KK Rock Sliders

[AFT2008KK]

Hey all. I just have an add on rock rail question.

Anyone know if a set of rails for say an XJ or WK can be easy adapted to fit a KK?

 

[lfhoward]

Hey all. I just have an add on rock rail question.

Anyone know if a set of rails for say an XJ or WK can be easy adapted to fit a KK?

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These are my KK rock sliders above, in need of rust repair.

To make a rock slider from a different vehicle work would require a lot of cutting and welding to make it fit correctly. Not only would the length be different, but the width/depth and angles of the mounting plates would be different.

 

[AFT2008KK]

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These are my KK rock sliders above, in need of rust repair.

To make a rock slider from a different vehicle work would require a lot of cutting and welding to make it fit correctly. Not only would the length be different, but the width/depth and angles of the mounting plates would be different.

I figured there would be some fabricating to do. Wasn’t sure if using an existing pair would be a good basic starting point. Thats a good pic to base a fabrication plan from. Thank you

 

[lfhoward]

You’re welcome. What’s interesting here is the overall shape is trapezoidal. The KK body is narrower in the rear than in the front. That could make it hard to modify sliders from other vehicles.

It would be easier to buy a set of KK sliders from RRO and then beef up the mounting points (they have only two thin legs which look surprisingly weak). The outer bars of their sliders look like mine and are probably pretty beefy.

 

[lfhoward]

I just priced out 2, 4 foot sections of 1” square steel tube for repairing my sliders. Home Depot has them for $35 a side. Not too bad. I have a grinder and can do all the prep work. I bet a local welder can zip these back together.

I took some photos as I made measurements just now. Pretty good rustage on that 1” tube but great everywhere else.

Passengers side:

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Drivers Side:

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For those of you who are fabricators:
The square tube rusted out from the inside. The only drainage was the open ends, which cannot be closed off because the bolt holes will let water in anyway. Would you drill additional holes in the bottom of the 1” tube as drains, and would that keep my rock sliders 2.0 from rusting out as quickly? Granted, it took 11 years for them to get this bad, so even if I didn’t have drain holes, the sliders will probably outlive the Jeep.

 

[Antony807]

I'd be tempted to switch the tube with an angle iron with a heavier thickness, 1/4" or more.

Otherwise you could cut a section of the middle out to leave open to drain. Depends where the mounting holes are, hard to tell from the photo if there are any in the middle area.

 

[lfhoward]

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There are 4 mounting holes on each 4’ section of tube. Only 3 were ever used. They go through the pinch seam indicated by blue arrows. The square tube sits to the outside of the pinch seam. One of the advantages of a flat topped square tube over angle iron is that it would spread an impact from below over a 4’x1” area on the body, rather than 1/8” as wide an area with angle iron. I guess both methods have their pros and cons.

 

[tommudd]

I'd be tempted to switch the tube with an angle iron with a heavier thickness, 1/4" or more.

Otherwise you could cut a section of the middle out to leave open to drain. Depends where the mounting holes are, hard to tell from the photo if there are any in the middle area.

I wouldn't switch the square tube for angle
May last longer ( in some cases ) but would not hold up the same if actually using them
There was a huge discussion on this back in the early 2000s

 

[lfhoward]

I wouldn't switch the square tube for angle
May last longer ( in some cases ) but would not hold up the same if actually using them
There was a huge discussion on this back in the early 2000s

I’m imagining you, Rock Lizard, Troy, USAFcop debating this. Thinking some folks had some strong opinions, LOL.

 

[Luke]

I’m imagining you, Rock Lizard, Troy, USAFcop debating this. Thinking some folks had some strong opinions, LOL.

Y’think?

 

[AFT2008KK]

You’re welcome. What’s interesting here is the overall shape is trapezoidal. The KK body is narrower in the rear than in the front. That could make it hard to modify sliders from other vehicles.

It would be easier to buy a set of KK sliders from RRO and then beef up the mounting points (they have only two thin legs which look surprisingly weak). The outer bars of their sliders look like mine and are probably pretty beefy.

Makes sense. Definitely in line with the idea. More research to be done. Thats part of the adventure.

 

[tommudd]

The

I’m imagining you, Rock Lizard, Troy, USAFcop debating this. Thinking some folks had some strong opinions, LOL.

good old days were interesting for sure, miss them
If it was still like back then, Id be more motivated to keep at least one KJ

 

[AFT2008KK]

The

good old days were interesting for sure, miss them
If it was still like back then, Id be more motivated to keep at least one KJ

Definitely miss when there were multiple options. I’m a “few” years late to the KK world.

Ours has been in family since new. It’s always been more than capable off trail. Just going to have to be creative getting it to next level.

Maybe the Jeep world will rediscover them? Or not.

Let the fun continue.

 

[lfhoward]

^^^ copying and pasting my words from my original post, dude

 

[lfhoward]

I picked up some steel today for the rock slider repairs.

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Seems to be identical to what was on there before. It is 1/16 but it should last another 10+ years based on version #1.

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I have an angle grinder I can use to remove the old rusty tube and clean up the work surface. I also have my eye on a simple flux core welder and PPE at Harbor Freight that could fit inside my budget next month. From there I would need to practice on some scrap steel and get to the point where I can do a reasonable weld.

 

[AFT2008KK]

I picked up some steel today for the rock slider repairs.

You must be registered for see images attach

Seems to be identical to what was on there before. It is 1/16 but it should last another 10+ years based on version #1.

You must be registered for see images attach

I have an angle grinder I can use to remove the old rusty tube and clean up the work surface. I also have my eye on a simple flux core welder and PPE at Harbor Freight that could fit inside my budget next month. From there I would need to practice on some scrap steel and get to the point where I can do a reasonable weld.

Looks like a good match. Will follow along to see how the HF gear works out.

 

[lfhoward]

This is what I am thinking about getting. It is light, portable, runs on 120V, and doesn’t need gas because it’s flux core. It can’t do incredibly complicated stuff, but should be good for welding 1/16” steel onto my rock sliders and for odd welding jobs that come up at home. Does anyone have experience with this little welder?

https://www.harborfreight.com/easy-flux-125-amp-welder-57861.html?_br_psugg_q=mig+welder

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[Jeremy-WI]

Looks a lot like the Lincoln I bought a long time ago, worked good on light steel

 

[KJowner]

^^^ copying and pasting my words from my original post, dude

Bot I bet, just waiting for the advertisements to start.

 

[lfhoward]

Bot I bet, just waiting for the advertisements to start.

Then it’s ban time.