Murphys law just bit me

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smittyfromPA

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My 2005 KJ has been in the shop for two months getting all new suspension, steering rack, HD battery, and several other things. So today is the day I finally go to pick it up. I received an email early this morning from the shop that Jeep was done but had a bad coil pack which they ordered and are installing.

I get there and its not pretty: Jeep has been throwing misfire codes. They moved coil and it did not follow coil so they are still working on it. Suggested i may need to take to dealer (luckily 3 miles from shop) as it may be a PCM issue? They are going to keep working on diagnosing and fixing until dealer can get me in next Wed. Before I decided to drop the $ on the lift I asked them to do a compression test which it passed with flying colors. Jeep probably sat for a while I'm guessing too, maybe 30 days plus when parts are on back-order.

I'm going to scour KJ sites for possible culprit but does anyone care to chime in? I was decent to the guy but am quite pissed since it ran great when i brought it in. Could something be knocked loose (sensor) during all the work?
I'm supremely bummed as I was going to be driving it 600miles round trip next weekend to Jeep festival and already dropped a load of cash on it.
 

Hockeygoon

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So they did a compression test and then it started throwing codes? Make sure the spark plug wires are not hooked up wrong.
 

John3seventeen

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First step check the connector for that coil closely and use dielectric grease when reconnecting.
 

smittyfromPA

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So they did a compression test and then it started throwing codes? Make sure the spark plug wires are not hooked up wrong.

Thanks, I'm getting a list together but I'm hoping they are smart enough to think of that.
 

smittyfromPA

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did they happen to change the spark plugs? Could be that they didn't use proper copper cores? Just a thought...
The invoice says they used NGK V Power Spark Plugs (ZFR6F-11). also installed an Odyssey battery so not sure if disconnecting the battery could have knocked a connector loose somewhere.
 
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smittyfromPA

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Like I said, very bummed because I spent enough to put a sizable down-payment on a Rubicon already and broke the bank so to speak.
 

ftaa

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its either a valve or the connector ... tom just had this problem with a missfire code ... it wouldnt show up and it would wiggle loose after 300 mile and thow a misfire...
 

smittyfromPA

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I got a little more info. The code was P2311 and switching coil pack #4 and #1 changed it to P2302. Jeep probably sat over a month.
 

smittyfromPA

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its either a valve or the connector ... tom just had this problem with a missfire code ... it wouldnt show up and it would wiggle loose after 300 mile and thow a misfire...

I hope its not a valve problem. Was running fine and no codes 2 months ago. I would have thought the compression test would have caught a valve issue.
 

Leeann

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P2311 - Ignition Coil Secondary Number 4 Circuit Condition
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug or coil boot
- Faulty Ignition Coil 4
- Ignition Coil 4 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection


P2302 Dodge - Ignition Coil Secondary Number 1 Circuit Condition
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug or coil boot
- Faulty Ignition Coil 1
- Ignition Coil 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 1 circuit poor electrical connection


Bad coil.
 

smittyfromPA

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P2311 - Ignition Coil Secondary Number 4 Circuit Condition
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug or coil boot
- Faulty Ignition Coil 4
- Ignition Coil 4 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection


P2302 Dodge - Ignition Coil Secondary Number 1 Circuit Condition
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug or coil boot
- Faulty Ignition Coil 1
- Ignition Coil 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 1 circuit poor electrical connection


Bad coil.

Yep. Installed a new coil and it still shot these codes.
 

smittyfromPA

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Saying it is now PCM related

I'm being told after trying a long list of troubleshooting its probably a PCM issue. So its now going to be in the dealears hands to diagnose and repair. I drove the Jeep into the shop 3 months ago, it probably sat without running for at least 45 days, and now all the suspension work is finally done and can't drive it home. Someday maybe I'll actually be able to drive on my new JBA lift and see if it was worth the money.:favorites68:

So far my Wife is not telling me "I told you so and you should have spent that $ on a new Jeep instead" but her looks say it all.
 

ftaa

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I'm being told after trying a long list of troubleshooting its probably a PCM issue. So its now going to be in the dealears hands to diagnose and repair. I drove the Jeep into the shop 3 months ago, it probably sat without running for at least 45 days, and now all the suspension work is finally done and can't drive it home. Someday maybe I'll actually be able to drive on my new JBA lift and see if it was worth the money.:favorites68:

So far my Wife is not telling me "I told you so and you should have spent that $ on a new Jeep instead" but her looks say it all.

my jeep sat since 2012 and just got resurected in december of this past year... sitting wouldnt do it.... something else is. like i said the connector to the coil could be just stupid.. it happens. you said there was compression in that cylinder?
 

smittyfromPA

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my jeep sat since 2012 and just got resurected in december of this past year... sitting wouldnt do it.... something else is. like i said the connector to the coil could be just stupid.. it happens. you said there was compression in that cylinder?

Yes, before any of this happened and I agreed to upgrade suspension I asked for a compression test and was told (quote) "All 6 cyl were between 104 and 155 so very good."
 

CactusJacked

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Yes, before any of this happened and I agreed to upgrade suspension I asked for a compression test and was told (quote) "All 6 cyl were between 104 and 155 so very good."

If they told you that's "very good", then you need a more knowledgeable shop. That's acceptable, not very good. The high and low numbers want to be within 10% of each other, others may like to say no more than a difference of 20 or so. That cylinder that's at 104 is so-so, borderline ok. I would concentrate on that cylinder and find out what's up, or in this case, what's down. Such a big swing means something is going on with that weaker cylinder.
 

ftaa

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yup should be 130-150 ... you may have a dropped valve.
 
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