On my third Radiator

[Sephiroth]

I am on my third radiator in 1 year first one OME had a crack on the front driver side; got one from O'reilly's and after about 6 months it started leaking from the passenger side back side where the core meets the plastic; four months latter the replacement got a crack on the passenger back side squirting coolant all over the engine.

The O'reilly's guy said that I should check my water pump because it cold be causing too much pressure in the radiator and breaking it, that does not make much sense to me. if there is too much pressure shouldn't the reservoir cap just open and allow the coolant and pressure to go in to the overflow part of it? The cap seems to be working properly. and is it even possible that a water pump problem would damage the radiator? :fca5278d:

:emotions122: I think I am just getting a cheap radiator. Jeep never overheats, water pump seems to be working OK (no leaks no bad bearing sounds) what is causing my radiator to die so quickly?

 

[Snail Farmer]

Most aftermarket radiators are cheap china made crap. I haven't had a problem with my Napa radiator, but most on here will say go only OEM for the radiator.

 

[02blue]

I replaced my original a few years ago after it cracked (top front drivers side). I guess this is the usual failure point most people see. I had an overheat in there due to bad fan relay. Didn't do any research and I threw a 100$ spectrum from Rock auto in and it leaked in the same place after about 8 months. Did some research and heard only use Mopar and something about most AM rad being rated for about 12 PSI but the Jeep has an 18 PSI pressure cap and runs at a higher pressure. Went with a Mopar and no leaks after. Don't know if the pressure thing is true but the Mopar was a much better quality part. Felt more substantial to me.

 

[streetglideok]

I am on my third radiator in 1 year first one OME had a crack on the front driver side; got one from O'reilly's and after about 6 months it started leaking from the passenger side back side where the core meets the plastic; four months latter the replacement got a crack on the passenger back side squirting coolant all over the engine.

The O'reilly's guy said that I should check my water pump because it cold be causing too much pressure in the radiator and breaking it, that does not make much sense to me. if there is too much pressure shouldn't the reservoir cap just open and allow the coolant and pressure to go in to the overflow part of it? The cap seems to be working properly. and is it even possible that a water pump problem would damage the radiator? :fca5278d:

:emotions122: I think I am just getting a cheap radiator. Jeep never overheats, water pump seems to be working OK (no leaks no bad bearing sounds) what is causing my radiator to die so quickly?

There is a reason the Oreillys guy works there, and not in a shop. Thankfully, they only put the idiots who don't try to give us repair shops advice on the commercial counter. Water pumps do not build pressure. They recirculate coolant, that's it. When coolant, or anything else for that matter according to the laws of physics heats up, it expands. If something is constrained, like in a coolant system with a pressure cap, it builds pressure as it heats up. The key to that is, when it is under pressure, it raises the boiling point higher than what coolant already is. Our engines run hard, and run hot, given their displacement and horsepower, hence the high pressure rating on it, and what you see on most modern engines now.

Someone on here or one of the other KJ interest forums took pics comparing his junk china radiator he got aftermarket, and a mopar one. He already played that game of several radiators and bit the bullet for a mopar one. There is a substantial difference in how they are made. You're better off asking automotive questions on here, than taking advice from a parts store guy. I could write a book on the ****** statements I've heard given from them.

 

[02blue]

Water pumps do not build pressure. They recirculate coolant, that's it. When coolant, or anything else for that matter according to the laws of physics heats up, it expands. If something is constrained, like in a coolant system with a pressure cap, it builds pressure as it heats up. The key to that is, when it is under pressure, it raises the boiling point higher than what coolant already is.

You're better off asking automotive questions on here, than taking advice from a parts store guy. I could write a book on the ****** statements I've heard given from them.

Well said and well said! Physics is good stuff and I've gotten all kinds of great info from this and other forums. So much info out there that I've had the guts to tackle some things I wouldn't have tried a few years ago. :High 5:

 

[KodiakKJ]

I'm now in the same situation. OEM radiator went out in August. The Orielly radiator started leaking last week. I'm wondering what others are paying for the OEM radiators at the dealership. Is the cooling system really at 18 psi? The radiator cap that's on mine is 16 psi. Would that make a serious difference?

