Mysterious Battery Drain

[rook23]

Hello all,

I'm new to this forum, but I have a question I'm hoping someone might be able to help me out with.

I recently bought an 02 Liberty Sport about a year ago with 124k miles. When I first got it home I didn't drive for a couple days and when I went to start it, the battery was completely dead. I chalked it up to a bad battery and went out to buy a new one. Well, fast forward a year and I have figured out if I don't drive it for 24 hours, something drains my battery to 0%. Autozone tests the battery every time they charge it, and they say it's still good.

Some odd info on my car: the clock always stays on, and the radio will constantly play even with the keys out of the ignition and doors open. (the radio is a stock radio) I have to remember to manually mute the radio or it will never turn off.

I just had to get my radiator replaced, so while it was in the shop I had them run a diagnostic on it to see if anything came up. They said they didn't find anything causing the drain. Although, if I forked up more money they could dig deeper. :emotions34: I also had the alternator tested and it was fine.

I looked online and found a few people with the same issue, but each person said something different to "fix" it (disabling back door, hazards, pulling out radio...). Do any of you have any input? I'm at a loss and it's so frustrating to have to keep charging this damn battery. Thanks!

 

[twowings]

It sounds like someone has done some re-wiring or you have a faulty ignition switch...testing for a parasitic draw is tedious but easy work...you'll need a good VOM and a fuse puller...

watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

Good Luck!

 

[CzarKJ]

So sounds like if the radio stays on pull that out and unplug it. Start there to see if that is your draw!

 

[M38 Bob]

The radio doesn't stay on. The power source coming to it isn't turning off, pulling the radio might cover the issue, but it certainly won't fix it. To eliminate the problem without fixing it, one of these would be a far better choice;

http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Isolator/dp/B0160AEMU2

Sorry electrical systems aren't my forte, so I can't give any proper diagnostic advise.

Bob

 

[libertybob]

Drain

Get a good factory wiring diagram to identify circuits in you Liberty. Pull the fuse for each circuit one at a time until you eliminate the parasitic drain. I would start with the fuse for the radio to see if that eliminates the drain. It it does then you can investigate why. Check the switch wiring diagram. When you turn off the switch and remove the key, is the switch supposed to cut power to the radio circuit? If yes and that doesn't happen, the switch is suspect.

 

[renegade 04]

It is a bad ignition switch, I had a battery drain down problem twice and both times it was due to a bad ignition switch.

 

[rook23]

Thank you all for your replies, I really appreciate it.

I will look into all suggestions! Renegade, what were your symptoms with the bad switch? Just the battery drain? Sometimes the clock/radio will turn off after I turn off the car and then my lights with the "beep" will come on when I lock the car. But that's really rare...maybe the 5th or 6th time I drive the car per week.

 

[Billwill]

There are two power sources to the radio....one has power ON all the time to maintain the radio time while the other power sours is when the ignition is turned to ON or ACC at which time the radio can be turned ON.

So either the wiring has been changed or more likely an ignition switch problem considering the fact that as you have stated every 5th or 6th time you switch off then things work OK!

To remove the ignition switch, remove the plastic covers covering the steering column...two female Torx screws.

Then remove the actuator and switch assembly...smaller female Torx screw...newer KJs have a "security" Torx screw there but yours should be standard. When you unclip the ignition switch off the rear of the Actuator pin check that the Actuator pin is not in the process of falling apart. If the Actuator pin is failing then get a new assembly from Dorman or other suppliers...Dealers do not stock it. You can test the ignition switch by turning it with a small flat screwdriver..maybe the switch connections are bad or some contact cleaner sprayed into the switch will fix your issues!

 

[smittyfromPA]

I had the same "mysterious" battery drain. Bought and installed an Odyssey battery and no more issues, well at least in the past 6 months.

 

[Billwill]

I had the same "mysterious" battery drain. Bought and installed an Odyssey battery and no more issues, well at least in the past 6 months.

Yeah all batteries have some internal resistance...some in series with the terminal posts and some effectively across the terminal posts....this is why you will get a voltage drop across even a new battery when cranking the engine....this is a voltage drop across the resitance in series.

An older battery can have the resistance across the terminals go down so it is like having a light bulb permanently connected across the terminals.

So the battery should never be disregarded as a cause of "battery drain"!:icon_smile:

 

[renegade 04]

The way you can tell is if modules on the jeep are not going to sleep and also if your radio or other accessories are still on when the is out of the ignition.

 

[rook23]

Hey guys! So I'm pretty sure I have pinpointed the problem.

Upon doing some research about having a bad ignition switch, it led me to a site talking about the different "settings" in the switch (acc, on, start, etc.) and when I went to take a look at my car, I noticed my car's ignition goes like: acc (all the way to the left) off, on, start. So basically when I have been turning my car "off" I've really been leaving the acc setting on 24/7, thus causing the "mysterious" battery drain. However, your ignition isn't supposed to let you take the key out when it's in acc right? So I'm assuming I should just replace the thing.

I found this out by leaving my car for a little over 24hrs in the actual off position and started it this morning. It started up like a champ, no issues whatsoever. Ugh. So maybe if anyone had this problem, they should look into this first. Not sure if it's a liberty thing, an old car thing, or just a faulty ignition switch. Thanks so much for all your replies though!

 

[M38 Bob]

Hey guys! So I'm pretty sure I have pinpointed the problem. >>>>>>>>>>>>>

Not sure if it's a liberty thing, an old car thing, or just a faulty ignition switch. Thanks so much for all your replies though!

There is one more option, the "dumbarse thing". :happy175:

Bob

 

[rook23]

Haha, yep...that too! Just glad its user error and nothing more!

 

[uss2defiant]

should not be able to take the key out in the counter clock wise ACC on position.

 

[M38 Bob]

:gr_grin:
Good to see folks who can take a bit of ribbing!

Bob

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

It is a bad ignition switch, I had a battery drain down problem twice and both times it was due to a bad ignition switch.

Hey guys! So I'm pretty sure I have pinpointed the problem.

Upon doing some research about having a bad ignition switch...

Thanks so much for all your replies though!

You should give proper thanks to renegade 04 for tipping you off to the problem arty52:

Glad you found the issue though :waytogo:


Bob

 

[M38 Bob]

should not be able to take the key out in the counter clock wise ACC on position.

Exactly why the phrase "$hit Happens" came about. :emotions34:

Bob

 

[rook23]

should not be able to take the key out in the counter clock wise ACC on position.

Yeah, I figured. I'm going to get it replaced.

Good call, twobobs. Thanks so much renegade for the idea! I would have never guessed it had anything to do with the ignition. :favorites37:

 

[twowings]

It sounds like someone has done some re-wiring or you have a faulty ignition switch...testing for a parasitic draw is tedious but easy work...you'll need a good VOM and a fuse puller...

watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

Good Luck!

Me neither!