Front Axle housing Broke....

[JeepJeepster]

Why are you calling it BAS? BAS is different than traction control, which is what keeps the wheels from spinning. BAS looks at how fast and how hard you hit the brake pedal and gives you optimum braking.

Personally Im a firm believer in ESP and traction control both onroad and off. It helps offroad but it doesnt replace a locker or a DTT.

 

[tjkj2002]

Personally Im a firm believer in ESP and traction control both onroad and off. It helps offroad but it doesnt replace a locker or a DTT.

A person needs to learn how to drive without any techno gizmos 1st.Oh and ABS/traction control can be your worst nightmare in some offroad situations and most of all those functions are disablied in 4low anyway.

 

[Powerslave]

I have ESP/BAS, then the separate skid control light. When a wheel starts to spin, the brake is applied to that wheel. When you go into a bend too fast, you get braking assist for anti-skid. When a wheel lifts up off the ground, and starts to spin the brake is applied to that wheel.

Ok, so BAS is part of ESP/BAS, I just used BAS because that's what the MIL has on it. Braking Assist is different than ESP, and also different than Anti-Skid. Sorry for the miss spoke abbreviation...

I put mine in 4-lo, and I saw the system was disabled... So, that won't help in 4-lo, but if it did, I would rather change the pads than a diff housing.

Though, dunno how I could be typing, I died in that ravine, after leaving the mall parking lot.

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

I would rather change a diff housing then die because I didn't have brakes going down a steep hill. To each his own.

Sorry Powerslave but TJKJ has a better point. Death over $$ any day.

FYI ESP still works in 4 LO. 4LO is only partial off.

 

[Powerslave]

How can he have a point when we're talking a wheel, ONE WHEEL lifting up -vs- going down a hill with heated brakes? He totally changed the subject and content of the original post to his liking. You are in no danger of a Diff housing breaking while going down a hill, with both wheels on the ground, it makes no sense; that's no where NEAR what the poster was talking about...

Again, the guy posted, one wheel, count it, ONE WHEEL, then stop there, don't go to two wheels, just ONE! Don't go down the hill and over a ravine, that wasn't the subject either. The guy said ONE wheel lifted up, then the shock of it coming back down and gripping, broke the housing. I said, with ESP/BAS that would not have happened, as that LIFTED SINGLE WHEEL would have already stopped spinning, or slowed down to a point where no damage would have occurred when it came back down to grip the road. Where was this hill, overheated brakes, and ravine at?

Then now, all of the sudden, yeah, we're barreling down a hill, with heated brakes (as if THAT would not happen NORMALLY), into a ravine, and dieing. Also, I go down a LARGE hill every day, and ride the brakes ALL THW WAY down, they're fine, I stop at the bottom where the light is. If these brakes could not handle the weight of the 4500lb brick they're stopping, then we'd have some SEVERE problems out there, wouldn't we? EVERYONE would be flying off into ravines, and dieing every day...

Ok, so ESP/BAS heats the brakes? So, when I press the, "brake" pedal, with my foot, they don't heat up? Yeah, ok.... Point is, it's not the original subject, and brakes heat up any-time you want to stop, that's why they WEAR. ESP/BAS won't heat them up any more or less then when YOU manually apply the brakes when, oh, I dunno; going DOWN A HILL?

ESP/BAS kicking in for ONE spinning wheel, is not going to heat IT (not them) up to a point of danger, because the wheel will come to stop, or spin slow, and they are PULSED, not applied like you put your foot on the brakes. Then, once that wheel grips the road again, and say there's a hill fast approaching with a dangerous ravine, then you have THREE other wheels at normal operating temperature... I mean, how do you go from what the POSTER said, to overheated front BRAKES (plural) and dying in a ravine, I mean, REALLY?

 

[tjkj2002]

How can he have a point when we're talking a wheel, ONE WHEEL lifting up -vs- going down a hill with heated brakes? He totally changed the subject and content of the original post to his liking. You are in no danger of a Diff housing breaking while going down a hill, with both wheels on the ground, it makes no sense; that's no where NEAR what the poster was talking about...

Again, the guy posted, one wheel, count it, ONE WHEEL, then stop there, don't go to two wheels, just ONE! Don't go down the hill and over a ravine, that wasn't the subject either. The guy said ONE wheel lifted up, then the shock of it coming back down and gripping, broke the housing. I said, with ESP/BAS that would not have happened, as that LIFTED SINGLE WHEEL would have already stopped spinning, or slowed down to a point where no damage would have occurred when it came back down to grip the road. Where was this hill, overheated brakes, and ravine at?

