lockers

[Rokk]

Air Locker Differential Dana 30, 27 SPL, 3.73 & UP RD100

Air Locker

store.arbusa.com

I just found this locker for sale at arb for jeep liberty, this should be something that works for the liberty, but is it fine to have a fully locking differential for the front differential? Or is it something I should avoid doing due to how the front end is constructed(strength issues)

I put one in because I often explore solo, so I want to make sure I don’t get stuck. It’s a last resort. I also like to modify my own vehicles so it took very little effort to convince myself. You should be aware that Ifs is subject to many failure points( ball joints, tie-rods, cv axles) and the d30a is weak and using a locker will put more stress everywhere. That being said, if you don’t wanna break things, stay on pavement.

 

[u2slow]

but is it fine to have a fully locking differential for the front differential? Or is it something I should avoid doing due to how the front end is constructed(strength issues)

Depends. I would say auto lockers like a lockright or spartan are more likely to shock-load and cause damage. Something with smoother or controllable engagement should be less likely to cause harm. I ran a No-Slip for this reason. Didn't harm anything in the 3 yrs or so that I ran it.

 

[KingKJ]

Depends. I would say auto lockers like a lockright or spartan are more likely to shock-load and cause damage. Something with smoother or controllable engagement should be less likely to cause harm. I ran a No-Slip for this reason. Didn't harm anything in the 3 yrs or so that I ran it.

yeah, theoretically the front end would be locked the least as well as locked/unlocked at a full stop, I'm just making sure it won't damage anything while locked.

 

[duderz7]

yeah, theoretically the front end would be locked the least as well as locked/unlocked at a full stop, I'm just making sure it won't damage anything while locked.

The damage usually happens when you get a front wheel off the ground spinning at high rpm and then suddenly coming down and getting traction or when the differential moves power from one wheel to the other quickly under power such as high rpm through mud or snow. If driven responsibly you should be able to avoid these or negate these scenarios with a locker or limited slip.

 

[u2slow]

yeah, theoretically the front end would be locked the least as well as locked/unlocked at a full stop, I'm just making sure it won't damage anything while locked.

I fear you can't "make sure".

Mine (No-Slip) didn't damage anything in the time I ran it.

 

[Chris Lepper]

I guess it depends on your comfort level with fairly technical mechanical work. I do all my own wrenching with no formal training so occasionally fail or learn a hard lesson. That said, I did install both diffs in my Liberty having never done it before. Won't say it was easy but I did have fun doing it and both turned out great. I don't think you need a diff expander. Chinese dial indicators and magnetic bases can be bought for $30 or $40 and they work just fine.

For the rear diff you'll need a special tool for the side adjusters - pretty cheap to buy or you can make one out of a piece of 1/2 black iron pipe and a threaded reducer pipe fitting (there are other designs out there). You also need to be able to press the new side bearings on to the diff - I have a hydraulic press but I guess you might be able to use a big vice. If you're going to replace the pinion bearing (a good idea if you have any significant miles on your axle) you'll need a BIG torque wrench (150 ft/lb I think) and some creativity to stop the yolk turning as you torque and a TINY torque wrench (10 to 20 in/lb I think) to fine tune the bearing loading. You'll also need to use a cutting wheel to cut the old pinion bearing off the yolk - tricky.

For the front diff you need to take the axle out of the vehicle which can be a challenge in itself. The Dana 30 uses a different method to adjust backlash which requires you to make (or buy) setup bearings (you ream out the inside so that they slide on and off the diff easily) - once you have the thickness of shims figured out behind each setup bearing (you need a stack of different thickness shims to try until you get it right) you press the real bearings on with the shims installed. I opted to not replace my pinion bearing (prev owner rarely if ever used 4wd so I reconned the original bearing had just been idling it's whole life) so didn't have to deal with that on the front so not sure of that process with the Dana 30.

I would get on youtube if I were you and watch a bunch of videos to help decide if you want to do it yourself. You should probably plan to have your vehicle out of commission for a few weeks - when I did it some things were broke, some bolts sheared during disassembly and I found other parts that had to be replaced as I removed the front axle - I was waiting for parts to be delivered that I hadn't anticipated changing.

Good luck!

I went ahead and bought the bearings you suggested (Alfa) what did you use to ream them out and how careful do I need to be?

 

[Shankster]

I went ahead and bought the bearings you suggested (Alfa) what did you use to ream them out and how careful do I need to be?

I used a die grinder. A Dremel might work too. I'd wait till you have your LSD before diving in. Just keep taking a little off till they slip onto the LSD. Run the die grinder around and around inside the bore of the bearings.

