jfortier777
Full Access Member
mutt said:
I was sure you were insinuating that you would be hand delivering.
HOW TO: Install a Frankenlift *Lots of Pictures* COMPLETE!
- Thread starter jfortier777
- Start date
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I was sure you were insinuating that you would be hand delivering.
JeepJeepster
Full Access Member
Aight guys, take it easy. =;
Mutt didnt say he was going to be the one punching people in the head. Hes just a real nice muscular guy that has 80lb dumbbells. (Cheers)
Mutt didnt say he was going to be the one punching people in the head. Hes just a real nice muscular guy that has 80lb dumbbells. (Cheers)
Mutt
Full Access Member
jeepjeepster said:
#-o :-k \
/
jfortier777
Full Access Member
jeepjeepster said:
threestoges.gif
white04kj
New Member
Parts list http://www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9837&highlight=frankenlift+tools
If you don't feel like hitting the caliper with a hammer (I don't know if you'd risk any damage, but I wouldn't want to try) loosen the cap on the brake fluid bottle (sorry it's late... or early and I can't remember the technical name for it ](*,). Then use a screwdriver to pry the caliper open. Just remember to replace the cap, otherwise you'll have issues when you decide to go for a spin.
Also, when it's time to put the lower clevis bolt in, if you're having trouble lining everything up, get one end in and hammer it through, then the other end will be easier to line up. I had to put mine in from the front, as I just couldn't get the rear lined up.
I'd also recommend leaving the rear sway bar off. I haven't had one for about 8 months and can't really notice a difference in how it handles on the street, but it'll make a world of difference when you're on the trails.
If you don't feel like hitting the caliper with a hammer (I don't know if you'd risk any damage, but I wouldn't want to try) loosen the cap on the brake fluid bottle (sorry it's late... or early and I can't remember the technical name for it ](*,). Then use a screwdriver to pry the caliper open. Just remember to replace the cap, otherwise you'll have issues when you decide to go for a spin.
Also, when it's time to put the lower clevis bolt in, if you're having trouble lining everything up, get one end in and hammer it through, then the other end will be easier to line up. I had to put mine in from the front, as I just couldn't get the rear lined up.
I'd also recommend leaving the rear sway bar off. I haven't had one for about 8 months and can't really notice a difference in how it handles on the street, but it'll make a world of difference when you're on the trails.
moose_1978
New Member
Man your lift is big.It looks like you have a spacer as well as the bigger coil or am I just seing things.I have rusty's coils on my kj and only have about 35 inch and you are getting about 371/2.I need to do something to mine and make it bigger.
jfortier777
Full Access Member
moose_1978 said:
Lol the frankenlift is just crazy high like that. What can I say?
But yes the frankenlift is a combination of:
Heavy Duty Coils
Strut Top Plate
Spacer Under Coil
All together people gain a bit more than the 2.5" that the lift claims to be. But I have not added anything in addition to the frankenlift package. Not even a clevis lift.
Corwyyn
Full Access Member
Miah, I have seen this write up both here and on L.O.S.T. and I have to say GOOD JOB! One question I have: how long do you think it took you to do the front portion, given your level of expertise?
jfortier777
Full Access Member
Corwyyn said:
Realistically my level scores maybe a 2.5 on the 1-10 scale of mechanical expertise...
At the time it took me about 3-4 hours.
I could do it now in 2(inlcuding Al's arms); and the rear in about an hour and change.
The MOST important factor that sped up my times would be my new tools.
Which consist of a metric and standard set of deep well impact sockets.
My wonderful impact gun, a 6", 1/2" extention; as well as an impact angle adapter (not the normal angle adapter, they suck).
I guess having installed two different lifts also helps.
All in all I was able to remove the entire thing in 4 hours, completely alone. This also included Al's arms. I had to spread out those 4 hours over three days because of my schedule and other factors.
After all that I would consider myself well versed in frankenlift installation so feel free to ask any questions.
ALSO:
Thank you to whoever mentioned that tie-rod removal is unecessary. You were right; allthough it did make it difficult to get to the upper ball joint nut, it was possible with an extension and an angle adapter.
EDIT: It was Mutt. Thank you Mutt, heres to you...
