I have a 2005 Liberty Sport and the low beams won't come on. I have checked and changed fuses, wires and the headlight switch. I can't find the low beam relay. Does anybody know where this is or what my problem is??
Low Beams Don't Work!
- Thread starter zachw0903
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yellocoyote
Administrator
Had this happen in my old Ranger once... replacing the bulbs fixed the problem.
Corwyyn
Full Access Member
There is a relay, and it is located on the back side of the junction block (which is where the fuse block is located). Here is a diagram of where it is:
The area outlined in blue is the fuse block that you see when you remove the cover from the end of the dash on the driver's side, and the yellow box is where the BCM (body control module) is mounted. Here is a photo of the fuse block:
The red outline is the end of the BCM, and the green dashed outline is where the low beam relay is located - the black object near the top corner of the BCM is the high-beam relay. In order to actually see the low beam relay you'll need to get your head down where the brake and gas pedals are and look up into that corner with a light. Not sure how much room there is to get in there and replace it, hopefully you won't need to get someone with small hands to help
It looks like you can swap out the high beam relay for the low beam and test to see if they work; if they do then you'll know what to pick up at the local parts store.
You must be registered for see images attach
The area outlined in blue is the fuse block that you see when you remove the cover from the end of the dash on the driver's side, and the yellow box is where the BCM (body control module) is mounted. Here is a photo of the fuse block:
You must be registered for see images attach
The red outline is the end of the BCM, and the green dashed outline is where the low beam relay is located - the black object near the top corner of the BCM is the high-beam relay. In order to actually see the low beam relay you'll need to get your head down where the brake and gas pedals are and look up into that corner with a light. Not sure how much room there is to get in there and replace it, hopefully you won't need to get someone with small hands to help
It looks like you can swap out the high beam relay for the low beam and test to see if they work; if they do then you'll know what to pick up at the local parts store.brucebotti
Full Access Member
There is a relay, and it is located on the back side of the junction block (which is where the fuse block is located). Here is a diagram of where it is:
You must be registered for see images attach
The area outlined in blue is the fuse block that you see when you remove the cover from the end of the dash on the driver's side, and the yellow box is where the BCM (body control module) is mounted. Here is a photo of the fuse block:
You must be registered for see images attach
The red outline is the end of the BCM, and the green dashed outline is where the low beam relay is located - the black object near the top corner of the BCM is the high-beam relay. In order to actually see the low beam relay you'll need to get your head down where the brake and gas pedals are and look up into that corner with a light. Not sure how much room there is to get in there and replace it, hopefully you won't need to get someone with small hands to help
Wow! Great answer. It doesn't get any clearer than that!
That is a GREAT ANSWER!
Thank you for that answer! That is exactly what I've spent the last 5 days looking for on the internet, and calling dealers and other mechanics.
P.S.
I've had my head under there for hours a day, pulling relays and switching them out, but you can't easily get up that far, so now I can try that too.
Thank you for that answer! That is exactly what I've spent the last 5 days looking for on the internet, and calling dealers and other mechanics.
P.S.
I've had my head under there for hours a day, pulling relays and switching them out, but you can't easily get up that far, so now I can try that too.
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Someone mentioned bulbs and the liklihood of two bulbs going out at exactly the same time is very unlikely. Since you changed the relay, you might start considering the combination switch itself. This one might be worth taking to a mechanic if you can't trace it. Electrical problems like this are often inexpensive to fix, but a b*tch to figure out, so all of your cost is in labor trying to locate it.
Atrus
Full Access Member
I'm going to guess the multi-switch. Have you checked to ensure that's functioing properly?
Corwyyn
Full Access Member
Looks like he has already done thw switch:
If the wires are good (no signs of heat damage to the insulation, nicks, cuts), the relay has been checked, fuses and bulbs replaced then it is probably time to bite the bullet and go to a mechanic. As mentioned finding electrical issues can be a PITA and often it's easier all around to have someone with experience do the work for you.
If the wires are good (no signs of heat damage to the insulation, nicks, cuts), the relay has been checked, fuses and bulbs replaced then it is probably time to bite the bullet and go to a mechanic. As mentioned finding electrical issues can be a PITA and often it's easier all around to have someone with experience do the work for you.
hey man ill have to agree with him, I just like you tried everything to get my signals to work but I gave up I'm just gonna take it to a mechanic
Electrical problems can get frustrating in I get pissed really easy when something doesn't work like I think it should
Thanks for all the replies. I had the wires checked and tested today it seems like a bad ground somewhere, so it looks like it's time to take it in.
I did find out that there has been some POS aftermarket alarm installed at some point, and I'm thinking that one of the connections went bad when they took it out.
Ry' N Jen
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Thanks for all the replies. I had the wires checked and tested today it seems like a bad ground somewhere, so it looks like it's time to take it in.
Slightly off topic, but I had one high beam "Day Time Running Light that was out of wack for the longest time.