 

[Chris Lepper]

I used a die grinder. A Dremel might work too. I'd wait till you have your LSD before diving in. Just keep taking a little off till they slip onto the LSD. Run the die grinder around and around inside the bore of the bearings.

Thanks, Did you have any trouble with the bearing spinning while your grinding, or did you vise it up?

 

[Shankster]

Thanks, Did you have any trouble with the bearing spinning while your grinding, or did you vise it up?

I don't remember. If that bearing comes apart easily (again I don't remember) you could just hold the inner part in your left hand and die grinder in right. If it's one that stays together just go with the flow and let it spin - the die grinder will spin way faster anyway and should ensure you get even grinding all the way around. And once the bearing starts spinning, reverse the direction you're turning the die grinder inside the bore. I don't think I would use a vice - seems to me you'd lose the "feel" that comes with doing it with both your hands. I have several die grinder bits - I think I went with one with straight sides but rounded on the end to avoid gouging a line inside the bearing but it probably doesn't matter considering what you're using the bearing for.

 

[NewKJMudder]

I'm looking for lockers for front and rear for my liberty and am wondering where I can buy them and will they be compatible if I regear to 4.10
Does anyone have some links to where I can buy them or some estimated costs? I'd like to keep it as budget friendly as possible but also don't want to cheap out and put bad parts into the vehicle.

Have you seen the Powertrax lockers, from what I read they work great for mud or crawling. I believe you do not have to regear it

 

[Chris Lepper]

I don't remember. If that bearing comes apart easily (again I don't remember) you could just hold the inner part in your left hand and die grinder in right. If it's one that stays together just go with the flow and let it spin - the die grinder will spin way faster anyway and should ensure you get even grinding all the way around. And once the bearing starts spinning, reverse the direction you're turning the die grinder inside the bore. I don't think I would use a vice - seems to me you'd lose the "feel" that comes with doing it with both your hands. I have several die grinder bits - I think I went with one with straight sides but rounded on the end to avoid gouging a line inside the bearing but it probably doesn't matter considering what you're using the bearing for.

Thanks for the Help.

 

[Chris Lepper]

I don't remember. If that bearing comes apart easily (again I don't remember) you could just hold the inner part in your left hand and die grinder in right. If it's one that stays together just go with the flow and let it spin - the die grinder will spin way faster anyway and should ensure you get even grinding all the way around. And once the bearing starts spinning, reverse the direction you're turning the die grinder inside the bore. I don't think I would use a vice - seems to me you'd lose the "feel" that comes with doing it with both your hands. I have several die grinder bits - I think I went with one with straight sides but rounded on the end to avoid gouging a line inside the bearing but it probably doesn't matter considering what you're using the bearing for.

Well That didn't take long. About an hour per bearing. And they push on very nicely. Thanks for all the wisdom!

 

[Jeremy6305]

Not likely. It's a special diff cover on the KJ.

I ran a powetrax no-slip for a while. It's a lunchbox style so works with any ratio.

The full-carrier replacement locker (i.e. TrueTrac) is a more involved install. The carrier break is 3.54- and 3.73+ for the Dana 30.

The carriers are interchangeable with the Dana 30 carrier. KJ housing is referred to as a Dana super 30 and other than the obvious ifs and aluminum housing it is the pinion shaft that is different. So, any Dana 30 carrier will work but the gears will not and super 30 4:1 are few and far between. May have better luck looking 4:11 as I have seen some labeled 4:11 with availability.

 

[Chris Lepper]

The carriers are interchangeable with the Dana 30 carrier. KJ housing is referred to as a Dana super 30 and other than the obvious ifs and aluminum housing it is the pinion shaft that is different. So, any Dana 30 carrier will work but the gears will not and super 30 4:1 are few and far between. May have better luck looking 4:11 as I have seen some labeled 4:11 with availability.

Good to know. I've seen the KJ referred to as the 30A, 30IFS, and now super 30

 

[Jeremy6305]

Good to know. I've seen the KJ referred to as the 30A, 30IFS, and now super 30

Dana Spicer refers to it as the super 30. Chrysler makes the 30a reference due to the aluminum housing and of course you know the ifs is just denoting the independent front suspension but it seems to reference Cherokee more often.

 

[u2slow]

The carriers are interchangeable with the Dana 30 carrier. KJ housing is referred to as a Dana super 30 and other than the obvious ifs and aluminum housing it is the pinion shaft that is different. So, any Dana 30 carrier will work but the gears will not and super 30 4:1 are few and far between. May have better luck looking 4:11 as I have seen some labeled 4:11 with availability.

Agreed. Carrier is the same.

The cover is what I'm talking about possibly being different.