(Cheers) (Cheers) (Cheers) (Cheers) (Cheers)
icarl
Full Access Member
Tow Hooks
I see the heavy duty tow hooks you have under the front of your vehicle. I was thinking of getting the ARB bull bar as well and need to get some tow hooks installed. Do those tow hooks attach to the ARB bumper or do they mounted on the frame some how? And where/how did you mount them?
I see the heavy duty tow hooks you have under the front of your vehicle. I was thinking of getting the ARB bull bar as well and need to get some tow hooks installed. Do those tow hooks attach to the ARB bumper or do they mounted on the frame some how? And where/how did you mount them?
MoladoGuy
Full Access Member
Re: Tow Hooks
I believe the ARB came with the recovery points up front. He installed D-Rings to those recovery points.
icarl said:
I believe the ARB came with the recovery points up front. He installed D-Rings to those recovery points.
jfortier777
Full Access Member
Re: Tow Hooks
Phil is correct. They were D-rings. The holes for them were pre-drilled by ARB and are supported by 3/4" thick steel.
They are 150% more usefull when offroad than hooks. (Opion based on usage)
Heres a pic.
...I think I just cried a little... sad2.gif
MoladoGuy said:
Phil is correct. They were D-rings. The holes for them were pre-drilled by ARB and are supported by 3/4" thick steel.
They are 150% more usefull when offroad than hooks. (Opion based on usage)
Heres a pic.
You must be registered for see images attach
...I think I just cried a little... sad2.gif
How To: Replace the front struts
I asked this question yesterday and did not find it on the list. How do you remove and replace the front struts on a 2002 Jeep Liberty. I've changes struts before but I've not had to separate the lower control arm. Please help me before I get into a position where I have to stop and get other tools to finish the job. Can one of the techs look at this and respond to my question.
Thanks in advance.
I asked this question yesterday and did not find it on the list. How do you remove and replace the front struts on a 2002 Jeep Liberty. I've changes struts before but I've not had to separate the lower control arm. Please help me before I get into a position where I have to stop and get other tools to finish the job. Can one of the techs look at this and respond to my question.
Thanks in advance.
MoladoGuy
Full Access Member
http://jeepkj.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4194&start=0
Although this is how to install a lift, you are still doing the same motions to install your front struts. At least you will get an idea of what is needed to get the current struts out and the new ones in.
Although this is how to install a lift, you are still doing the same motions to install your front struts. At least you will get an idea of what is needed to get the current struts out and the new ones in.
icarl
Full Access Member
Quote from jfortier777:
Okay, I am currently installing the frankenlift. I tried to do it without removing the tie rod but the lower control arm does not go low enough. I used 2 guys and 2 pry bars. One to pry the control arm down and another to push the lower clevis into place. It's really difficult as there is not a lot of great prying locations. I can get it in place but the control arm sits about 1/2" too far up for the holes to line up. I guess I will have to go buy a tie rod remover tommorrow or a spring compressor unless someone has some bright ideas.
Okay, I am currently installing the frankenlift. I tried to do it without removing the tie rod but the lower control arm does not go low enough. I used 2 guys and 2 pry bars. One to pry the control arm down and another to push the lower clevis into place. It's really difficult as there is not a lot of great prying locations. I can get it in place but the control arm sits about 1/2" too far up for the holes to line up. I guess I will have to go buy a tie rod remover tommorrow or a spring compressor unless someone has some bright ideas.
AbsoluteRenegade
Full Access Member
hammer worked for me, spring compressors are pretty hard to work on front struts, I fount it a pain, and next time around, I will not rent them.
icarl
Full Access Member
I can get it in place but the holes on the arm are about 1/2" too high to line up with the holes on the lower clevis. I even used a 4' long crow bar to try and push the arm down but it will not go down any farther because the tie rod won't let it.
icarl
Full Access Member
Okay, I got it in with the aid of a rachet strap and a 4' long crow bar to compress the spring. It even bent the crow bar - that's how much force it took! It seems like the strut assembly is too long because it puts a tremendous amount of force onto the inner CV boot. I jacked the lower arm up to take the stress off the boot but it only went up about an inch before lifting the entire vehicle off the jacks. These are extremely stiff springs. I'm starting to have second thoughts about all this. Wonder if I'll be able to hook up the a-arms tommorow, or if they'll even reach?
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keep us posted.
