How To: Change a Front CV Axle

[rawger]

right front cv axle replace

bought my 04 liberty renegade new. 166k now.
replaced all front bushings last year, wish there was a poly sub instead of the stock rubber.
right front cv got really noisy, like ready to grenade.
was a ***** gettin everything apart to remove it.
reman cv axle from o'reilly's was cheaper than i expected.
once I got the old one out, the bearings seemed ok.
upon closer inspection, the splines in the inner cv that connect to the intermediate shaft are gone! chewed up. didn't expect that.
splines on the shaft ok, so just replaced cv axle and hope for best?:
:ROFLJest:
70 degrees in Phoenix today.

 

[tommudd]

bought my 04 liberty renegade new. 166k now.
replaced all front bushings last year, wish there was a poly sub instead of the stock rubber.
right front cv got really noisy, like ready to grenade.
was a ***** gettin everything apart to remove it.
reman cv axle from o'reilly's was cheaper than i expected.
once I got the old one out, the bearings seemed ok.
upon closer inspection, the splines in the inner cv that connect to the intermediate shaft are gone! chewed up. didn't expect that.
splines on the shaft ok, so just replaced cv axle and hope for best?:
:ROFLJest:
70 degrees in Phoenix today.

Replace the intermediate shaft and the CV
get the CV from NAPA, much better

 

[rawger]

yah, I was wondering if i could get away with just axle. but you're right.
Thanks Tommudd.
will have to wait until next weekend

 

[duderz7]

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd throw this in there in case someone is searching for tips on this procedure. I found it to be easier to remove axle and intermediate shaft (which came out together in my case) with the knuckle, and the shock completely removed. If they come out separately this probably won't be necessary, but you won't know if they do until it's hanging halfway out. Then you get to fight the stuff with an axle in the way.

 

[Adman]

Photobucket has blurred the pictures, does anyone have the full quality images?

 

[deltsigjames]

I installed Frankenlift about 6 months ago and it did not take long for my CV axles to start marking noise. Now the right was has completely exploded the grease and is vibrating pretty bad. I purchased Napa Reman CV axles the other day, but when I got home I noticed the axles were made in china and were newly manufactured parts. The part number correlates to the reman part number but they are supplying new axles made in china instead. Anyone have any experience with these? Or have a suggestion on a better solution? Mine are about to implode so I need to get them changed asap.

 

[duderz7]

Perhaps the Cvs used to reman are made in China, but the axle itself is the correct length which I think is the issue. Having said that it's probably been long enough now that non oem axles are making their way back into the reman system.

 

[deltsigjames]

That’s a good point you made. They could have been aftermarket units that are in the reman system now.

 

[tommudd]

I installed Frankenlift about 6 months ago and it did not take long for my CV axles to start marking noise. Now the right was has completely exploded the grease and is vibrating pretty bad. I purchased Napa Reman CV axles the other day, but when I got home I noticed the axles were made in china and were newly manufactured parts. The part number correlates to the reman part number but they are supplying new axles made in china instead. Anyone have any experience with these? Or have a suggestion on a better solution? Mine are about to implode so I need to get them changed asap.

Take them back and make sure they are remanned ones not cheap knockoffs

 

[deltsigjames]

Take them back and make sure they are remanned ones not cheap knockoffs

I assume the Chinese knockoffs are not as strong as reman OEM axles. You can never tell what material they used even if the dimensions are the same.

 

[deltsigjames]

My passenger side CV axle is now clicking and vibrating to the point where I dont think I can drive it. Now I am thinking to upgrade to 4.10 gears, but do not have the time or parts to get it done this weekend. Is it possible to remove the CV axles and still drive the vehicle without damaging anything? FYI, I already removed the front driveshaft a couple months back due to excessive vibration.

 

[tommudd]

My passenger side CV axle is now clicking and vibrating to the point where I dont think I can drive it. Now I am thinking to upgrade to 4.10 gears, but do not have the time or parts to get it done this weekend. Is it possible to remove the CV axles and still drive the vehicle without damaging anything? FYI, I already removed the front driveshaft a couple months back due to excessive vibration.

Yes you can remove both CVs and the intermediate shaft and drive it, just plug the holes on both sides with something to keep dirt out.
I've known some who ran like for a year or more LOL
Are you going with 4 cylinder gasser 4.10s or ???

 

[deltsigjames]

From my research there are no other 4.10s out there beside the Mopar part number (for the D30a). I have a couple of "pull-your-own-part" yards near me that I have been keeping an eye on, but someone has been quick to get the 4.10s before me. I have been thinking to pull the entire front and rear axles from a 4 cyl that way I did not have to pay someone to install the gears in mine. But...I am also thinking to do a DTT in the front axle and possibly a arb locker in the rear. If that is the case then I would have to pay someone to remove and install the carriers anyway. You know anyone with a set of 4.10s that wants to part ways with them?

 

[tommudd]

4.10s from the gassers are getting harder and harder to find for sure.
I have friends all over that serch them out for me, but even they haven't found any for a few months
Used to be you could grab front and rear 4.10 diffs for 200 bucks, sadly those days are gone
I'm down to one extra set, but still have the 05 to build yet so,................

 

[deltsigjames]

So I pulled both CV shafts and plugged differential tubes. Started my test drive and hurdle grinding, followed by a metal clang. Stopped immediately to see what part I had lost. Noticed the front hub was missing the inner piece and the other side was about to lose the inner piece. Now both hubs are now trash. I was under the impression they were preset hubs that did not need to be preloaded. What holds them together on the 2wd version? I assume I need those parts or I will have the same problem again once I replace these hubs.

 

[duderz7]

Picture? To my knowledge 2wd and 4wd hubs are the same.

 

[deltsigjames]

So apparently I bought the only hub bearing from rock auto that requires preloading. It was a Timken hub for 4wd only. It uses the 100 ft-lbs axle nut torque to preload the bearing. When I removed the cv shafts... that was it for the bearing. I will upload photos when I can shrink them down on my computer.

 

[deltsigjames]

As promised here is the result of the hub bearing catastrophe.

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[deltsigjames]

More photos...

 

[tommudd]

Never had any issues with pulling CVs and running without them. Heck had a buddy we did rear 4.10s and then he lost his job so ran for over 2 years without any CVs in, no issues at all, bearing did not blow up /out etc
I have a customer now that has ran 2 months, 500 miles a week without the right side CV in, again no issues
not sure what you mean by preloading the bearing , but I would say bad bearing to begin with