HOW TO: Install New A-Arms

[twack]

This write up is on how to install any A-arms into a Liberty. I am using JBA gen3 but there are many out there. This will also work for stock arms.

Put your Liberty on jackstands and take off your front tires

time to go

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undo the upper ball joint and break it lose, i like to leave the jack a half inch below the lower balljoint so it dosnt fall much.

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Here are the 4 locations in the engine bay for the A-arm mounts.

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PASSENGER SIDE
this will be the easier side. pretty easy to get tools to the mounts

self supporting A-arm mount bolts

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I chose to open up the A-arm pockets, its not pretty but you get the idea

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use the jack to bring the hub up to meet the new upper ball joint

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Grease your ball joint and move on to the drivers side

DRIVERSIDE
this side will be a little tougher but hopefully this will help

remove the 2 bolts by the drivers coil, and move the steering shaft mount to give yourself a little more room

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I had to use a ratcheting wrench and a pry bar to move it to break it loose because of the space

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here are the drivers pockets with some enlarging

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here is the drivers installed

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This is the reason that you upgrade arms with a lift. as you can see the ball joint is at an extreme angle and it has made contact with the spring many times. The boot has ripped and the metal itself has damage and WILL lead to failure theyve been cleaned up but they are torn pretty bad and were spitting grease all over the spacer and spring, i was just injecting more grease to keep them alive until i upgraded.

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[boebr1]

This was very helpful! however, I have ABS system that almost completely blocks access to the Driver's side rear bolt for the control arm. Problem solved with about 2 feet of extensions... that put the ratchet just next to the radiator... i suggest don't use a 3/8" wobbly (u-joint), as it shattered in my son's hand as I applied foot to the breaker bar.
Also would like to add that if you support the rear on stands as well, it takes less jacking to compress the lower arm upward

 

[huntbuggy]

Just wanted to ask / add to this thread.

When torquing the balljoint nut - 60 ft/lbs according to instructions - should / will the cotter pin actually line up?

 

[yellocoyote]

Just wanted to ask / add to this thread.

When torquing the balljoint nut - 60 ft/lbs according to instructions - should / will the cotter pin actually line up?

What I've done with mine is torque to 60 ft/lbs, and then back the nut off enough for you to add the cotter pin. Most of the time it's only approx 1/4-1/2 turn anyway... not enough to hurt anything.

 

[huntbuggy]

Thx Coyote. Seems logical enough - but...

In the instructions of the balljoint it says to not back it off... but the other instructions say 60ft/lbs like stock. I think if I don't find anything on the forums might just torque near 60 and put the cotter pin wherever?

(Bright idea - Or maybe we could ask Marlin, doh!)

edit - here's TonyCRDs idea from http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=59972&p=665754#p665754

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Bend the cotter pin end upwards to lock the nut better at 60 ft/lbs.

 

[BjBnet]

Don't know why they don't put the hole up a little higher.

 

[yellocoyote]

edit - here's TonyCRDs idea from http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=59972&p=665754#p665754

Bend the cotter pin end upwards to lock the nut better at 60 ft/lbs.

Not a bad idea. I'll have to keep that in mind when I have things disassembled again... hopefully not in the near future.

 

[tommudd]

PLUS since it was not brought up

tighten the bolts but do not torque them until you have the weight of the KJ on the tires, then set the torque.Doing so before will preload the bushings and they could or will fail quicker

 

[tjkj2002]

Don't know why they don't put the hole up a little higher.

because those ball joints are not originally for a KJ.You can add a washer or 2 under the castle nut to achieve what you want.

 

[BjBnet]

ahh, that makes more sense

 

[Xodius]

because those ball joints are not originally for a KJ.You can add a washer or 2 under the castle nut to achieve what you want.

How big of washer? When playing with mine yesterday I reset them and the hole is lower than the castle nut. Should I slap a couple of washers in there?

