Mopar 4.10 Part#'s?

[604KJ]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me the mopar part#'s needed in order to re-gear an 04 3.7L from 3.73 to 4.10? Front & Rear Diffs...

I am looking at different costs, Aftermarket vs Cost at Mopar vs Junkyard; ideally i would like to find the front diff from a 4 cylinder in the junk yard and buy the mopar parts for the rear.

Thanks for the help :cheers:

 

[tommudd]

Or
if you if find the front from the 4 cylinder , then grab the rear as well for a complete setup

 

[streetglideok]

Mopar gears will cost a small fortune by themselves. The rear axle gears are easy to find in 4.11 aftermarket. The front, there used to only be one source for the gears, but as of right now, a couple of companies make the 4.10 gears for the Dana 30A. Even then, they aren't super cheap. Otherwise, like Tom said, if you can find some axles out of a 4 cylinder gas Liberty, that will get you 4.10/4.11 gears cheap.

 

[604KJ]

I read somewhere about not being able to swap the rear because you would lose 4x4. Maybe i have confused myself...
What should i be looking for in the junkyard? How will i know whats good?

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[tommudd]

I read somewhere about not being able to swap the rear because you would lose 4x4. Maybe i have confused myself...
What should i be looking for in the junkyard? How will i know whats good?

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What??? Can't swap the rear since you'll lose 4 wheel drive?
Yes confused , we just did TwoBobs a few weeks back that way, getting ready to do John three seventeens in a couple of weeks here.
You look for lower mileage etc if going to a Salvage yard, just like any other part. Some will let you open them up and look over the gears, or if not as soon as you get them home look them over.

 

[604KJ]

Ok. Obviously the 4 cylinder needs to be 4x4 also, correct?

As far as installation goes, what is more difficult to do, installing new gears or swapping the diffs?

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[streetglideok]

Yeah you need a 4x4 model for the front diff. As far as difficulty, swapping gears requires a shop press and some technical knowledge to do. Swapping axles, not too hard, just labor intensive, well I wouldn't call it really intensive. Perk to doing gears, if you don't have locking or limited slip diffs, you can do it right then, as you have it all torn down. I'm doing gears in mine, and adding limited slip diffs.

 

[604KJ]

So i will need to take the entire axle not just the diff? Apologies if my questions are a bit weird, I don't know anything about this. What have you guys paid for this at the junkyard? Want to know what i should be haggling for.

I don't have the tools to re-gear, but maybe i can do this swap with myself & a friend. If too difficult for me, I'm sure a shop would charge less for this than to regear. If i go to the junkyard and pull one apart, I'm thinking i should have a pretty good idea of how to put it back together.

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[streetglideok]

Pull the entire axle, front and rear. The internals won't do you any good unless you want to do a regear job. They are shimmed, etc for that axle housing. I think if you do a search, you'll find the tommudd/twobobskj thread about the axle swap they did. They did exactly what you want to do.

 

[604KJ]

How is this job compared to the frankenlift? That took me about 21hours and was very frustrating. Only the drivers side was the issue, spent so much time on that 8am - 10:30pm! Nothing was coming apart and had to cut some things off. Next day we did passenger and rear in 6 hours, we knew more what we were doing this time. Am i going to have to pull my suspension out for the swap? I will look around for that other post about tomms swap...

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[streetglideok]

Well seeing where you live, you're likely to encounter more road salt issues with rust. In the rear, you're unbolting the shocks where they bolt to the axle, the driveshaft, the brake line and speed sensor harness, and then the control arms on the bottom and the tri-link from the top. You're springs in the back will come out as a result. In the front, you need to unbolt the driveshaft at the diff, remove both cv shafts, then unbolt the front diff from the sub-frame. Only hangup here is, if the mounting bolts are turned the wrong way, you either have to cut the old bolts or disconnect the lower control arms from the subframe to remove the bolts.

 

[tommudd]

We'll be doing Johns on the 22nd of this month. I don't do how-tos, but if needed I may take a few pictures to help explain what I do
You don't need to tear down the diffs just looking at the wear on the gears is all, if lower mileage should be fine.
I pull the calipers, brake lines, e-cables everything off the old diff and the remove it, install the new one and bolt everything back together. Doing so you don't have to bled the brakes or have issues like that.
Front you just pull everything like streetglide said . There are two bolts in front that hold the diff mounting brackets right next to the lower control arms. I have fond thses bolts installed different ways but always the right one has to be cut out. Loosen it up as far as you can , cut the bolt, pull everything out then replace that bolt with a 3/8 inch Grade 8 going the opposite direction of course. Manual calls for R&Ring the LCAs etc which is a waste of time IMO.
But if it took 21 hours to do your Frankenlift, you may want to have some more experienced help on this . Not downing you or your abilities but its not a spark plug change type of swap .

 

[604KJ]

Hey no worries lol, that's great info. I'm not a mechanic and haven't done any kind of work before. I was surprised i got the suspension done!

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[profdlp]

If you did the suspension without having experience with that kind of thing then my hat is off to you. :waytogo:

 

[Luke]

It's that first time .. and getting everything (that has rusted for 4 or 5 years) apart that is the biggest issue. I remember it like it was yesterday :icon_evil:

But when you finally finish... and you stand back and look at that beast :rockit:

Every time you do it you learn a new little trick that saves you time as well.

 

[tommudd]

Yes the OP did great , just didn't want to see him down for 2-3 days with doing a swap out on the diffs. Not that its hard but does take some planning and little tricks

 

[profdlp]

Yes the OP did great , just didn't want to see him down for 2-3 days with doing a swap out on the diffs. Not that its hard but does take some planning and little tricks

I'd be afraid to even try the suspension by myself, much less a re-gear.

I'm good at wiper blades and light bulbs though! :rockit:

 

[tommudd]

I'd be afraid to even try the suspension by myself, much less a re-gear.

I'm good at wiper blades and light bulbs though! :rockit:

Come over sometime, we'll "break" you in on a lift or whatever we're doing. Always need someone to grab a wrench, can of Kroil, loosen a bolt we don't want to break............you know how it goes, you break it then we can say the newbie broke it ..:icon_razz::icon_razz:

 

[tjkj2002]

Come over sometime, we'll "break" you in on a lift or whatever we're doing. Always need someone to grab a wrench, can of Kroil, loosen a bolt we don't want to break............you know how it goes, you break it then we can say the newbie broke it ..:icon_razz::icon_razz:

Little pricey but worth it,will be my next purchase for work.


Induction Innovations, Inc. Mini-Ductor II

 

[Luke]

Little pricey but worth it,will be my next purchase for work.


Induction Innovations, Inc. Mini-Ductor II

That's pretty damn awesome!