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[CzarKJ]

I paid around 300 then had a coupon. Completely worth it. Been running about 6 months.

 

[KodiakKJ]

^^ I wasn't expecting such a quick response. When I got my not-a-hitch, they were quoting $650 for them to replace it and add new coolant. I wish I could find the paperwork or remember the quoted price just for the radiator. I wouldn't mind the higher price if would last another ten years. Is 16 psi the correct coolant pressure?

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[CzarKJ]

No clue on the coolant but bump for that. Ya it's actually really easy to replace. Should only take an hour or two with proper tools. Took me (a novice) two hours with drinking and taking pictures.

 

[ltd02]

16 PSI is likely the pressure rating for your cap. That's where it's supposed to fail or "vent" if exceeded. I think the last one I bought was an 18PSI cap (probably a range around there). System probably doesn't reach 15PSI. BUT NEVER CHECKED THIS. I have heard the cheapo rads are rated for about 12-15PSI. Found this out after my Spectra failed after eight months. The OEM rad it replaced lasted 11 years and 150k. Cheapos are probably right on the edge of what our KJs run at so might explain why they crack at a weak point sooner than the OEM.

Can anyone confirm or deny this?

BTW Mopar replacement: $225 w/AC and Auto

http://moparonlineparts.com/repair-parts.php?cPath=25_31_268

 

[dude1116]

Got my OEM one for like $250 online. Have had it for a year and never installed it. I had a patch on the radiator that just started failing recently... :\

 

[KodiakKJ]

I got my oem radiator installed. Not a fan of the $320 after tax though. I found out that the Faricy Boys do do online price matching, hopefully I wouldn't have to use it very often.

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[tlrtucker]

Anybody have any luck having their OEM radiator rebuilt? I had the OEM radiator on my old 300M rebuilt and it lasted a couple of years until I sold it...

 

[CalcityRenegade]

I have an aftermarket once that was installed this February but that was when I didn't know any better, I have a small leak near the bottom already, The Mopar Radiator and Thermostat should be here any day now , Local dealer said $350 + GST just to hand me that rad, I paid $350 after tax, shipping, Dollar exchange and taxes/duties for the Mopar Rad, Thermostat, Tail Light Socket & proper overhead light button as mine is broken, Got it all from Mopar Overstock, I was also recommended Avondale Mopar.

 

[tlrtucker]

Anybody have any luck having their OEM radiator rebuilt? I had the OEM radiator on my old 300M rebuilt and it lasted a couple of years until I sold it...

I spoke with three different radiator repair shops here in town and they all said that nobody really repairs radiators with the plastic sides anymore because they are so cheap to replace. Then they all offered me an aftermarket brand from Asia (Sunny, or something like that) at a cost of about $125 with a 3 year warranty. When I told them that I'd be bringing that radiator back every 6 months for a new one they all laughed and said that was ridiculous, they never fail and are superior to OEM.

So who's lying here??? you or them? :happy175:

 

[dude1116]

I spoke with three different radiator repair shops here in town and they all said that nobody really repairs radiators with the plastic sides anymore because they are so cheap to replace. Then they all offered me an aftermarket brand from Asia (Sunny, or something like that) at a cost of about $125 with a 3 year warranty. When I told them that I'd be bringing that radiator back every 6 months for a new one they all laughed and said that was ridiculous, they never fail and are superior to OEM.

So who's lying here??? you or them? :happy175:

LOL if you can afford the time away from the Jeep then do it. Fr33 r@ds 4 lyfe!

 

[Tinkrr]

The service manual indicates :_ that the normal system operating pressure is 16 psig , and The radiator cap should open at 18 to 21 psig when tested and should be replaced if it doesn't operate within those parameters.

 

[KodiakKJ]

Thanks! Since I plan on keeping my kj for quite a while, I'm trying to learn the ins and outs of them.

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