Iron Rock Rear A-Arm

[JeepJeepster]

Seems I say this a lot, but I wish I wouldve done this along time ago. Ive yet to drive it after installing it, but Ive had a wondering issue for many years. If this doesnt fix it, Im thinking I have a bad steering rack. The lower rear control arms have already been replaced.

The bushings on the a-arm dont look that bad, but it seems the rubber around the ball joint is loose. Its hard to put much force on the ball joint, but it seems to move too much.

Anyway, this thing was sortve a bear to install. After fighting that big bolt on the rear diff for way too long, a ratchet strap made quick work of getting things lined up. Unfortunately I couldnt find my angle finder, so I had to take a quick trip to buy another one... It was only off 1 degree, but shes dead on with the tcase now.

Im curious how the joints on the uni-frame will do. The 'ball socket' isnt a tight fit around the factory bolt and is actually threaded inside. The threads are much bigger than the factory bolt, so its strictly a friction fit. Seems it would be a much better setup to have the ball socket be a tight fit around the bolt like the factory setup is....

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Also installed the PML trans pan. Towing a camper to the smokies this weekend and Im highly curious to see if the trans temps are lower than last time... Anyone want a dorman pan with a **** welded in it for a temp probe?

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[Johnny O]

I love my IRA A arm, and look forward to installing their LCAs when I put in the OME and JBA parts before winter

 

[JeepJeepster]

Pulled a camper 4.5hrs to the smokies last week and all seemed well. Its hard to tell if the stock a-arm was causing the tail wag while towing (it was white knuckle above 70mph) since I also installed sway control on the camper. I could turn the sway control off and drive it some, but I honestly hate stopping once Im on a trip so I just didnt feel like doing that. Either way, I can pull a camper 80mph+ in 4th gear and shes very stable. No, I do not tow at 80mph, but I tried it just to see. Those 4.10 gears make it world of difference when towing.

There is a small amount of road noise around 30-50mph or so, but other than that, I cant tell a difference at all. Very happy with the upgrade. I have zero driveline vibrations where previously I did. Wish I wouldve checked the pinion angle before removing the stock a-arm.

Trans temps seem to be lower but time will tell. The temps never got over 195F towing a 3500lb camper in 96F through Pigeon Forge and up to 2500' in the Smokies. I wasnt very easy on it on the interstate either, I'll tow in 4th and let the torque converter unlock on the hills and stay in 4th... Only drop into 3rd on the bigger hills.

 

[Dave_too]

Seems I say this a lot, but I wish I wouldve done this along time ago. Ive yet to drive it after installing it, but Ive had a wondering issue for many years. If this doesnt fix it, Im thinking I have a bad steering rack. The lower rear control arms have already been replaced.

The bushings on the a-arm dont look that bad, but it seems the rubber around the ball joint is loose. Its hard to put much force on the ball joint, but it seems to move too much.

Anyway, this thing was sortve a bear to install. After fighting that big bolt on the rear diff for way too long, a ratchet strap made quick work of getting things lined up. Unfortunately I couldnt find my angle finder, so I had to take a quick trip to buy another one... It was only off 1 degree, but shes dead on with the tcase now.

Im curious how the joints on the uni-frame will do. The 'ball socket' isnt a tight fit around the factory bolt and is actually threaded inside. The threads are much bigger than the factory bolt, so its strictly a friction fit. Seems it would be a much better setup to have the ball socket be a tight fit around the bolt like the factory setup is....

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Also installed the PML trans pan. Towing a camper to the smokies this weekend and Im highly curious to see if the trans temps are lower than last time... Anyone want a dorman pan with a **** welded in it for a temp probe?

You must be registered for see images attach

How do you use the angle finder? Is that 3.2 degrees I'm reading a couple of pictures back and is that what you're gunning for there or is that the 1 degree off you refer to? Is that the only critical angle?

Thanks and great pix!

 

[duderz7]

How do you use the angle finder? Is that 3.2 degrees I'm reading a couple of pictures back and is that what you're gunning for there or is that the 1 degree off you refer to? Is that the only critical angle?

Thanks and great pix!

Match angles at both ends of the driveline is the goal.