Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
But what exactly is upgraded, does rear suspension ends up with more articulation?Good upgrade since JBA no longer makes his
Yes it does plus it won’t wear out the bushings every 6 to 8 months. I’ve been running one for about a year now and it’s much better than stock. If you get the optional flex joints, it allows it to transmit more road noise but that’s why I have a 300 watt stereo so I can drown it out. I too had problems with the adjusting nut on the mount to the rear end coming loose so I took a cold chisel and boogered up one thread lightly to stop it from backing off. Locktite didn’t hold itBut what exactly is upgraded, does rear suspension ends up with more articulation?
Are these flex joints worth getting, especially considering the extra road noise?Yes it does plus it won’t wear out the bushings every 6 to 8 months. I’ve been running one for about a year now and it’s much better than stock. If you get the optional flex joints, it allows it to transmit more road noise but that’s why I have a 300 watt stereo so I can drown it out. I too had problems with the adjusting nut on the mount to the rear end coming loose so I took a cold chisel and boogered up one thread lightly to stop it from backing off. Locktite didn’t hold it
Are these flex joints worth getting, especially considering the extra road noiseYes it does plus it won’t wear out the bushings every 6 to 8 months. I’ve been running one for about a year now and it’s much better than stock. If you get the optional flex joints, it allows it to transmit more road noise but that’s why I have a 300 watt stereo so I can drown it out. I too had problems with the adjusting nut on the mount to the rear end coming loose so I took a cold chisel and boogered up one thread lightly to stop it from backing off. Locktite didn’t hold it
Worth every penny. Better bushings and such. Don’t care that it’s adjustable, me.Has anyone used this rear upper control arm, and what are the benefits of it and is it worth while installing?
These pics makes the "stock" uca look cheap...I was only gonna purchase the uca, but now, I'm getting all 3 links. 125 miles a day, on rough country roads, this set up right here has to be a game changer. I did an oem uca replacement in Nov of 2021. 6 months later? Both bushings have torn internally on the front side of the bushing. Obvious that angle change from the height with the OME springs and Bilst shocks stresses these bushing. PROVEN RESULTS HERE! So, wife ain't gonna be happy, cause that changes the budget. But this set up has to be WAY better than the stock version. In my opinion.If I still had a stock A-arm I’d be changing the bushings and ball joint again. It is easier to buy a whole new arm. Mine is still tight with no slop in it. I have the adjustable lower arms too. They have shown no sign of wear yet. My stock lower arms also had the bushings wear out where it attaches to the unibody. When that happens the rear end is able to “walk” around so when you accelerate, the rear end would shift. It would feel like the rear was sliding or you had a low or flat tire. Same thing would happen when you let off the gas or applied the brakes as it would shift the other direction. It was very unnerving to drive even after I got used to it doing that. Again I opted for the flex joints over the stock bushings on the lower arms. I just set the new arm next to the old ones and adjusted them to the same length. After installation you need to get the pinion angle checked to make sure the rear diff and the transmission are on the same plane with each other so you don’t wear out u-joints and pinion bearings and seal. I’ve added pics of the flex joint unassembled and installed. The joint has two poly half’s that encircle the joint and then are clamped together to hold the joint. It kind of resembles a U-joint with only one axis.
What about the extra road noise, is it really noticeable and objectionable at highway speeds that a radio needs to be cranked up?If I still had a stock A-arm I’d be changing the bushings and ball joint again. It is easier to buy a whole new arm. Mine is still tight with no slop in it. I have the adjustable lower arms too. They have shown no sign of wear yet. My stock lower arms also had the bushings wear out where it attaches to the unibody. When that happens the rear end is able to “walk” around so when you accelerate, the rear end would shift. It would feel like the rear was sliding or you had a low or flat tire. Same thing would happen when you let off the gas or applied the brakes as it would shift the other direction. It was very unnerving to drive even after I got used to it doing that. Again I opted for the flex joints over the stock bushings on the lower arms. I just set the new arm next to the old ones and adjusted them to the same length. After installation you need to get the pinion angle checked to make sure the rear diff and the transmission are on the same plane with each other so you don’t wear out u-joints and pinion bearings and seal. I’ve added pics of the flex joint unassembled and installed. The joint has two poly half’s that encircle the joint and then are clamped together to hold the joint. It kind of resembles a U-joint with only one axis.
Love the colorThey only come black as far as I know. I painted mine to liven it up down there !
I run the JBA bolt on set up uppers on two of my KJsWhat about the extra road noise, is it really noticeable and objectionable at highway speeds that a radio needs to be cranked up?