farhopian
New Member
water pump, tcm module, starter, automatic belt tensioner, and working on getting a new radiator i just got the dreaded crack on the top drivers side. but to the point 169000m
High mileage club
- Thread starter sootie007
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Kaden
Full Access Member
I got 158,000 on my 2003 with the 3.7. Still running like a top.
LONGJEEPOWNER
Full Access Member
Just looked at my 2010 Liberty and reached 100,077 miles. So far just brakes and a speed sensor, torque converter changed and ****** serviced. Lucky I guess.
Gunpowder
Full Access Member
269K. ATK Reman about 70 K ago due to valve dropo
okiestate_gal
Member
GREAT thread, y'all. I've enjoyed reading the comments & wondering what to expect out of mine.
'02 Sport 3.6L, at 128k now. Bought it 2 years ago at 113k for $3700. At least 3rd owner.
Previous owner says they replaced the ******
When I got it, the radiator reservoir tank had a leak that flooded the plugs & coils continually for who knows how long, so I replaced-
radiator & reservoir
spark plugs
all coil packs
Recently had the front brakes replaced
Misc stuff-
hydraulic arms under the hood & the back glass
Window regulator for driver side rear
I'm feeling pretty lucky with the low miles on this thing. She starts & runs great. I'm never excited about winter in OK (been in the ditch twice in my old 2wd truck), the icy roads can be a bear going up or down hills, but feel more confident in the Libby. She handles great in all weather thus far! I love this thing!
'02 Sport 3.6L, at 128k now. Bought it 2 years ago at 113k for $3700. At least 3rd owner.
Previous owner says they replaced the ******
When I got it, the radiator reservoir tank had a leak that flooded the plugs & coils continually for who knows how long, so I replaced-
radiator & reservoir
spark plugs
all coil packs
Recently had the front brakes replaced
Misc stuff-
hydraulic arms under the hood & the back glass
Window regulator for driver side rear
I'm feeling pretty lucky with the low miles on this thing. She starts & runs great. I'm never excited about winter in OK (been in the ditch twice in my old 2wd truck), the icy roads can be a bear going up or down hills, but feel more confident in the Libby. She handles great in all weather thus far! I love this thing!
Tin Man
New Member
As a new member I'd like to get started by contributing my experiences. I've owned Liberty (branded as "Cherokee" here in Europe) '05 3.7L V6 for 8 years now, currently at 220 000 km (135 000 miles for you imperially challenged).
This one appears to be designed to run for 100 000 miles and not more. If you own similar and have just crossed that mark the sensible thing is to sell it. Unless you really love it (like I do). I've just completed the full tour of all the main attractions, everything listed below occurred within 35 000 miles between 100k and 135k.
The Big One: Cylinder head re-make. The valve guides start to leak oil, I'm not sure is it the miles or the years but, but they will. The oil builds up on cylinders and exhaust valves causing leakage which will eventually give the treaded P030x error code. For some reason it's usually #1 and #6 that are worst, but there's no explanation why it should be limited to those cylinders only. New guides, cylinder head re-tooled and all valves polished. When cylinder head was opened we found out, that those plastic timing chain guides were hardened and one was already shattered into tiny pieces. I'd recommend, that after 130k timing chain set (including chains, guides and tensioner) should be installed, even if your valves are still ok. It's cheap (set cost $129) compared to complete engine blowup which it may cause.
The other "expected" failures I've already run into are water pump (replace every 100k miles), U-joint, front wheel bearings, front right drive axle (both inner rod and outer CV joint). Also replaced one O2 sensor and tie rod end but these were probably just random failure / normal wear.
For bearings and CV joint use only high quality parts, not cheap crap. Bearings should be original Mopar or ***, Timken or SKF. Never ever use cheap chinese bearings made out of material distantly resembling steel. Unless you are prepared to change them regularly, of course. Bearings that don't list original manufacturer are usually cheap shit or more expensive nicely branded shit. My first CV joint was re-manufactured and it was making noise right from the start. Luckily I was able to return it for full refund and get a brand new instead, but the effort to change it twice was lost.
