Me and My '05 Limited, Riding On Air

[Jim McClain]

Thanks Tom. I'm glad you posted so quickly because I had just ordered the ball joint and bushings from Amazon. I canceled and hope it was soon enough - it prob'ly was. Even if it wasn't, I can return them. Time isn't critical in my case. I'll be collecting parts for a little while longer.

I edited the list above and in my first post.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Are you sure your rear UCA is bad? Mopar ones are the best bet....aftermarket ones have too soft of a bushing material. I'm still on my factory one with 160k, 80k lifted. I got an extra one from a junkyard with 60k on it for $50 a year ago, better than the $400 for a new one.

 

[Jim McClain]

Are you sure your rear UCA is bad? Mopar ones are the best bet....aftermarket ones have too soft of a bushing material. I'm still on my factory one with 160k, 80k lifted. I got an extra one from a junkyard with 60k on it for $50 a year ago, better than the $400 for a new one.

I haven't actually inspected my rear UCA. My lift plan has been to replace all the suspension bushings and ball joints so everything will be fresh and the new geometry will not create noises and other problems that I will wish I had solved when I had the chance. The ball joint and bushings of the rear UCA were part of that plan until someone pointed out the fragility of the UCA - the ease of which it can be damaged trying to remove and replace those parts - so I decided to order the whole UCA (it's on the list - I haven't ordered it yet).

Moog has been touted in many automotive circles, including with my mechanic, as a manufacturer of quality parts, so I added the Moog RK621376 Control Arm to my list, which is only $100.00 (+/-). Had it been suggested I only use Mopar, I might have had second thoughts. The cheapest I've found is about 360.00, not including shipping.

I live in very rural Northern California. The closest Jeep parts dealer is 80 miles away. I didn't want to have my Jeep tore apart and find out I would be without transportation for an additional 2 or 3 days waiting on new parts - and then the cost would be closer to the 515.00 MSRP point.

S'pose I gamble the hunert bucks on the Moog replacement and save the original UCA in case the Moog fails too soon?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

That could be an idea.

Ask Tom- I think he had a few aftermarket ones and got only a few months from them.

 

[tommudd]

Most MOOG parts are good
BUT for rear UCA only MOPAR

 

[Jim McClain]

Most MOOG parts are good
BUT for rear UCA only MOPAR

Okay, the rear UCA is off the list. I'm gonna hope the existing UCA is in good shape. If not, I will order a MOPAR one and have it installed later.

Parts came in 4 different boxes and 2 different days this week. The ball joint and bushings I cancelled arrived, but Amazon gave me a refund already and sent me an RMA and packing slip to return them. I drove right up to a UPS truck while I was in town and handed them to the driver.

The 4 coil spring isolators arrived a couple days ago. I made the mistake of unpacking them and putting them on the counter. Man, those things stink bad. My whole apartment smells now. I don't know what's in the rubber they make them with, but it's nasty.

The coil spring isolators for the rear came in today. No odor at all. So, I took all the parts that came this week down to my storage unit. The shelf is filling up pretty good. I think all that's left to get is in red below.

FRONT:

• Coilover Assembly
  • OME 2927 front Coil Springs (in)
  • OME 90009 struts (in)
  • Moog K3189 & K3190 Front Strut Mounts (in)
  • Moog K3186 Coil Spring Insulators [4] (in)
  • JBA Strut Spacer Plate Set (in)
• JBA Upper Control Arms (in)
• 1903200 TeraFlex Bump Stops (in)
• Moog K200161 Sway Bar Bushing Kit (in)
• Moog K7391 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit (in)
• Moog K80767 front lower Ball Joints
• Moog K7389 front lower Control Arm Bushing
• JBA SS Brake Hose kit for 2½" lift [front & rear]

REAR:

• Y-Link Extension (in)
• Rear Bump Stops [4 hockey pucks] (in)
• OME N132L Shocks (in)
• OME 2948 rear Coil Springs (in)
• Rear lower coil spring isolators [2] (in)
• Rear upper coil spring isolators [4] (in)

I edited the list in my first post. Please let me know if something is missing from the list, or is on the list that shouldn't be.

