mitsubishi 6G73 valve seals!!! But I swear that is one of the sweetest sounding V6s ever!!!!

 

[Powerslave]

Oil light came on this morning, twice, but that was it. I idle at about 550 RPMS, 600 tops, and the light came on with the beep. Just got in a bit ago, when I leave for the road, I will check the oil leak. Maybe it's coming from the sending unit...

 

[sleeve]

If the light keeps coming on like that, it's probably a faulty oil pressure sensor. Located above the oil filter.. Swap in a new one and the light will more than likely stop activating.

 

[Powerslave]

If the light keeps coming on like that, it's probably a faulty oil pressure sensor. Located above the oil filter.. Swap in a new one and the light will more than likely stop activating.

I think that's where the oil leak is too. I went to Advance Auto, they don't, and said CAN'T get them. Plus, if it's covered under my powertrain warranty, then it's back to the dealer...

Marlon_JB2: My 6g73 never burned oil, I used synthetic since the day I took it off the showroom floor in August of 2000 - the LAST Avenger in the area. The one in my Cirrus did not either, BUT, both leaked from the OIL cap, and the front bank right cam seal. The rocker is right under the oil cap, and the HOLE where the oil squirts out is practically aimed right at the fill. Take your oil cap off, and rev the motor, oil shoots out! Funny... I loved the car, did NOT want to get rid of it, but there was too much TLC in restoring it (Time, Lots of Cash) - Body wise... Could not get the valve covers off, so the valley sealed leaked, but I sealed them with melted electrical tape... Ran like new, even at 150+K miles on it... Blew the warranty in less than two years. Took it to Florida two months after buying it... I put about 23K miles a year on it...

 

[Powerslave]

The oil light condition is getting worse, it comes on all the time when I come to a stop, at 600RPM. If I raise the RPM, it goes off. No temperature change; so it's on to the Chrysler dealer... Can't see where the oil leak is either, hope it's not a head gasket, 'cause I will be without a car till they fix it, and motorcycling in this weather is out of the question. Guess it's the company car for a while...

 

[Idaho08KK]

Fram filters are junk, pure and simple. They have poor filter material, and are poorly constructed.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I'll continue to use Fram oil filters...
Like I said before, never had a problem with them.
Even in a full race Mini engine.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

YOUR 6G73 never burned oil, but the 6G72 (mostly, '80s and '90s) has a REPUTATION for burning oil. Sorry, my mistake, that's what I meant.... 6G72.

Valve seals are the issue, it's not a real problem, such as rings or anything...

Funny you mentioned oil leaking from the cap, because my sister's 4G15 used to do the same thing....

 

[Atrus]

My '91 3.0L that was in my Daytona always puffed a little smoke due to bad valve seals. Had the heads completely rebuilt and within 10k they were at it again.

 

[Powerslave]

You can stick a set of 6G73 heads on the 72, they are the same block. There is only a TAD difference in cam profile between the two heads. A 3.0 will fit in any car that has the 2.5, with little modification (cutting) for the header "down" pipes, and you need the 2.5 Distributor. ALL the electronics, sensors and harnesses will hook up with no fouls by the ECM. Many Avenger owners switched to the 3.0. What they could not do was the MANUAL trans swap... There was even a person that did a rear wheel conversion...

I prayed my motor would blow so I could swap in a 3.0, nope, wouldn't happen... Even if you keep it in 1st gear, and step on it? As soon as it tacs at 6200, it shifts into second... I was very impressed with the mechanics of the car, with the Nascar inspired double wishbone independent rear and front suspension. I just did not want to spend 3500 on rear rockers, and floor. I went to jack the car up, on the driver side rear, where you're supposed to? Jack went through the metal, all rusted out. That is a common rust area for the Avenger and Sebring non convertible.

What I would take if I can get is a Stealth TT, or a 95-97 Viper.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

I was just following a 6G72 home... in a Dodge Shadow ES.

You guessed it... puffing blue smoke the whole way.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

ThunderbirdJunkie would have liked his Montero were it not for that wretched 6G72