profdlp's 2007 Liberty Project

[profdlp]

I'm probably forgetting a few, but among a lot of really small things I re-did the crossbars for the roof rack. Instead of running on top of the roof rails they now run in between them. The roof rack now sits with the bottom of the rack below the top of the rails in the middle and pretty much even at the ends.

Changed the spark plugs, since that was one of the few things I hadn't done since I bought it used 16 months ago.

Had the recall (hitch) done. Getting ready to move so I'm going to find out if it works.

Installed Weathertech digital-fit floor mats (front pair), which fit so well that at a casual glance you wouldn't even know they were there. Bought them for the Cleveland winter, then while they were in transit I found out I'll be moving. No idea where to, but I'm guessing it'll be somewhere where you don't need $115 floor liners. :icon_rolleyes:

 

[profdlp]

Never mind, bought a kit today. Thanks.

I need to add the wiring to my tow hitch and need to do it ASAP. I can't afford the Mopar OEM kit and think one or both of these will work:

Curt Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring for Jeep Liberty 2007 - C55382

T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring 118524

What's the difference between the two? (And if anyone says "$13.90 I will kill them. )

On the second one, what is the extra wiring for? Do I need it?

I need to go cheaper if possible, but not so cheap that I save a few bucks up front and regret it somewhere out on the Turnpike.

I have very little time to make a decision and any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[TheBlueKJ]

He lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[profdlp]

He lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just barely, and for how much longer only God knows. This was supposed to be a great year for me and I have three months to turn things around so it doesn't end up being the worst.

 

[TheBlueKJ]

Just barely, and for how much longer only God knows. This was supposed to be a great year for me and I have three months to turn things around so it doesn't end up being the worst.

uh oh, sorry to hear that but it is good hearing from you again

 

[profdlp]

Well, I don't plan on wandering all around the forum whining about stuff, so I'll just post it here and forget it. I am still job hunting, running out of money, losing my lease in a few months, and being pulled in ten different directions (none of them good) while I try and hang in there. I'll make it (I will!), but it would be nice right now to have a clue as to how exactly that's going to happen.

I appreciate the many kind words of support I have received!

 

[LibertyTC]

Can anyone help Steve out on the trailer parts/wiring...post 182..
I never knew it was that complicated...I had mine wired by dealer when I first bought it.
Hopefully one of them or both come with decent instructions!
I think I would also be looking for crazy :insane: glue!
and having a good whiff !!

 

[Gyro]

The curt is plug and play.Gets power through harness.
The T-one requires power from the battery,red to long black to fusable link to battery.
There is a flat spot on the body inside the DS tail light housing to mount the box.
clean it up with thinner or alcohol swab,warm the area with a heatgun and the stickytape will grip better.

I have the Curt on my Dakota and the T-one on my Renegade.
I'll post a pic or two when the sun comes up.

Gyro

 

[profdlp]

Thanks, all - I bought the T-One set yesterday. My main concern was the difference between that one and the Curt, mainly when it came down to how robust the electronic part would be since that's the thing that's going to fry if anything does.

Had some luck, too. I stopped by U-Haul because they want to inspect your hitch in advance of a trailer rental and was able to talk to a really sharp young guy who answered all my questions. They also had one of the T-One custom wiring sets in stock. It had been opened and was missing the power wire (had been cannibalized for a previous install) so he gave me a discount. Overall I saved about $25, minus whatever I'll pay for 15' of AWG 10.

 

[John3seventeen]

Thanks, all - I bought the T-One set yesterday. My main concern was the difference between that one and the Curt, mainly when it came down to how robust the electronic part would be since that's the thing that's going to fry if anything does.

Had some luck, too. I stopped by U-Haul because they want to inspect your hitch in advance of a trailer rental and was able to talk to a really sharp young guy who answered all my questions. They also had one of the T-One custom wiring sets in stock. It had been opened and was missing the power wire (had been cannibalized for a previous install) so he gave me a discount. Overall I saved about $25, minus whatever I'll pay for 15' of AWG 10.

That's the one I have installed passengers side rear powered off the power outlet.

 

[profdlp]

That's the one I have installed passengers side rear powered off the power outlet.

That's the way I was planning to do it since it beats running a wire all the way to the battery. He advised against it since it gets shut off with the ignition. I'd hate to be stuck on the side of the road and forget that the trailer lights went off with the key. (I need to verify that; I tested the plug when I bought the Jeep but have only used it when topping off air in the tires with my mini-compressor. For all I know it might stay hot even with the ignition off.)

How is it working out for you? I wanted to go OEM but just can't swing that much dough right now. Can I count on it lasting for at least 3-4 long trips with a U-Haul running off it? If not, maybe I'll hang a couple of my Coleman propane camping lanterns off the back and hope no one notices... :icon_lol:

 

[John3seventeen]

I've been using mine for two years now, many many trips. I'll have to check on the powering off thing, I didn't think mine shut off with switch, I'll check. If it does then I know to leave the switch on if I need the lights on.

Update: A quick search on LOST says they are on constant power.

 

[profdlp]

...Update: A quick search on LOST says they are on constant power.

You are correct. Before I started I plugged a ciggie plug flashlight in (Jeep off) and it worked.

I have the wiring installed and if my cheap little tester is correct it works. I also bought a hitch extender because the U-Haul guy said it was either that or take the spare off. I'm hoping to have some light stuff on the roof rack so I didn't want to have to stick the tire up there, though it might increase my "cool" factor marginally.

 

[John3seventeen]

You can flip the tire carrier to get a little more room.

 

[profdlp]

I will keep the "spare mount flip" in mind. I am running around with so much on my mind that I didn't even think of it. Anyone ever had a problem with using a hitch extender? The thing looks easily as solid as the hitch.

By the way, I appreciate the expert advice from you guys who have tried stuff out and know what works. I haven't towed anything in about 25 years and now that I'm getting ready to do it I have a 400-mile trip to get some stuff stored in my parents attic. I really don't need anything (else) to go wrong right now.

 

[CactusJacked]

I have an adjustable height receiver, I don't consider it extended though. There's plenty of swinging room when pulling a snowmobile trailer. As far as the spare tire, I don't usually haul much in the back, so that's where the spare is. I think I'm eventually going to install a roof rack and put the spare up there. Think about if you get rear-ended with the spare on the tailgate. With all the suv's on the road, not only can you have bumper to bumper contact, there's a good chance the grille and fender area of the hitter could hit the spare tire, trashing the tire & wheel, crushing the tailgate, and maybe even shattering the window in the process.

 

[profdlp]

When I'm there getting the trailer hooked up I'm going to see how much trouble there would be to "not" use the extender. I haven't towed anything in over twenty years and don't really even know how much difference having the works an extra 12" behind you would make. (For all I know it makes it easier.) I wouldn't sweat this nearly as much if it wasn't a 400-mile trip. I do suspect that after I get the Jeep's maiden towing voyage out of the way I will quit worrying about things. I'm really just in the position of having a lot to get done and could do without any more complications than the ones that are unavoidable.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I wouldn't use an extender to tow. If the spare is in the way, just open the tail gate to hook up the trailer.

 

[John3seventeen]

If you do that on mine the tire hits the ball mount. If you get one of the longer ball mounts it'll slide in with the gate closed.

 

[CactusJacked]

I think by nature, my adjustable height receiver is longer than a conventional one. Here's how mine hangs...

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