 

[Jim McClain]

While I was in Reno today, I stopped at a driveline shop I did business with a long time ago and asked about the u-joints on my Jeep. I want to replace them after the lift and I have done a little research already, so I wanted to see how their information compared. They use a brand of u-joint I'm not familiar with, but he said they were made in the USA. I didn't recognize the name and don't remember what the name was now. But that wasn't what had my eyebrows lifting.

The guy said I should consider having the CV joints replaced - or the CV Half Shafts replaced. He said a lift would put them at a sharper angle and causes them to wear out quickly. I haven't heard anyone mention CV joints or shafts in relation to lifting the KJ, so I wasn't sure this guy knew what he was talking about.

Then he said the Jeep Liberty isn't really meant to be lifted. It's just a glorified SUV with 4WD, so I might be disappointed after spending so much money on parts. He thought spacer lifts would be just as suitable.

I ended the conversation at that point and know I will never go back. But the talk about CV joints/shafts has me curious. Any comments or information about that would be appreciated.

Jim

 

[GunnerSchenck]

JBA has cut driveshafts for lifted liberties.
No market vehicle is "meant" to be lifted or they'd have done it themselves and charged the customer a pretty penny for it.
That being said, of course there are some that are more capable and practical to modify.. but that's what they are is modifications.. doing something that the factory didn't think it was meant for..

Just remember.. to anyone who doesn't drive a jeep, of it doesn't look like a box Cherokee or wrangler, then it's not a jeep.
There's an even more slighted view on the liberty itself.


My $0.02 say nay good sir, and take advice from a less biased individual...
Though everyone on this site is biased in the opposite direction.
Why? because JEEP!!

 

[GunnerSchenck]

It's just a glorified SUV with 4WD

At least it's glorified though right?! (kneel)

 

[HoosierJeeper]

You should be just fine with stock CVs.

 

[tommudd]

JBA has cut driveshafts for lifted liberties.
No market vehicle is "meant" to be lifted or they'd have done it themselves and charged the customer a pretty penny for it.
That being said, of course there are some that are more capable and practical to modify.. but that's what they are is modifications.. doing something that the factory didn't think it was meant for..

Just remember.. to anyone who doesn't drive a jeep, of it doesn't look like a box Cherokee or wrangler, then it's not a jeep.
There's an even more slighted view on the liberty itself.


My $0.02 say nay good sir, and take advice from a less biased individual...
Though everyone on this site is biased in the opposite direction.
Why? because JEEP!!

JBA has cut CVs not cut driveshafts

 

[tommudd]

While I was in Reno today, I stopped at a driveline shop I did business with a long time ago and asked about the u-joints on my Jeep. I want to replace them after the lift and I have done a little research already, so I wanted to see how their information compared. They use a brand of u-joint I'm not familiar with, but he said they were made in the USA. I didn't recognize the name and don't remember what the name was now. But that wasn't what had my eyebrows lifting.

The guy said I should consider having the CV joints replaced - or the CV Half Shafts replaced. He said a lift would put them at a sharper angle and causes them to wear out quickly. I haven't heard anyone mention CV joints or shafts in relation to lifting the KJ, so I wasn't sure this guy knew what he was talking about.

Then he said the Jeep Liberty isn't really meant to be lifted. It's just a glorified SUV with 4WD, so I might be disappointed after spending so much money on parts. He thought spacer lifts would be just as suitable.

I ended the conversation at that point and know I will never go back. But the talk about CV joints/shafts has me curious. Any comments or information about that would be appreciated.

