mx_599
New Member
i am not sure if they have orings or not? regardless, any type of thread prep or not really?
what if part is new? you need to take hard lines off to install rack...I do not necessarily need new orings if the part is new do i?
HOW TO: Steering rack replacement
- Thread starter yellocoyote
- Start date
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i am not sure if they have orings or not? regardless, any type of thread prep or not really?
what if part is new? you need to take hard lines off to install rack...I do not necessarily need new orings if the part is new do i?
DeCaff2007
Full Access Member
old thread holy crap I know but it looks like I'll be doing this on my g/f's jeep in the near future.
rockymountain
Full Access Member
I have some clunky play now in mine. *****, but I think I'll be doing this sooner or later. Only have 71K on mine. When I hit the brakes hard I can hear and feel a clunk when I'm turning slightly. With it jacked up with wheels off the ground I have play in and out of the rack. The bushings seem fine, the rack doesn't shift, but the internals have play. UGH!
PANAGIOTISTK
New Member
Hi i just replaced my steering rack how do i bleed steering systom
Luke
Interloper
Let's bring this one back from the dead ... to answer that question... for posterity 
05 Service Manual - standard procedure initial operation PS Pump
(1) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level
and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes.
(2) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(3) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops at least 20 times.
(4) Check the fluid level add if necessary.
(5) Lower the vehicle, start the engine and turn
the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock.
(6) Stop the engine and check the fluid level and
refill as required.
CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for
an extended period. This may cause pump damage.
(7) If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking,
allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and
repeat the procedure.
(8) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
05 Service Manual - standard procedure initial operation PS Pump
(1) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level
and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes.
(2) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(3) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops at least 20 times.
(4) Check the fluid level add if necessary.
(5) Lower the vehicle, start the engine and turn
the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock.
(6) Stop the engine and check the fluid level and
refill as required.
CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for
an extended period. This may cause pump damage.
(7) If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking,
allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and
repeat the procedure.
(8) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
DeathKnight
New Member
Sorry to necro an old thread but I've got some very useful information to add. I just started doing the steering rack replacement on my mom's 2005 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition. The seal blew on the passenger side and the boot ripped open and started leaking all over. Followed this how-to and got up to the point of trying to fish it out the passenger side. At the nth hour we figured a much easier way to get it out. Just remove the front sway bar entirely and there is tons of room up front (this is assuming you removed the fan). Move the rack to the passenger side enough to get the driver side inner tie rod ahead of the frame and then pull it on down and out. Soooo much easier I couldn't believe it, lol.
Hopefully this will save others a lot of time and trouble :icon_cool:
Hopefully this will save others a lot of time and trouble :icon_cool:
Last edited:
flytonehundred
New Member
Thanks for this!!! I ended up doing this the last couple days, and didn't have much of a problem getting the old one out of the passenger wheel well, but couldn't get the new one in. I had already removed the sway bar, so gave it a shot that way, and it was super easy...
dude1116
Full Access Member
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
That was an incorrect word they used, who the hell is the author of that write up? What you want is a flare nut wrench. A flange wrench is something totally different and unrelated to this project.
Ok, that's kind of what I was guessing lol.
Also what do you guys think is the best grease to use in these aftermarket tie rod ends? I got the Napa ones and they have grease nipples on them. Gotta get a grease gun now lol, going out to Summit racing monday to grab some brakes and a few more things I need for this job as well, including said grease.
Also what do you guys think is the best grease to use in these aftermarket tie rod ends? I got the Napa ones and they have grease nipples on them. Gotta get a grease gun now lol, going out to Summit racing monday to grab some brakes and a few more things I need for this job as well, including said grease.
dude1116
Full Access Member
Good to know. This is on the "Soon" to do list. The Jeep is out of commission for a while. I have a month to get this among other things done before my trip to OBX!
dude1116
Full Access Member
Anyone know if it's completely necessary to remove the outer tie rod ends to feed the rack through? I have two new ones and would love it if I could just leave them attached and not worry about them. Corrosion really takes a turn for the worst on these things...makes the outers extremely difficult to remove.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
I took mine off but if I remember correctly you can fish the rack thru from the passenger side with them attached. What you need to remove are the hard lines attached to the rack. With them off (or at least loosened) the rack can be rotated to be slid into the engine bay.
Bob
dude1116
Full Access Member
Finished this up this weekend and thought I'd add a few hints/ suggestions so anyone else doing this might not have to struggle as much.
Got the old one out per the writeup on page one...did take off driver's side inner tie rod. It seemed like it would've been very hard to get it out with out doing that. Putting the new one in was a *****. Had to take off the front sway bar and driver's side inner tie rod off. I put the rack in from the front. Make sure you keep the steering shaft housing thing to right (facing the front of the Jeep) of that bottom huge pulley. Otherwise you'll never get it past and situated right.
The next worst part was getting the linkage attached. The rack was allegedly centered at factory, but it wasn't. The notch on the input shaft should face the passenger side. Needed a 1/4 turn to get there. But it could be on the passenger side and not be centered if it's off by a full turn or more.
Outside of that, it's the dirty and punishing job it looks like in the writeup. On a good note, the lines all came off easy, make sure to use a good set of flarenut wrenches that won't spread and round stuff off when you least expect it. My Gearwrench set worked great.
Got the old one out per the writeup on page one...did take off driver's side inner tie rod. It seemed like it would've been very hard to get it out with out doing that. Putting the new one in was a *****. Had to take off the front sway bar and driver's side inner tie rod off. I put the rack in from the front. Make sure you keep the steering shaft housing thing to right (facing the front of the Jeep) of that bottom huge pulley. Otherwise you'll never get it past and situated right.
The next worst part was getting the linkage attached. The rack was allegedly centered at factory, but it wasn't. The notch on the input shaft should face the passenger side. Needed a 1/4 turn to get there. But it could be on the passenger side and not be centered if it's off by a full turn or more.
Outside of that, it's the dirty and punishing job it looks like in the writeup. On a good note, the lines all came off easy, make sure to use a good set of flarenut wrenches that won't spread and round stuff off when you least expect it. My Gearwrench set worked great.
CALIKJ
New Member
seized tie rod bolts
Im new to this forum and having the hardest time finding my way around. But im currently replacing my rack and pinion on my 02 kj 4wd. I have it on jack stands already with wheels off. However the 21 mm bolts on my tie rod are seized and rusted. They will not come off with my impact. Next im going to try a breaker bar and some heat. Should i a) try removing them with the breaker bar and a cheater bar and use full force until they come off. Or b) should i remove the 13mm bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack and pinion first and lightly hammer tap the shaft free and then proceed to loosen the 21mm tie rod bolts with full force? Please help thanks
Im new to this forum and having the hardest time finding my way around. But im currently replacing my rack and pinion on my 02 kj 4wd. I have it on jack stands already with wheels off. However the 21 mm bolts on my tie rod are seized and rusted. They will not come off with my impact. Next im going to try a breaker bar and some heat. Should i a) try removing them with the breaker bar and a cheater bar and use full force until they come off. Or b) should i remove the 13mm bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack and pinion first and lightly hammer tap the shaft free and then proceed to loosen the 21mm tie rod bolts with full force? Please help thanks
