Heating issues

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MassiveDelta

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2002 KJ 160K on the Jeep 10k on a crate engine put in last year.

Its been cold here. Ive not been driving this regularly since the engine was put in and didn't notice till a few weeks ago but this just doesn't PUMP HOT air out like it used to before the engine swap. Its good enough to stay Not cold inside but it will not force you to roll a window down.

A few weeks ago I found a hole in the radiator. Installed new radiator.

The last two days Ive noticed that the temp gauge barely gets past 1/4 and it used to operate a tick under Half. Heat out put is still not up to *****.

I read some other posts about air bubbles in the system which I need to try to resolve. But I also noticed in another post that this is supposed to have the Orange HOAT coolant in it. Since the Engine swap its had nothing but green in it? Is this a bad thing?
 

LibertyTC

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Oh my ....another non HOAT set up....not good at all.
My recommendation is that you immediately call a jeep dealer to get a quote & have the system flushed or more like put on one of their recirculating machines.
Make sure they have this equipment available. Price should be around $150 and well worth it.
This will safely remove all of the contaminated old coolant and will install the correct HOAT in the right mixture.
 

MassiveDelta

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Oh my ....another non HOAT set up....not good at all.
My recommendation is that you immediately call a jeep dealer to get a quote & have the system flushed or more like put on one of their recirculating machines.
Make sure they have this equipment available. Price should be around $150 and well worth it.
This will safely remove all of the contaminated old coolant and will install the correct HOAT in the right mixture.

Is my engine ruined? Do I need to go pistol whip my mechanic?
 

profdlp

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I seem to recall that the combination of the types of steel, aluminum, rubber and plastics used in the cooling system is what makes HOAT necessary. Sounds good, anyway.
 

nullptr

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I seem to recall that the combination of the types of steel, aluminum, rubber and plastics used in the cooling system is what makes HOAT necessary. Sounds good, anyway.

This is exactly it. When you have two different types of metal and an electrically conductive solution, one will give up atoms when connected to the other with the same solution. Losing atoms means the metal is falling apart. Its the same basic premise as rusting, hence the 'brown sludge' that fills peoples radiators. It's your block. Rusting. From the inside out. :thumbsdown:
 

belvedere

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Sounds like a faulty thermostat to me. As far as the coolant, HOAT will last 5 years, where as conventional green is good for 2. I would not panic about the green coolant. Just change to HOAT/GO5 at your convenience.
 

MassiveDelta

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how can there be such a wide array of advice on this from...."OMG your engine is eating itself alive" to "Meh; you will have to change it eventually do so if you have some extra beer in the fridge on a Saturday afternoon if you run out of ammo to shoot"
 

John3seventeen

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how can there be such a wide array of advice on this from...."OMG your engine is eating itself alive" to "Meh; you will have to change it eventually do so if you have some extra beer in the fridge on a Saturday afternoon if you run out of ammo to shoot"

Because peoples experiences range from having and or seeing damage from using the wrong coolant to being lucky and having no damage till they were able to change it.

Sort of like the advice not to play in traffic, you might get hit by a car. Some people will say I played in traffic and didn't get hit.:shrug:
 
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CzarKJ

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Because peoples experiences range from having and or seeing damage from using the wrong coolant to being lucky and having no damage till they were able to change it.

Sort of like the advice not to play in traffic you might get hit by a car. Some people will say I played in traffic and didn't get hit.:shrug:
And others would say "I've been hit twice!" (No really haha )
 

profdlp

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It's kind of like smoking. A pack a day for a short while won't have any bad long term effect. But keep it up and...

When I bought mine the coolant reservoir looked like it had cottage cheese floating around in it. Had I left it unflushed I might be looking at replacing my radiator (not fun) or the heater core (look up just how "not fun" that is). If I had to take it somewhere for a flush I would bring my own coolant, just to be sure.
 
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belvedere

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If you had said there was Dexcool in the system, I'd say to change it out right away. If it really is conventional green, no hurry. Dexcool (and many Dexclones) contains 2eh, an additive that also happens to be a plasticizer. Remember all the LIM gasket failures on the GM V6 engines? Yep, eaten by the 2eh in Dexcool. GM eventually released a revised gasket that stands up to the 2eh. Will the gaskets in a 3.7 hold up to it? I don't know, and I don't wanna be the guinea pig.

So, G05/HOAT is superior to green in that it has a longer life, but the green contains nothing harmful. (Again, as long as we are talking true conventional green coolant. Many "universal" type coolants are Dexclones containing 2eh. These typically advertise a 5 year life. One exception is Peak Global Lifetime - no 2eh in it.)
 

tjkj2002

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how can there be such a wide array of advice on this from...."OMG your engine is eating itself alive" to "Meh; you will have to change it eventually do so if you have some extra beer in the fridge on a Saturday afternoon if you run out of ammo to shoot"
Actual AIT coolant(AKA the green stuff) is virtually impossible to find these days since it's been phased out of any new vehicle for 20+ years.Colo of coolant these days means nothing as to what coolant it actually is since all coolants are actually clear and dyed per sellers specs.You can get HOAT coolant in either pink,orange,yellow,and green.OAT coolant(aka dexcool) can be found dyed pink,green,red,orange,yellow,blue,and purple.


Mix OAT coolant and HOAT coolant and you get sludge.
 

ltd02

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