Jim

Another person who doesn't have a clue
The main 4X4 shop in Toledo Ohio din't like KJs nor would work on them.
I'd stop in every now and again when I'd change the suspension just to make them look!
When I did the coilover and on 32s/4.10s over 4 inches of lift went in under the pretense that I needed a new tow rope. Came back out to find all of the techs and 2 sales people in and around the KJ. Wanting to know who I had lift it etc . I told them I did all the lifts around since they were scared of them. One of the main guys wanted to know if I'd share any secrets to lifting them, yes I will 100 an hour :happy175:

 

[GunnerSchenck]

JBA has cut CVs not cut driveshafts

Weerrpppss lol, typing to fast :emotions34:

 

[wheeee32]

Haha!:happy175::happy175:

 

[Jim McClain]

First Assembly

Today I dropped off the coilover assembly parts at the local Les Schwab. These are not the folks who will be doing my lift. In fact, they informed be they can't do the lift because of liability issues. That wasn't a concern for me because I had already decided on who was going to do the actual lift work. But Les Schwab did agree to assemble the coilover parts.

My parts list has been revised a little more. I added the LCA bushings (3 total, each side). Those are the only parts that haven't arrived yet. I got the stainless steel brake hose kit in last week. I updated my first post and here is the updated list (red=not in yet):

FRONT:

• Coilover Assembly
  • OME 2927 front Coil Springs (in)
  • OME 90009 struts (in)
  • Moog K3189 & K3190 Front Strut Mounts (in)
  • Moog K3186 Coil Spring Insulators [4] (in)
• JBA Strut Spacer Plate Set (in)
• JBA Upper Control Arms (in)
• 1903200 TeraFlex Bump Stops (in)
• Moog K200161 Sway Bar Bushing Kit (in)
• Moog K7391 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit (in)
• Moog K80767 front lower Ball Joints (in)
• Moog K7389 rear lower Control Arm Bushings
• Moog K200258 front lower Control Arm Bushing
• JBA SS Brake Hose kit for 2½" lift [front & rear] (in)

REAR:

• Y-Link Extension (in)
• Rear Bump Stops [4 hockey pucks] (in)
• OME N132L Shocks (in)
• OME 2948 rear Coil Springs (in)
• Rear lower coil spring isolators [2] (in)
• Rear upper coil spring isolators [4] (in)

This should be the final revision to the list, but if you think something should be added, or see an issue with something on the list, please speak up. I value the support and feedback here.

If the plan comes together soon (I'm hoping the lift will happen the first week of the new year), there will still be several months of ice and snow on the local roads. I think the wisest thing I can do is to find larger tires for my stock 17" wheels that can be studded. Those will then become my Winter wheels & tires. That will also give me more time to save for the wheel & tire combo I want for the rest of the year.

These are the studable tires I've looked at so far:

Maxxis MT-762 Bighorn LT245/70R17
Mastercraft Courser MXT LT245/75R17
Goodyear Duratrac 245/75R17

The Duratracs are the most expensive, but they also appear to have the best siping, a few more pinned stud locations and maybe the better quality. All of them are so close to a thousand bucks (for 5) that the price difference is mostly negligible.

I s'pose the discussion about my wheel and tire selections should be saved for the Wheel & Tires forum, but for me, this is all part of the overall lifted KJ dynamic.

 

[KJ604]

Go with duratracs Jim. We finally got our first snow
They are amazing.

 

[tommudd]

Second on the Duratracs , great on road ( just keep them rotated every 3000 miles) and great in the snow . I hardly ever used 4 wheel drive when I had the Duratracs on.
Winter before that I had tried giving the BFG ATs another chance, but after needing to run 4 wheel drive any time there were more than 6 flakes of snow on the road I wemt with the Duratracs and so happy I did

 

[wheeee32]

Second on the Duratracs , great on road ( just keep them rotated every 3000 miles) and great in the snow . I hardly ever used 4 wheel drive when I had the Duratracs on.
Winter before that I had tried giving the BFG ATs another chance, but after needing to run 4 wheel drive any time there were more than 6 flakes of snow on the road I wemt with the Duratracs and so happy I did

Third on the Duratracs. They do great in the snow.

