Parasitic battery drain - fuse 34 ??

[tcek]

I have a parasitic battery drain isolated to fuse 34. My suspect component is the passenger lock actuator. I unplugged the electrical connect (directly from actuator, not switch). Now only the unlock portion of all door lock switches work...the lock (down position) function does not work. Any ideas as to why would be greatly appreciated.

2003 Liberty Sport.

 

[LibertyTC]

Fuse 6 is mainly regarding locks, 34 is a handful, everything from Body Control Module/Cluster/Interior Lights,Hands Free Module/Radio/ CMTC/ITM Module & Siren.
Have you ever heard multiple door lock actuator clicking? If so, there may be a dealer firmware update for the lock actuators.
Did the parasitic drain stop when you unplugged the connector from actuator?
Bill our electrical specialist will hopefully also have some advice regarding this issue.

 

[tcek]

I have not heard multiple clicks from a single door actuator. Just each actuator opening/closing when the door switch is activated. The car is sitting now with the actuator disconnected. I should see the parasitic result in a day or two.

 

[adamkrz]

Beware the fuse diagram may be wrong, I also found a parasitic draw from a fuse that was marked as horn but really was the front 12 volt port, pulled the fuse and all is well until I can get to the problem..

 

[Billwill]

This is like Deja Vu all over again!
I have been on this page a few times over the years.

Is this a Base Model 2003 KJ or "except base"?

How much current are you measuring?
You expect to draw about 30-40 milli amps ie 0.030 Amps!

First plug everything back in place.

Then assuming you have the 2003 Jeep KJ Service Manual go to page 8W-12-29.

Put your Multi Meter on DC Amps and put it in series with fuse #34 15 A.

Check Radio is Off and all internal lamps are Off...make sure doors are closed while you do your measuring.

You will see on page 8W-12-29 that there are a whole lot of lamps...unless you have a Base model.... at the bottom of the page on the Pink Wire coming off pin 18 on connector C2 of the Junction Block ie. Fuse Panel.

This Pink wire goes through Connector C306 and then C308.

Hopefully you will find the physical location of these two connectors in the index of Section 8W under Component Locations.

First pull of connectors C1, C2 and C3 off the Junction block...this isolates everything except the BCM...hopefully the BCM is not drawing the current!

Put those connectors back in place.

Disconnect C306 and see if the current draw dies down.
Then disconnect C308 in case that section of wiring between the two connectors is shorting to ground somewhere.

This should isolate if there is a short in the path to any of these lamps or if a lamp socket is shorting out.

Then that leaves you with the Left and Right Courtesy Lamps, Siren if you have one, Radio and instrument Cluster.
You will then have to isolate each of these last items to see what is drawing current.

The Instrument Cluster has a single plug at its rear...try disconnect that.

If at this stage the BCM is not drawing current and C306/308 makes no difference and disconnecting the Radio, BCM, Lamps etc. makes no difference then one of the Pink wires coming off the Junction block may be shorting to ground somewhere so you need plug the connectors back in place and then cut off these 6 Pink wires, one at a time, as they exit the connectors C1, C2, C3. You can solder the wires back together later and insulate them with Shrink Tubing.

If cutting all these wires makes no difference to the current draw then it would point to the BCM.

I hope it is not the BCM Module that is at fault as that is plugged directly on to the Junction block ie. the BCM is on the reverse-side of the interior fuse panel!.....very hard to get access to!

You can download the 2003 Jeep KJ Service Manual here:

www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

 

[LibertyTC]

Again Thanks Bill ! Here is the 03 FSM just in case the OP does not have it: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf

 

[Billwill]

Again Thanks Bill ! Here is the 03 FSM just in case the OP does not have it:
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf

Beat you to it!

 

[tcek]

Fuse 6 is mainly regarding locks, 34 is a handful, everything from Body Control Module/Cluster/Interior Lights,Hands Free Module/Radio/ CMTC/ITM Module & Siren.
Have you ever heard multiple door lock actuator clicking? If so, there may be a dealer firmware update for the lock actuators.
Did the parasitic drain stop when you unplugged the connector from actuator?
Bill our electrical specialist will hopefully also have some advice regarding this issue.

The electrical plug was removed completely from the actuator and boom, 48 hours later the car is dead, dead, dead. I guess it was not the actuator. I will hook the power to the actuator back up and look at the other items that are accessible on this circuit.

 

[tcek]

This is like Deja Vu all over again!
I have been on this page a few times over the years.

Is this a Base Model 2003 KJ or "except base"?