That's about it. Hopefully I can now happily run next 50 000 miles without any major issues (fingers crossed). And I still do love the car.
This one appears to be designed to run for 100 000 miles and not more. If you own similar and have just crossed that mark the sensible thing is to sell it. Unless you really love it (like I do). I've just completed the full tour of all the main attractions, everything listed below occurred within 35 000 miles between 100k and 135k.
The Big One: Cylinder head re-make. The valve guides start to leak oil, I'm not sure is it the miles or the years but, but they will. The oil builds up on cylinders and exhaust valves causing leakage which will eventually give the treaded P030x error code. For some reason it's usually #1 and #6 that are worst, but there's no explanation why it should be limited to those cylinders only. New guides, cylinder head re-tooled and all valves polished. When cylinder head was opened we found out, that those plastic timing chain guides were hardened and one was already shattered into tiny pieces. I'd recommend, that after 130k timing chain set (including chains, guides and tensioner) should be installed, even if your valves are still ok. It's cheap (set cost $129) compared to complete engine blowup which it may cause.
The other "expected" failures I've already run into are water pump (replace every 100k miles), U-joint, front wheel bearings, front right drive axle (both inner rod and outer CV joint). Also replaced one O2 sensor and tie rod end but these were probably just random failure / normal wear.
For bearings and CV joint use only high quality parts, not cheap crap. Bearings should be original Mopar or ***, Timken or SKF. Never ever use cheap chinese bearings made out of material distantly resembling steel. Unless you are prepared to change them regularly, of course. Bearings that don't list original manufacturer are usually cheap shit or more expensive nicely branded shit. My first CV joint was re-manufactured and it was making noise right from the start. Luckily I was able to return it for full refund and get a brand new instead, but the effort to change it twice was lost.
That's about it. Hopefully I can now happily run next 50 000 miles without any major issues (fingers crossed). And I still do love the car.
They get angry when you call them a car.
Damotee
Full Access Member
Im at 170,000Km and going well (so far!).
Kaden
Full Access Member
03 with 153,000 miles. Payed 600 bucks and nothing wrong but junk radiator and water pump. It also has the typical liberty rocker rust.
MI04
New Member
150k miles on my 2004 as of this month. Bought it at 130k. CEL is now on for P0137 and P0138 (O2 sensors), put a radiator in around 140k, a used transmission at 145k, needs valve cover gaskets, oil pan, and a muffler. And of course the rockers and bottom of the doors are rusting out. Sad thing is, I still can’t find anything under 15k i would rather drive than my KJ. My wife has an 11 KK and I much prefer the KJ.
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dude1116
Full Access Member
171k. Done the suspension, rear LCAs, rear UCA, trans, radiator, and other minor things. She's in for the steering rack now.
Pretty much where I'm at, except the rear UCA. Add in WP, tstat, couple pairs of ujoints, PS pump, alternator and new CVs/intermediate shaft up front.
dude1116
Full Access Member
I basically included all of that in minor. WP and tstat were preventative. Ujoints in the rear driveshaft. 1 CV in the front driveshaft (that blew right away...still using the one with the torn boot). 1 CV axle and intermediate shaft.
Valve cover gaskets, crank seal, radiator cap...
And now it could probably use another set of U joints, front axle seals, rocker panels, and a new trans/torque converter.
Don't get me wrong...I have some money in this thing but having it for 9 years it's costed me a HELL of a lot less than a new vehicle. Which STILL wouldn't have been guaranteed to be maintenance free.
My Jeep owes me nothing. I abused it and she took it in stride.
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Exactly...repairs are still less than a car payment so far. Plus there really aren't any new vehicles I like as much anyway.
GA05KJ
New Member
05' 180,*** was mine now one of the offspring's DD (lots of mods )
06' 200,1XX was Mom's now my DD ( mom will not recognize in another 90 days )
12' 82,000 is HER DD
06' 200,1XX was Mom's now my DD ( mom will not recognize in another 90 days )
12' 82,000 is HER DD
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