Help! 02 key pulls out of ignition in any position

[Shankster]

So after chasing what I thought was a parasitic current drain I figured out that I was pulling out the key in the ACC position which was leaving some stuff energized and draining my battery overnight. Turns out I can start the vehicle, then pull out the key in that position and the car will stay running. I figured I just need to pull out the key when it's in the "OFF" position and I'll be fine, right? Well I'm obviously not A.D.D. enough to remember that every time and even if I take out the key close to the "OFF" position in the direction of ACC it still leaves stuff energized. I bought the car last November and spent the winter rebuilding the motor and don't know any history on the vehicle. There is no obvious damage to the ignition switch (like would happen if someone jammed a screwdriver in there). Is this a common problem with Liberties? Other than replacing the ignition switch is there a simple fix (squirting some lube in there?). This was a SW US desert car and subjected to much dust. I just had a locksmith make me a couple of new keys since the vehicle only came with one so I'd hate to have to replace the switch if I don't have to.

 

[LibertyTC]

Good discovery about the ignition drain caused probably by faulty tumblers/ ignition switch.
Your ignition switch sounds like it is well worn out! Also if the actuator pin breaks it can leave you stranded.
I would get a new Mopar ignition switch installed, any auto locksmith can set tumblers for your current keys.

 

[Shankster]

Thanks. Based on your advice I went shopping (online) for a new ignition switch and in the process came across a video of how to reset tumblers yourself on a new lock cylinder to your existing key (go to Rock Auto and find Ignition Lock Cylinder and click on "info" for the Standard Motor Products one for the video) - I pulled mine out to see if my theory of dust in the lock was the issue - it wasn't but the grease had solidified in there which wasn't helping. Using that video as a guide I took it all apart and cleaned it out with brake cleaner, re-greased and put it back together - better, and actually doesn't pull out in the ACC position any more but still pulls out in the run position. It seems that the "barrel" of the lock cylinder is worn down on the inside. I'll order a new cylinder and it should be pretty straightforward to reset the tumblers for my existing keys using the sidebars out of my old lock. I'm very much on a budget build here so won't be spending $100+ on a Mopar part (I'm not real impressed with the Mopar parts on this vehicle anyway - some of them are pure junk and I've had no issues with the aftermarket replacement parts I've used so far). I'll report back when done.

 

[David13]

That's the way to do it.

But just remember, cheap parts usually wear out fast, and quality parts usually (sometimes) last longer.
dc

 

[Shankster]

Yep, but inexpensive doesn't always = cheap and expensive doesn't always = quality. I understand that the Big 3 select suppliers that can meet their specifications at the lowest bid price. I may be wrong but I envision a Mopar warehouse with a dwindling supply of low-bid parts manufactured many years ago, and a fairly high overhead, resulting in high prices. Then you have companies like Dorman who I sincerely believe try to improve on original parts when they see issues with them. Mopar has little incentive to develop better parts for obsolete vehicles but the likes of Dorman does. While I'm new to Mopar (not counting that '72 Fury I had in college) I've been maintaining my own Fords, GMs, Subarus and Mazdas for over 30 years and in some cases the aftermarket has much better parts (Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets is a good example). Apologies for getting off track here - probably not the right place for this debate.

 

[David13]

I can't debate you on that. There's some good aftermarket, and some bad. But there's also dirt cheap, and total junk. Not worth putting on.
dc

 

[CrazyDrei]

So after chasing what I thought was a parasitic current drain I figured out that I was pulling out the key in the ACC position which was leaving some stuff energized and draining my battery overnight. Turns out I can start the vehicle, then pull out the key in that position and the car will stay running. I figured I just need to pull out the key when it's in the "OFF" position and I'll be fine, right? Well I'm obviously not A.D.D. enough to remember that every time and even if I take out the key close to the "OFF" position in the direction of ACC it still leaves stuff energized. I bought the car last November and spent the winter rebuilding the motor and don't know any history on the vehicle. There is no obvious damage to the ignition switch (like would happen if someone jammed a screwdriver in there). Is this a common problem with Liberties? Other than replacing the ignition switch is there a simple fix (squirting some lube in there?). This was a SW US desert car and subjected to much dust. I just had a locksmith make me a couple of new keys since the vehicle only came with one so I'd hate to have to replace the switch if I don't have to.

Shankster,

Interesting, I had the same issue with my Liberty however to me that was a safety feature more than annoyance or inconvenience. I solved the issue by actually paying attention when I pull the key out.

 

[Shankster]

Figured I should put some closure on this just in case it can help someone else:

So I decided to put my money where my mouth was and buy the cheapest ignition lock I could find. Got one on ebay for 10 bucks. Quality was actually very good and appeared equivalent and externally identical to the original Mopar. However when it came time to swap over the "sidebars" from my original lock into the new lock to match my key it didn't work. Either the slightly different design of the sidebars or an actual internal difference somewhere inside the lock meant that they were not compatible. I toyed with the idea of buying a second $10 lock which would hopefully have provided me with a big enough selection of the sidebars that I could have placed them in the correct places to get it to work with my key. There was a bit of risk there - a) the 2nd lock might not have come with the needed selection of sidebars (I'm about 95% sure it would have though) or b) there might indeed have been an internal difference in the new vs original locks which could have had me trying who knows how many combinations of sidebar positions - there would likely be a logical way to figure it out though but I decided to abandon the dirt cheap route and go with something I was sure would work.

So I found a new "OEM" lock with keys on ebay for like $39 that I thought I'd buy and swap my original sidebars into. Nowhere on the listing did it say "Mopar" but the guy (a locksmith) assured me it was the same as Mopar - I assume it came from the original supplier to Mopar? After asking some questions he told me he had a lock kit without keys that was designed to set up for your original keys so he made a special listing for me at the same price. Anyway, got it in the mail this morning. Looks the same as the Mopar with some subtle differences (there is a little plastic nub that's black, not white like my original) - it was completely disassembled in about 7 individual baggies and came with 5 each of the 4 different possible sizes of sidebar (they are stamped with either 1, 2, 3 or 4) and a little pouch of lock grease. Another baggie had 10 of the sidebar springs (you need 8) and another had the little rods and springs that fix the lock in whatever spot you turn the key to. There were NO instructions though so I think this kit is targeted at locksmiths only. I had sketched the locations and numbers of sidebars from my original lock last time I had it apart so I assembled the new lock the same way (the original lock sidebars were stamped C1, C2, C3 and C4). It worked perfectly on my kitchen table and also works perfectly in the ignition.

So summing up - I think the final solution here is the best way to go. I bet getting a new OEM style lock with keys would work just fine and you just swap in your original sidebars but I suppose there is some risk that your existing sidebars are too worn and might cause issues. The work is kinda fiddly and takes some organization and care but anyone with mechanical aptitude and some attention to detail could easily do it. Have a clean work area, good light, reading glasses if you're as old as me and whatever you do keep track of which sidebar comes out of which location on your original lock - get those mixed up and you're screwed and will have a very expensive bill at the dealership or locksmith.

For instructions you can go to that video from Rock Auto I mentioned in a previous post or you can probably find something on Youtube.