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I was wondering if that could be my popping noise when I turn. Just a thought.

 

[huntbuggy]

How big of washer? When playing with mine yesterday I reset them and the hole is lower than the castle nut. Should I slap a couple of washers in there?

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I was wondering if that could be my popping noise when I turn. Just a thought.

Strange, at 60ft/lbs your castle nut should probably be at or above the hole, no? Have you double-checked your torque settings? (I get paranoid and use another wrench on everything just to be sure - things can get uncalibrated and I'm a :freak3: that way.)

In the OE balljoint instructions that come with the arms it specifically says NOT to use a washer unless it's original equipment... however this BJ stud was probably not intended for our knuckle anyhow but seems to seat pretty clean once I got it torqued up.

Can't really tell from your pic but mine seem seated more deeply I think and threads basically begin at the knuckle hole.

On another note, greased them and boy you can tell when you've squeezed too much from the gun... makes a bit of a mess coming out the bottom of the boot... ah well grease protects the knuckle too :happy175:

 

[tjkj2002]

How big of washer? When playing with mine yesterday I reset them and the hole is lower than the castle nut. Should I slap a couple of washers in there?

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I was wondering if that could be my popping noise when I turn. Just a thought.

That is not your poping noise.Again that balljoint is not ment for a KJ so just ignore any instructions for it,it's a upper balljoint for a Chevy fullsize if I remember correctly,but so happens to have the correct taper to fit in a the KJ's knuckle.That cotter pin is there so the castle nut does not fully come off the balljoint stud.Don't worry about it as long as you torqued it correctly.It's more likely the balljoint will be well worn(play in it) well before that nut will loosen on it's own.

 

[Xodius]

Sounds good. I actually backed off the nut when I took the pic. All torqued up it is up a little more...maybe 1/4 thread more. This pic is at about....30 lbs roughly.

 

[DJSKJ]

What type of tool did you guys use to separate the upper ball joint from the steering nuckle? I have seen mention of C-4150A. Not sure what that is? I have seen a Pickle Fork used or just a hammer and screw driver.

DJ

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

What type of tool did you guys use to separate the upper ball joint from the steering nuckle? I have seen mention of C-4150A. Not sure what that is? I have seen a Pickle Fork used or just a hammer and screw driver.

DJ

The hi-tech tool most often used is part number BFH - in the JeepKJCountry.com How-To Manual the B is referenced as "Big," the H is referenced as "Hammer" while the F is referenced as...:favorites68:

You get the idea :smokin:

Seriously, a few strong whacks on the knuckle with the BFH should do the trick. Tommudd on here has a magic technique that makes it easy. I think his over/under is 3 BFH whacks...and I'd bet the under :happy175:

Bob

 

[Jo6pak]

What type of tool did you guys use to separate the upper ball joint from the steering nuckle? I have seen mention of C-4150A. Not sure what that is? I have seen a Pickle Fork used or just a hammer and screw driver.

DJ

If you're not re-using the ball loint or UCA, just use a pickle-fork. It's inexpensive, easy to use, and quite useful for alot of other jobs, like opening a beer bottle whe you're done.:whip:

 

[twack]

The hi-tech tool most often used is part number BFH - in the JeepKJCountry.com How-To Manual the B is referenced as "Big," the H is referenced as "Hammer" while the F is referenced as...:favorites68:

this is awesome

 

[DJSKJ]

BFH it will be than, however the Pickle Fork and the beer bottle is very tempting. arty52: How about the lower ball joint removal and installation? I am going to replace those as well and I am not sure a BFH would be recommended for this procedure.

DJ

 

[Downtown]

DJ,
I used this tool just this past weekend - http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html

It worked well however, it has the potential to damage the BJ boot (not a BFD if you are replacing the arm).

Also, I pooped a little when the joint broke loose. I had my hand on the tool (mistake) when it let loose. It didn't hurt but, I was counting my fingers when it was over.