A new Multi-function switch (And stock fog lights to boot!) solved it.
kb0nly
Full Access Member
Thanks for all the replies. I had the wires checked and tested today it seems like a bad ground somewhere, so it looks like it's time to take it in.
Check all the wiring under the dash associated with the multi-function switch and the lights around the steering column and the fuse block. I bet they spliced in something and caused problems. What i see most of the time is a knick in the wire where they used one of those quick taps, aka a scotchlok, and after they removed it that leaves a weak spot in the wire that flexes and eventually breaks.
Someone with a schematic can confirm, but i assume the MFS turns on the power to the relay coil rather than switching the coils ground? If that's the case i would try taking a small test lead and sticking it into the ground terminal for the relay and then plug the relay in along with it, just to wedge it in there for a test, then ground that lead and check the lights again. If that works then just trace the ground wire in the harness that goes to the relay's ground terminal. I went through that with a bad cooling fan relay on the minivan we had, i ended up leaving that test lead in there for about a month until i had time to tear the relay panel apart to get in there and find out i had a corroded connection that came apart.
Since your high beams work then you don't have a problem with the ground to the lights under the hood.
You could also do a quick test of the power wiring by pulling the relay and using a jumper from the supply terminal to the output terminal to see if the lights come on, but you swapped the relay so that rules that out.
When the wiring was checked did they check that the coil power to trigger the relay switched on and off with the switch?? If that doesn't work then it could still be a problem with the switch.
I'm no stranger to electrical problems, troubleshooting, and repair.
I checked both the low beam terminals at the fuse box, where the low beam fuses are, and there was no power there. High beams read okay.
I bought a new multi switch, because I was told that was the problem, of course the same guy told me that the 2005 Liberty doesn't have a Low Beam Relay. I didn't work. New bulbs, new relay, new fuses, new switch. I'm taking her to the hospital, er mechanic, just want to be armed with knowledge so they don't try to bend me over.;0
I bought a new multi switch, because I was told that was the problem, of course the same guy told me that the 2005 Liberty doesn't have a Low Beam Relay. I didn't work. New bulbs, new relay, new fuses, new switch. I'm taking her to the hospital, er mechanic, just want to be armed with knowledge so they don't try to bend me over.;0
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Ry' N Jen
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Electrical Gremlins sure are fun ain't they?
I would have to say that if it is not a relay, it could very possibly be a dodgy ground.
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Don't feed 'em after midnight!
Ry' N Jen
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Atrus
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IIRC, the headlights come on if the multi-switch is fully grounded. To have only parking lights on, a certain resistance is applied. I ran into this when I put in my remote starter and wanted only parking lights on. Full ground on the wire turned on headlights. So, an insufficient ground could be the culprit.
The BCM could be seeing a certain resistance due to bad ground and thinking that only the parking light position is selected.
The BCM could be seeing a certain resistance due to bad ground and thinking that only the parking light position is selected.
kb0nly
Full Access Member
The reason you wouldn't see power at the fuses for the low beams is because power isn't being sent through the relay though.
Power comes to the relay, when the relay is switched it goes from the relay to the fuses, and then each fuse feeds one light, left or right. So if you don't have power at the fuses then you don't have power from the relay!! See what i'm saying?
Did you pull the relay and actually check for power at the input of the relay, and also check the power and ground for the relay coil?
Best way would be to find a ground for your test light, or VOM, check the input terminal of the relay, if thats good then check the positive terminal for the relay coil, if thats good then either use a VOM and check for continuity from the relay coil ground terminal to another body ground, or take your test light and put the negative into the relay coil ground terminal and the probe tip to one of the positives that you just tested that worked fine with the test lights ground to another spot.
If all those test out fine, and the signal to the relay coil turns on and off with the switch then you have a broken wire or connection somewhere else. I've troubleshooted worse! Try going through a 50 pair cable with a test light, a wire tracer, and a VOM. Been there done that.. (50 pair aka 100 wires!!)
Power comes to the relay, when the relay is switched it goes from the relay to the fuses, and then each fuse feeds one light, left or right. So if you don't have power at the fuses then you don't have power from the relay!! See what i'm saying?
Did you pull the relay and actually check for power at the input of the relay, and also check the power and ground for the relay coil?
Best way would be to find a ground for your test light, or VOM, check the input terminal of the relay, if thats good then check the positive terminal for the relay coil, if thats good then either use a VOM and check for continuity from the relay coil ground terminal to another body ground, or take your test light and put the negative into the relay coil ground terminal and the probe tip to one of the positives that you just tested that worked fine with the test lights ground to another spot.
If all those test out fine, and the signal to the relay coil turns on and off with the switch then you have a broken wire or connection somewhere else. I've troubleshooted worse! Try going through a 50 pair cable with a test light, a wire tracer, and a VOM. Been there done that.. (50 pair aka 100 wires!!)
