How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head

[simond]

Hell yea!! really usefull! thank'S buddy!

 

[ktmwoodsman]

Thanks guys got her changed and works greatarty52:

 

[TruLiberty]

Hey gang, I got my bolts out, but i cant get the shaft lose, any tips?

 

[ktmwoodsman]

Hey gang, I got my bolts out, but i cant get the shaft lose, any tips?

Light taps with a BFH.:favorites68:

 

[TruLiberty]

Success on one side, the tcase side is a b*TCH

 

[TruLiberty]

SUCCESSS!!! Now just gotta order the part lol

 

[xTHUNDERCATx]

sorry to ressurect this but im having trouble getting the head split like it is in the 9th picture how do i get that seperated
thanks - chris

 

[MiST3R BRiNk]

i just bought a new drive shaft fomr automotive unlimited it came with all the bolts and such i need, but i lost the original bolts and the clips that conect the bolts to each other, i dont know what its called but you can see it in your pics... is that little peice necisarry if so were do i get another? thanks!

 

[twack]

i would use all hardware needed and not skip anything. and the old bolts are so much easier to work with then the new ones. let us know how it goes

 

[Ry Guy]

Terrific write-up. I had Jeep diagnose my 4WD problem as this driveshaft head in the transfer case being all chewed up. They didn't even have to take it apart, they just put a light inside that opening and showed me the boot all torn up. They quoted me $718 with tax and said that they would have to drop the transfer case and everything to get it out. (WTF?) I went down to O'Reilly auto here and they had a remanufactured one for $400. Then I call Automotive Parts Unlimited and they have it new, fully assembled and balanced for WAYY cheaper. Thank God for forums.

One question I do have now that I realize this is a DIY, what are the chances the transfer case is screwed up inside because of the driveshaft being screwed up? There is squealing after 20 min or more of driving (even in 2WD) and binding and grinding when in 4WD. I know it's hard to say before looking inside but I'm just curious as to what I should expect.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

 

[twack]

sounds like you got 2 issues. Try changing the transfer case fluid and see what the old fluid looks like and if theres any chewed up pieces. Are all 4 of your tires the same size/wear/brand?

 

[Ry Guy]

sounds like you got 2 issues. Try changing the transfer case fluid and see what the old fluid looks like and if theres any chewed up pieces. Are all 4 of your tires the same size/wear/brand?

All 4 tires are the exact same. Even the tread is almost exactly the same depth all the way around (measured with quarter). I thought the squealing was possibly a brake hanging up and just making noise once it got real hot but I cleaned all the brakes yesterday along with 4 brand new pads, brake-cleaned everything and went for a test drive only to find it was still making the squeal noise.

I'll have to try to change the fluid but I don't really think it's necessary as Chrysler changed that fluid a couple weeks ago when the problem was occurring and they never mentioned metallic-like fluid nor any chunks... Also the 4WD goes in and out without any resistance whatsoever, just starts binding and grinding when I start moving.

 

[Nooby]

Terrific write-up. I had Jeep diagnose my 4WD problem as this driveshaft head in the transfer case being all chewed up. They didn't even have to take it apart, they just put a light inside that opening and showed me the boot all torn up. They quoted me $718 with tax and said that they would have to drop the transfer case and everything to get it out. (WTF?) I went down to O'Reilly auto here and they had a remanufactured one for $400. Then I call Automotive Parts Unlimited and they have it new, fully assembled and balanced for WAYY cheaper. Thank God for forums.

