Really nothing to installing one
Has it been cut yet ?
Bracket on the rear diff is easy just remove old bracket and install new one
Measure length you want the new arms and tighten the nuts down to that length
Is the one you have new or used?
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Has it been cut yet ?
Bracket on the rear diff is easy just remove old bracket and install new one
Measure length you want the new arms and tighten the nuts down to that length
Is the one you have new or used?
TorrentIV
A Leaf on the Wind
Not sure what you mean by cut, haven't removed any brackets yet. I'm about another week from payday and want a new boomerang as the ball joint on this one is starting to go. Also got it used, came with an H piece, a straight bar, and 3 bolts with washers. Lastly are you saying to get a new diff bracket, or is the factory one good?
Sorry to confuse, thought you had bought a JBA bolt on , but you just have the extender
well remove old bracket , can leave it attached to the tri-link
set the extension up in place , then set your pinion angle , determine how many washers you need between the new bracket and the OE one
you want the center line of the transfer case and the center line of the rear diff parallel to each other
well remove old bracket , can leave it attached to the tri-link
set the extension up in place , then set your pinion angle , determine how many washers you need between the new bracket and the OE one
you want the center line of the transfer case and the center line of the rear diff parallel to each other
TorrentIV
A Leaf on the Wind
Roger, gotta find my mini level. I saw it about a year ago...
Eye ball it, that is the way I did them all
profdlp
Fired
^ Tom would be the expert, but I know from what I've read here that every install needs a little custom tweaking with the washers to get the angle just right. Lot's of variable and every Jeep is slightly different.
Did yours come with instructions? I have a brand new one out in the garage which (I think) has the instruction manual. As I recall, they pretty much say the same thing about experimenting with the washers to get the angle set.
Did yours come with instructions? I have a brand new one out in the garage which (I think) has the instruction manual. As I recall, they pretty much say the same thing about experimenting with the washers to get the angle set.
TorrentIV
A Leaf on the Wind
It looks like it's easy, but I want to be 100 percent on it, it's my baby after all . And no instructions with it, got it used from another kj owner who was upgrading his ride so anything you have would be great
. And no instructions with it, got it used from another kj owner who was upgrading his ride so anything you have would be great
DispatchMinion
Member
looking for a guide on how to center my steering wheel. 2007 Liberty. It is off-center by 1-2 degrees to the right
The steering wheel can be a little off if your rear suspension is slightly tweaked. In other words, if you have to have the wheel turned to drive straight, you could be dog-legging it down the highway. Check the rear control arms, bushings, the tri-link, etc. for play. There was a recall on KJ control arms a while back for people in the snow belt, if I remember correctly.
If the steering wheel is like the one on my KK, it only fits on the steering shaft one way, so you can’t just remove it and put it back on straight.
If the steering wheel is like the one on my KK, it only fits on the steering shaft one way, so you can’t just remove it and put it back on straight.
Billwill
Full Access Member
The older KJs such as my 2002 Export CRD have a spline at the top of the steering column so that it is possible to move the wheel position slightly.
I believe on the newer KJs the steering wheel can only fit on in one position....you may have to have the alignment checked or possibly you can rotate the column slightly at the lower end where it goes into the steering rack.
Do not mess with the top of the steering column without first disconnecting the battery terminals and clamping them together for at least 20 minutes so that the airbags do not go off!
SpenceMeister
New Member
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Well I’m doing the infamous oil pan gasket job on a 4x4 KJ 07.
TLDR; Removing oil pan while keeping front axle connected. Requesting related info/Qs/how-to.
Unrelated but possibly related for potential responses, the engine block is stripped of the heads and timing cover but remains on the chassis. Already got the windage tray separated from the oil pan, need to figure out how to lift the engine, just haven’t done this before and don’t want to damage any internal components nor destabilize the support system without adequate awareness. Multiple frame point connections, not sure what I should, can get away with not removing but allowing the engine block to lift higher allowing for more room to remove for cleaning, enough clearance between the axle and frame support. Watched a YouTube, I can link if necessary, that shows removing oil pan without removing axle, only removing the front driveshaft connection to the front differential.
-Hope it’s not too much detail, just wanted to give an overview of my current knowledge on the job. Also have all the shop manuals that sequence how to remove the front axle.
TLDR; Removing oil pan while keeping front axle connected. Requesting related info/Qs/how-to.
Unrelated but possibly related for potential responses, the engine block is stripped of the heads and timing cover but remains on the chassis. Already got the windage tray separated from the oil pan, need to figure out how to lift the engine, just haven’t done this before and don’t want to damage any internal components nor destabilize the support system without adequate awareness. Multiple frame point connections, not sure what I should, can get away with not removing but allowing the engine block to lift higher allowing for more room to remove for cleaning, enough clearance between the axle and frame support. Watched a YouTube, I can link if necessary, that shows removing oil pan without removing axle, only removing the front driveshaft connection to the front differential.
-Hope it’s not too much detail, just wanted to give an overview of my current knowledge on the job. Also have all the shop manuals that sequence how to remove the front axle.
DO NOT follow the sequence on how to remove the front diff according to the shop manual, way easier ways to do it and takes way less time
Shankster
Full Access Member
Once the snow and ice melt off my driveway I'm going to install a LSD in my front diff. My question is about removing the front axle so that I can work on it. I've read that using the FSM procedure is more involved than it needs to be and that there is a much faster procedure. I've not been able to find that step-by-step how-to. Can someone who's done that please post that on this forum?
Two diff mounting bolts in front are in backwards, just need to loosen them, and cut them off
When replacing just new bolts installed the correct way
of course that is after you remove CVs etc
GO DTT in front , best bang for the buck