How much current are you measuring?
You expect to draw about 30-40 milli amps ie 0.030 Amps!

First plug everything back in place.

Then assuming you have the 2003 Jeep KJ Service Manual go to page 8W-12-29.

Put your Multi Meter on DC Amps and put it in series with fuse #34 15 A.

Check Radio is Off and all internal lamps are Off...make sure doors are closed while you do your measuring.

You will see on page 8W-12-29 that there are a whole lot of lamps...unless you have a Base model.... at the bottom of the page on the Pink Wire coming off pin 18 on connector C2 of the Junction Block ie. Fuse Panel.

This Pink wire goes through Connector C306 and then C308.

Hopefully you will find the physical location of these two connectors in the index of Section 8W under Component Locations.

First pull of connectors C1, C2 and C3 off the Junction block...this isolates everything except the BCM...hopefully the BCM is not drawing the current!

Put those connectors back in place.

Disconnect C306 and see if the current draw dies down.
Then disconnect C308 in case that section of wiring between the two connectors is shorting to ground somewhere.

This should isolate if there is a short in the path to any of these lamps or if a lamp socket is shorting out.

Then that leaves you with the Left and Right Courtesy Lamps, Siren if you have one, Radio and instrument Cluster.
You will then have to isolate each of these last items to see what is drawing current.

The Instrument Cluster has a single plug at its rear...try disconnect that.

If at this stage the BCM is not drawing current and C306/308 makes no difference and disconnecting the Radio, BCM, Lamps etc. makes no difference then one of the Pink wires coming off the Junction block may be shorting to ground somewhere so you need plug the connectors back in place and then cut off these 6 Pink wires, one at a time, as they exit the connectors C1, C2, C3. You can solder the wires back together later and insulate them with Shrink Tubing.

If cutting all these wires makes no difference to the current draw then it would point to the BCM.

I hope it is not the BCM Module that is at fault as that is plugged directly on to the Junction block ie. the BCM is on the reverse-side of the interior fuse panel!.....very hard to get access to!

You can download the 2003 Jeep KJ Service Manual here:

www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

Thanks for the info. I will try and get back to all about my success...or no success

 

[simmonspdx]

I know this thread is very old, but I found it helpful and I thought I would add to it what turned out to be the problem with my son's 2003 Liberty.
I went thru all the various threads I could find, did the trouble shooting as described by @Billwill ( thanks for such a thorough procedure).

We recently got this car from my son's Great Uncle who can no longer drive. He informed us, it had a parasitic drain that he had not tried to fix.

In the end it was none of those things, it was a dumb cockpit error.
We were turning the key fully CCW and removing it. Thinking that it was in the off position, but its not, that is accessories on. I don't remember ever owning a car you could take the key out when it is in the accessory position.
Goes back to what my Grandmother would say. If all else fails read the instructions!

Maybe you are not suppose to be able to remove it while in the accessory position ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

But we now know and no longer have a battery drain issue.

Hopefully this post will help others with the same problem, and maybe even, you got a good laugh by reading this.


Ed,

 

[klc]

I know this thread is very old, but I found it helpful and I thought I would add to it what turned out to be the problem with my son's 2003 Liberty.
I went thru all the various threads I could find, did the trouble shooting as described by @Billwill ( thanks for such a thorough procedure).

We recently got this car from my son's Great Uncle who can no longer drive. He informed us, it had a parasitic drain that he had not tried to fix.

In the end it was none of those things, it was a dumb cockpit error.
We were turning the key fully CCW and removing it. Thinking that it was in the off position, but its not that is accessories on. I don't remember ever owning a car you could take the key out when it is in the accessory position.
Goes back to what my Grandmother would say. If all else fails read the instructions!

Maybe you are not suppose to be able to remove it while in the accessory position ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

But we now know and no longer have a battery drain issue.

Hopefully this post will help other with the same problem, and maybe even, you got a good laugh by reading this.


Ed,

You could have a worn-out key. When I got mine copied the new one doesn’t pull out.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Been there. M

In the end it was none of those things, it was a dumb cockpit error.
We were turning the key fully CCW and removing it. Thinking that it was in the off position, but its not, that is accessories on. I don't remember ever owning a car you could take the key out when it is in the accessory position.

Been there, drained a few batteries. We have the same issue with a worn out key - my wife always asks me to double check the ignition is in the right position (non-acc) after she drives because she was the major instigator of dead batteries. Even I do it from time to time. I will also say to check your charging system and also check the ignition tumbler.