Fram Filters, junk???

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tjkj2002

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I prayed my motor would blow so I could swap in a 3.0, nope, wouldn't happen... Even if you keep it in 1st gear, and step on it? As soon as it tacs at 6200, it shifts into second... I was very impressed with the mechanics of the car, with the Nascar inspired double wishbone independent rear and front suspension.
You had a McPherson strut front suspension and a multilink rear,neither is NASCAR inspired.NASCAR uses mid '70's era Chevy truck arm rear suspension.
 

Powerslave

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Dodge says it is a Nascar "INSPIRED" suspension. It is DOUBLE WISHBONE, fully independent suspension. You like to Argue, and boy do I get that, but you're wrong, I owned one for 9 years. You can do the research yourself, google and yahoo provide excellent interfaces for this. Also, I hope you are not referring to the 2007 and up models, because they ARE different than the 1995 to 2000.

Each side up front has four ball joints: Upper control arm, Compression arm, Lower Latteral, and tie-rod end. You can use a strut cartridge for replacement, or assembly. They are not using McPherson ANYTHING, and there is no bearing cap, the struts to not turn with steering.

Here are the suspension specifications for the 95-00 models:
Handling and Control:
Front-wheel drive
Front double wishbone suspension
Front anti-roll bar
Coil front springs
Double wishbone rear suspension
Coil rear springs
Rack & pinion steering
4 wheel disc brakes
Front vented disc brakes

Wishbone components/parts are painted in YELLOW:
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That, is what the 95-00 has; NOT MCPHERSON or MULTI-LINK.
Rear suspension was the SAME, except no drive axles.

What is Double wishbone suspension? - NOT MULTI-LINK, that's for sure.
This independent suspension uses wishbone shaped upper and lower arms to locate the wheels Camber, the degree to which the wheels tilt in and out, can be precisely controlled.

The double wishbone design provides superior ride and handling characteristics. It is an independent system that allows either wheel to react to road imperfections with minimal effect on the opposite wheel.

FINALLY, you could not be more than 100% wrong. You were probably going by the later models. The 95-00 ES models add 17" tires, REAR sway-bar, and V6 engine until 1997; where they all had a V6; and then the ES models add the 17" tires, and rear sway-bar. I had the 2000 ES, the last year for the Avenger. It was brought back in Feb 2007(?), as a completely different platform, which has a different suspension; more like the Charger.
 
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Redbone

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Not even CLOSE to the setup used in the rear of Sprint Cup cars. Well .... on 2nd thought they both qualify as "suspension".

To say front is NASCAR inspired ..... I'd have to say everything not straight axle is NASCAR inspired. My GMC is NASCAR inspired because it has the same layout as in the pitchur but no little axle thingie poking through it.rollinglaugh.gif
 

Redbone

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At any rate, i'm not changing after this many years!

Back to filters.

Not trying to get anyone to change. Just stating facts. I won't change either. I'd rather run an empty can.

I consider 3 things when buying filters - construction, flow rate, & filtration. Nobody will change my parameters.

On the point someone made earlier that they had been using them and so did their dad. My dad got over 100,000 miles on his '57 Chevy, the only vehicle he kept that long. He changed his oil regularly and used nothing but Shell 30w high detergent. I suppose I should switch to Shell 30w hd. worked for him!;)

My son uses nothing AC Delco on his 1k h.p. Camaro (Melling high flow pump). He needs good clean oil to feed the turbo. He says if it's good enough for GM it's for him. He's a Mech. Eng. so I don't argue.

NOTE: In defense of a claim made earlier the only Fram oil filters I have seen blow apart (can seperated from base) was on engines with problems that would blow up ANY filter. I'm glad it blew up on us. An important clue.
 

Redbone

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True, but when I removed the old filters, BOTH times? They were completely full. I don't think there would be more than a few table-spoons of drain-back IF there was a valve failure, or no valve at all. However, if the VALVE works, then there is no drain-back anyway, and I still had the full oil filter.

This FL-1A does saturate well, I was slightly low in oil, I checked yesterday. I added some Lucas Synthetic.

I also stopped a leak in the power steering hose, I wrapped it with that new rubber tape stuff that you PULL tight as you wrap it. I ran it 60+ miles today, there was no fluid on the hose, or on top of the patch job. There is another leak though, dripping from the bottom of the front DIFF, it's also from the power steering lines, somewhere... I got one patched up for now, got to find the other one. This stuff is supposed to hold back a lot of pressure. I used it on my gas boiler main hot water output line, and it worked, so I figured I would try it on the PS pump line... Works FOR NOW...