 

[Cardhu]

These are the studable tires I've looked at so far:

Maxxis MT-762 Bighorn LT245/70R17
Mastercraft Courser MXT LT245/75R17
Goodyear Duratrac 245/75R17

The Duratracs are the most expensive, but they also appear to have the best siping, a few more pinned stud locations and maybe the better quality. All of them are so close to a thousand bucks (for 5) that the price difference is mostly negligible.

I s'pose the discussion about my wheel and tire selections should be saved for the Wheel & Tires forum, but for me, this is all part of the overall lifted KJ dynamic.

The 245 75 17s you got picked are a tad taller than the 245 70 17 i'd recommend without a regear and being 10 ply load E.

Unless your super attached to your rims i'd consider 16's in either 265 70 16 or 245 75 16 load C. Even with the 245 75 16 6 plys I hated life without 4th in dead flat MB. If this is a long term build I'd definitely be 410s before a second set of rubber and rims.

The duratracs are pretty stellar in the snow, not sure if i'd go studs but I run them on the minivan but never saw the need for the jeep. If you do stud them than you won't notice the tire noise the duratracs make.

I see more snow than 90% of this forum and those were great one set year round for me.

edit: just saw they now make 255 70 16 duratracs twobobs ran that size(not duratracs) before the reagear. might be able to tell you how they felt.

 

[Jim McClain]

The 245 75 17s you got picked are a tad taller than the 245 70 17 i'd recommend without a regear and being 10 ply load E.

Unless your super attached to your rims i'd consider 16's in either 265 70 16 or 245 75 16 load C. Even with the 245 75 16 6 plys I hated life without 4th in dead flat MB. If this is a long term build I'd definitely be 410s before a second set of rubber and rims.

The duratracs are pretty stellar in the snow, not sure if i'd go studs but I run them on the minivan but never saw the need for the jeep. If you do stud them than you won't notice the tire noise the duratracs make.

I see more snow than 90% of this forum and those were great one set year round for me.

edit: just saw they now make 255 70 16 duratracs twobobs ran that size(not duratracs) before the reagear. might be able to tell you how they felt.

My budget is limited. That doesn't mean I will spend less, it just means it takes me longer to get quality parts. My first priority is safety, so a studded set of tires for Winter use where I live is a good idea. This is snow country and I travel the highways between Plumas County, CA and Reno, NV often. The elevations range from mid-3,000 to about 7,000'. Even when the snow is light, the ice is lurking on every curve of the winding, 2-lane roads I put 80% of my miles on.

Upgrading the differentials on my KJ to 4.10s is on my list, but it's not going to happen before the wheels and tires. I don't have the ability to hit the local salvage yards for wrecked [edit]4-cylinders[/edit] that have decent gears. I'll have to pay a premium in the form of labor charges to have someone get them for me and weigh that option against buying new components to have my diffs rebuilt. I understand it means a loss of power and MPGs. How much of that is noticeable will determine just where on my list 4.10s are.

Winter road conditions, including the chemicals the road department uses, doesn't play nice to the finish on wheels. It's a good idea to use wheels that don't mean much to me for Winter use. And since I can't use studded tires all year (Winter months are Dec-Apr aprox), it just seams reasonable to use my existing 17" rims for the studded tires and some nicer 16" wheels & tires for the rest of the year.

The tires I have now aren't good for Winter driving. I slipped a little on my trip to Reno Monday and they are nearing their optimum tread life. It makes more sense to replace them as soon as possible. I should be ready to do the lift right after the 1st and then mount new studded tires on the existing rims right after. By the end of Winter, I may have enough saved for the new wheels & tires. If it becomes obvious that changing the diffs should be next, then it will be.