Then now, all of the sudden, yeah, we're barreling down a hill, with heated brakes (as if THAT would not happen NORMALLY), into a ravine, and dieing. Also, I go down a LARGE hill every day, and ride the brakes ALL THW WAY down, they're fine, I stop at the bottom where the light is. If these brakes could not handle the weight of the 4500lb brick they're stopping, then we'd have some SEVERE problems out there, wouldn't we? EVERYONE would be flying off into ravines, and dieing every day...

Ok, so ESP/BAS heats the brakes? So, when I press the, "brake" pedal, with my foot, they don't heat up? Yeah, ok.... Point is, it's not the original subject, and brakes heat up any-time you want to stop, that's why they WEAR. ESP/BAS won't heat them up any more or less then when YOU manually apply the brakes when, oh, I dunno; going DOWN A HILL?

ESP/BAS kicking in for ONE spinning wheel, is not going to heat IT (not them) up to a point of danger, because the wheel will come to stop, or spin slow, and they are PULSED, not applied like you put your foot on the brakes. Then, once that wheel grips the road again, and say there's a hill fast approaching with a dangerous ravine, then you have THREE other wheels at normal operating temperature... I mean, how do you go from what the POSTER said, to overheated front BRAKES (plural) and dying in a ravine, I mean, REALLY?

You stated you would rather change brakes pads then replace a diff,i just pointed out that real wheeling(which you do not have a clue about) with just ESP/traction control can and will overheat your brakes(they will on trails I run) and then if you have a nice downgrade that your SOL with overheated brakes that do not work great or at all since your traveling only about 2-3mph and they do not cool down very fast.Sure you use your brakes when wheeling,even without traction control,but not as near as much as you would when the vehicle likes to apply the brakes at will to keep a airborne wheel from free wheeling.


It was just a senerio (that I often run into wheeling) and get over it and try wheeling yours hard for 2-3 hours and see how well your brakes work,then pull the ABS fuse and do it all over again and a guarantee your brakes will feel better after the same wheeling without the brakes self applying.


You ate alot of crayons when you where young didn't you?

 

[Powerslave]

Overheated brakes? Well, then this jeep has a SERIOUS design flaw, and we are all in danger. I had an AVENGER with a way under powered brake system, the rotors were too small for it, at 9.2" when the Eclipse (same basic car) had larger rotors up front, and it's about 4" smaller than the avenger. So, you want to talk HEATED brakes? It never failed to stop...

Overheated brakes, that's a moot point, because your rotors would have to be glowing for it to make that much of a difference, and, be using ORGANIC crap pads. I use metallic pads, and, they STOP... That Avenger needed rotors every year, because they warped from overheating, but, they STOPPED me no matter what, so my Avenger is much better at stopping than the Jeep Liberty, with a crappier system? Good to know, thanks for the heads up. Oh, and the ROTORS overheated, not the brakes... IF your pads over heat, they will crack. Had that happen too, but guess what? It still stopped the vehicle.

REAL wheeling, with ESP/BAS will overheat the brakes? Ok, so everyone, when wheeling, don't use your foot to brake either, that will overheat the brakes, look out!

I will replace the Rotors, Pads, and CALIPERS before a Differential... Overheating, I think you need to REALLY define that....

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

AAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH.

Why must you be so condescending.

 

[tjkj2002]

Overheated brakes? Well, then this jeep has a SERIOUS design flaw, and we are all in danger. I had an AVENGER with a way under powered brake system, the rotors were too small for it, at 9.2" when the Eclipse (same basic car) had larger rotors up front, and it's about 4" smaller than the avenger. So, you want to talk HEATED brakes? It never failed to stop...

Overheated brakes, that's a moot point, because your rotors would have to be glowing for it to make that much of a difference, and, be using ORGANIC crap pads. I use metallic pads, and, they STOP... That Avenger needed rotors every year, because they warped from overheating, but, they STOPPED me no matter what, so my Avenger is much better at stopping than the Jeep Liberty, with a crappier system? Good to know, thanks for the heads up. Oh, and the ROTORS overheated, not the brakes... IF your pads over heat, they will crack. Had that happen too, but guess what? It still stopped the vehicle.

REAL wheeling, with ESP/BAS will overheat the brakes? Ok, so everyone, when wheeling, don't use your foot to brake either, that will overheat the brakes, look out!

I will replace the Rotors, Pads, and CALIPERS before a Differential... Overheating, I think you need to REALLY define that....

Yep you ate to many crayons when you where younger

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

He had says good things about the Mitsubishi 6G engine, that was ThunderbirdJunkie's first clue

 

[Powerslave]

He had says good things about the Mitsubishi 6G engine, that was ThunderbirdJunkie's first clue

Much better than the 3.7L these jeeps have, as far as reliability and durability. The only reason I got rid of it was the Body and tired of the sled in winter.