One question I do have now that I realize this is a DIY, what are the chances the transfer case is screwed up inside because of the driveshaft being screwed up? There is squealing after 20 min or more of driving (even in 2WD) and binding and grinding when in 4WD. I know it's hard to say before looking inside but I'm just curious as to what I should expect.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

I am taking you have not got the new drive shaft installed yet,

easy way to tell if your only problem is the drive shaft, remove it now while waiting for parts, Don't put it in 4wheel drive

and go for a drive, noise gone, only problem is the drive shaft, and you can drive with out the front drive shaft (I did for 2months) as long as you don't engage the shaft

and the reason you would still get noise even in 2wheel drive, is that the drive shaft will always turn when you drive, there just wont be power to it

 

[Ry Guy]

I am taking you have not got the new drive shaft installed yet,

easy way to tell if your only problem is the drive shaft, remove it now while waiting for parts, Don't put it in 4wheel drive

and go for a drive, noise gone, only problem is the drive shaft, and you can drive with out the front drive shaft (I did for 2months) as long as you don't engage the shaft

and the reason you would still get noise even in 2wheel drive, is that the drive shaft will always turn when you drive, there just wont be power to it

They just got them in stock last night so it should be shipped out today/tomorrow. I am planning on removing it hopefully tomorrow. I was informed it's okay to remove it unless you engage 4WD, as you said, or go for extended drives, which I don't plan on doing either. Thanks for the tips, hopefully it's just the shaft that's messed up. Does the transfer case have some kind of safety that prevents it from getting messed up even if the shaft is chewed up?

 

[dart69]

thnx to all the cats that made this a do it yourself..awesome and saved a buttload of cash. and FYI eric is no longer there but mention this site and they make sure all is well on shipping etc..

 

[mightybeet]

successfully replaced the cv joint and runs all fancy again. found that when removing the drive,
1. loosen the transfer case side bolts slightly
2. remove the front diff side bolts. now ya will be able to spin the shaft for easier removal of transfer case side.
3. remove transfer side bolts.
getting the transfer case side back in was a pain but got it in by using 1 longer bolt to help pull it into place. then replaced with correct bolt after.

also.. thanks for helping me save $600+!

 

[lvmylibby]

Hmmm, any ideas?

Got a mystery to solve...

I've been noticing the roar for a short time and it was getting hard to have a conversation while driving. Thought it may be due to running on underinflated tires over the winter (oops). Tires needed replacing anyway so got a new set and roar was still there. Jacked the front wheels off the floor and gave it a roll and noticed torn boot on frnt drive shaft (transf case end). Gave PartsUnlimted a call and got new shaft ordered. At this point I'm feeling good about solving the problem. Since I want to keep driving while I wait for the shaft, I pop out the old one. Noise should be gone at this point, right? Nope! Still there.
So... I know its not wheel bearings because the sound doesn't change steering left/right. Sound increases with speed and sounds like the roar of offroad tires on pavement. The main bearing at the rear of the front diff was replaced due to a leak 1-2 years ago. I'm able to freely turn the yoke back and forth with my hand and there isn't any fluid leaking from the seal. The frnt diff has new fluid in it.
Anyone able to shed some light on this before I take it to the stealership???

 

[lvmylibby]

Getting closer

I think I may have solved the problem myself. It wasn't the pinion bearing I had replaced earlier, it was the seal. I just watched a video on youtube of a guy driving with a bad pinion bearing. It sounds just like the noise I'm hearing. I'm thinking the bearing must be worn out.

Can I assume that bearing replacement is something left to the pros?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I think I may have solved the problem myself. It wasn't the pinion bearing I had replaced earlier, it was the seal. I just watched a video on youtube of a guy driving with a bad pinion bearing. It sounds just like the noise I'm hearing. I'm thinking the bearing must be worn out.

Can I assume that bearing replacement is something left to the pros?

It's probably the intermediate shaft that's making the noise. The roar can get pretty loud, especially around 50mph. Best to just replace the CV joints on both sides plus the intermediate shaft - about $200 to $250 for the parts. Easy to do yourself. Check the How-To's.

Bob

 

[Strike]

my first post

I looked under my jeep today and noticed that boot was destroyed. i started getting the roaring noise also, im going to remove the shaft tomorrow and see if the noise is still there.

i am very happy for this forum