I think I missed something but this entry popped up about an oil pressure problem. threadjacked.gif Oh well, not my thread. I read through the rest of the details on this I think. First of all it IS NOT a problem of some oil filter or incremental leak. Without an oil pressure guage it is hard to diagnose. With one it is still hard. Possibles that come to mind - faulty sending unit (u better hope it is this), faulty oil pump/internal pressure regular, too much clearance on main bearings to name a few. I experienced all 3 at one time or another. Good luck.
 

tommudd

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Reading through this is like a birthday party I went to when my neice was 13. Three groups of 13 year old girls talking about different things and each trying to out talk the other 2 groups.:D

What was this topic about again??:confused::confused:

Talk about going off base, I think this went off planet:eek::rolleyes::D:D:D:D

Ok back to ....oh yes oil filters
 

kj924

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So it wouldn't take much to throw the light on at idle either.

I had an '89 Chev K1500 1/2 ton with a 350 that would do the same thing..oil light on at idle(in gear) and I replaced the oil pump along with a rusted out basepan, and the oil light still came on. :eek:
 

sleeve

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Right. The FL1 probably did not cause that to happen.

It's just a failure mode for that sensor... Sort of a common problem on these guys
 

Dave

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Oh, look. I found the "infamous Fram Filters" thread...........Now that I have taken my waders off, Let me say this about that.

Fram Filters, yeah I used more of them than I could count on different vehicles. Never had one cause any problems. Never had a blown engine cause the g-string holding it together fell off.......nothing...... No drama....... But that said, I have not used one in a very long time........many years actually. I have heard and even seen filter comparisons that seem to indicate that they are not too good. Maybe they are made different these days. Possibly more cheaply than in the old days. I don't know.


Here's my thought on oil filters. They are an expendable product. Made to be used for one oil change for a limited amount of miles. Some filter better than others. Some have a better anti-drainback valve, etc,etc. But if you change the filter (and use any name-brand quality oil) on a regular basis, I'll bet you could get away with almost any brand of filter.

Dave
 

Powerslave

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The subject on oil pressure was brought up by me, because of the FL-1A filter I was using. Could not CRAPPY filters be a problem? IT was on subject... It was fine when I bought the Jeep, then I used a FRAM 3600 with the 1st oil change. IT was ok, even after the trip to Missouri (but where the ESP stuff started). The light didn't come on till I did a 2nd change, using the FL-1A, so, I figured an incompatibility of outer hole placement, or restrictive, and thought it was leaking. So, I changed back to the 3600 yesterday, it got WORSE. The oil light was on the entire ride to the office today. I carefully monitored the temp gauge, it did NOT move a hair, so it is not dangerous yet. I even pulled over to check the oil level, and the leak area, all was ok. It is an oil leak though, AND I thought it was coming from a CRAPPY filter seal, still on subject. On the way home, it only came on at idle again, so it's got to be the sending unit...

SO, I will just have to take it back to the Dealer for Warranty under Powertrain...

TonyCDR; About the hobby thing? I am not the one that starts this crap, it's them. I made a comment on My prior vehicles suspension, then he tells me what suspension it HAS, matter of factly? No dude, he's completely wrong, and he did not even have to comment, He CHOSE to, to make another issue, without a lick of research. I commented, he chose to smash it, and he's wrong on top of it; 100% in fact; and I had to prove it, and did so QUITE nicely, and correctly. Makes you question the reliability of prior, and future information from people, when they can be wrong so many times. I won't take a word he, oe the OTHER one, says into consideration, EVER, not after this latest lie, to try and start another fight. If you notice, it's only TWO people that are doing the antagonizing, and I refuse to sit back and allow it. If we were in a bar, it would be no different, arguing, and carrying on, but I could at least THEN, take him outside to SHOW him the suspension, if there was one in the lot.. Then the making me a grease stain threat from the other one, so, hey, I am not being VULGAR, or threatening people. My words are just put together the way they are... If people read them as hostile, then they need to see a shrink, because when you read, your own voice is the sound you here, not mine, so I don't have the problem.
 

Redbone

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WOW! Dude, chill. I'm not antagonizing anyone. If I really get started u gonna wig out! I'm discussing. I didn't see the oil filter/oil press. connection.

On that subject, the oil filter cannot be causing the problem u have ... but whatever if u gonna go all ballistic I'll b glad 2 let u go ur on way. AND b sure to continue to drive it until u get it figgered out. That iz what the idiot lights r there 4.

NASCAR ... Pretty much originated from shine haulers and the cars of choice. The top level currently is Sprint Cup. I've followed it before people knew who Richard Petty was. All cars that I know of has used the double wishbone front suspension & solid axle in the rear. Currently all cars have coiled springs in the rear. Try this for a start:

http://www.nascar.com/news/features/stock.car.evolution.1/index.html

Pic of NASCAR rearend. Note no wishbones.

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In a discussion we usually make points back and forth in order to learn instead of posting a pic and declaring victory.
 

HoosierJeeper

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Everything and more that need to be said has. This one is done. (lock)
 
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