The fact is, the Japanese, and Germans, make a superior product than any Domestic MFR in this country, that's for sure. I had 150K+ miles on the 6G73, ran like new, with Synthetic all its life. Excellent performance and durability, and the person that has it is happy (finally ran into, to talk to). Even our domestic car MFRs have gone to FOREIGN designs, powertrains, parts; yeah, what a subtle clue that is, that this country can't compete with them, so our domestic car MFRs use their stuff... Sickening...

My Avenger was able to stop with inferior brakes, but this Jeep can't, 'cause they overheat with ESP/BAS? That's just scary man... Makes me want to trade it in for a H3, maybe I should look into that...

I would not want the hassle and time to change a front Diff, -vs- a set of metallic brake pads, ANY DAY... Changing pads is like taking candy from a baby, compared to changing out a differential.

Eating Crayons huh? Better than crow...

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

 

[tommudd]

some people need to sell their Liberty and go back to dead a** Avengers or whatever they are. Thats what they understand

Agree with TJKJ, the ESP crap is BAD for REAL wheeling, never have had , never have needed it, been wheeling for over 35 years now. It will do as Troy says
but some come from a different background so do not fully understand what it is really like to get out on real trails

Oh and I know of several KJs that have over 130,000/150,000 mile swith no problems what so ever, no rust look as good as they did when new something that the Avenger must not of been able to do

 

[Powerslave]

ESP/BAS BAd for wheeling? Well, isn't like you can't TURN IT OFF or anything...

Just scared now, that these brakes won't perform when I need them to, that's all.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

So sell the Jeep and buy a Prius

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

You can only turn it partially off, in doing so you merely deactivate the throttle control part of the TCS. The Electronic Stability Program (ESP) includes Traction Control System (TCS), Electronic Roll Mitigation (ERM), Brake Assist System (BAS) and Anti-lock Brake System (ABS).

 

[tjkj2002]

ESP/BAS BAd for wheeling? Well, isn't like you can't TURN IT OFF or anything...

Just scared now, that these brakes won't perform when I need them to, that's all.

Yes that stuff is bad for wheeling and can be a major threat to your life(not joking) and does not fully turn off.Pull the ABS fuse when you venture offroad to fully turn it off.

 

[JeepJeepster]

After almost getting in a pretty serious wreck this past weekend Im all for ESP. I understand that people should be able to drive and Im fully capable of that but this past weekend whilst doing 65 on a small two lane road(55mph speed limit) in some pretty heavy rain I had an ignorant person pull right out in front of me. Once I locked it up and realizing that was doing nothing I let off the brakes and proceeded to go around them on the wrong side of the road sideways at 65mph. Im not sure if anyone has ever drifted a lifted kj at 65mph in the rain around a car going 5mph on a small 2 lane road with cars coming at you or not but I would of enjoyed having esp keeping me straight. Wish anything I had it on vid, I was all over the place trying to gather it up.

So say whatever you want about esp not beeing good for offroad. For the 99% population that cannot drive they need esp.

 

[tjkj2002]

After almost getting in a pretty serious wreck this past weekend Im all for ESP. I understand that people should be able to drive and Im fully capable of that but this past weekend whilst doing 65 on a small two lane road(55mph speed limit) in some pretty heavy rain I had an ignorant person pull right out in front of me. Once I locked it up and realizing that was doing nothing I let off the brakes and proceeded to go around them on the wrong side of the road sideways at 65mph. Im not sure if anyone has ever drifted a lifted kj at 65mph in the rain around a car going 5mph on a small 2 lane road with cars coming at you or not but I would of enjoyed having esp keeping me straight. Wish anything I had it on vid, I was all over the place trying to gather it up.

So say whatever you want about esp not beeing good for offroad. For the 99% population that cannot drive they need esp.

Maybe the vehicle that pulled out in front of you had ESP and could not accelerate due to the ESP kicking,blows your mind doesn't it?

1st you should not have hit the brakes,just let of the stupid pedal and drive around them if the other lane was clear.If the other lane was not clear,well it's your fault for doing 10mph over the speed limit in heavy rain and not wanting to accept the possibility of what could come of it.

 

[Powerslave]

Well, the subject was a broken DIFF housing, because a wheel was SPINNING free lifted up, then the torque shock of it coming down broke the housing. If ESP was on, that wheel would have been stopped slowly, prior to coming down, thus saving the Diff. It was wrapped up in death, darkness, and silence by someone else...

I would never buy a Prius; the toxic chemical waste produced by making batteries for those cars (and others), is worse, and more than an H2 tailpipe will output in its lifetime.

I could see ESP being bad if you are mudding, ha ha ha, you aren't going anywhere, THAT is funny... Just turn it off; turn it off when you know you don't need it. When you're on solid ground; rocks, and debris, put it back on to save that torque shock to the diff... If you're smart enough to rough-house your Liberty off road, you should have some smarts to know when to turn ESP on and off at the column, when needed... And, stay away from hills and ravines, these brakes can't handle the heat, and you will die.