Recommend Me Some Fluids

[belvedere]

and everything from Bob The Oil Guy is suppose to be right?
:shrug::happy175::icon_lol:

Of course not...there are lots of opinions there, just like in this thread. That's why I provided a link to hard numbers from an actual UOA.

 

[tommudd]

I know on my last XJ the guy who regeared it had his son put the fluids in the diffs. Always seemed sort of noisy, swapped out fluids after about 550-600 miles with regular Dino which I always used and within a couple of miles was way quieter. Stopped and questioned him and thats when his son told me what he had done. Ddin't seem to hurt the gears out another 250,000 on them but................:shrug:

 

[ltd02]

Like someone said earlier, everyone has a choice for their own vehicle. I was simply providing something besides internet folk lore. If the syn was inferior, wouldn't the wear metals be high? If someone can provide some actual credible evidence, I'd love to see it. Syn lubes (including gear oils) have worked great for me in many vehicles over the years.

That UOA is likely a readout from an optical emission spectrometer, which I believe is how UOAs are done these days. These instruments don't handle large suspended wear particles very well. If the data had been supplemented with a detailed assessment of lubricity and whether large particles were present it would be more meaningful. Don't get me wrong, I think UOAs are valuable for things like motor oil and helpful in this case too, but in this case I don't think a simple OES readout suffices.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I wouldn't bother with paying someone to undercoat it. I'd just spend a day with a wire wheel on a drill, rusty metal primer and paint. A lot of the KJ's underbelly is galvanized.

 

[profdlp]

I wouldn't bother with paying someone to undercoat it. I'd just spend a day with a wire wheel on a drill, rusty metal primer and paint. A lot of the KJ's underbelly is galvanized.

Truthfully, it keeps getting put off due to cost. When it was up on the lift at the dealer for the hitch recall last September everyone there (including myself) was amazed at how clean it looked. One mechanic remarked that there was no way it had been in NE Ohio for the past eight years. (He was correct, it was in VA Beach for the first six and a half years of its life.)

What paint is recommended? Can I do this without having it on a lift? I'd rather touch it up every year than wait until I can afford a pro job, at which point it may be too late anyway.

 

[CzarKJ]

My chief reasons for wanting to do the gear oil are these:

1) I don't know what they put in it when it was done in September of 2013.
2) With the extreme cold we have been having here the Jeep seems sluggish. The engine seems fine, so I'm think the gear boxes are meeting too much resistance.
3) I plan to do it way more often than needed and would like to be sure I know how. My theory on parts wear is that 90% of the wear happens on the last 20% of the life of the fluid. I plan to not get to that 20% usable life left point. It's kind of like in the gym, most injuries occur on either your first rep or at the end of a set when you are getting tired. I don't want any tired oil in my Jeep.

It'll probably be a week or two before I dive into the fluid changes. In the meantime, the PVC valves, etc., are fair game. I'm in VA right now and it's conceivable that we could see 50F degree weather by mid-March, which would make crawling around on the ground much more enjoyable.

I bought one of these at Harbor Freight last night to make the fluid changes a little easier. I'll let you know how it works. In the meantime, keep those suggestions coming. My successful water pump transplant two weeks ago has got me pumped to do more.

$7 worth of fun:

Multi-Use Transfer Pump

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If you use 85/140 plan on the diffs feeling like they are full of oatmeal at negative temps. Once they warm up they are fine haha.

 

[profdlp]

If you use 85/140 plan on the diffs feeling like they are full of oatmeal at negative temps. Once they warm up they are fine haha.

Off-roading is just a dream for me right now. Towing will be infrequent for the near future unless I end up moving locally in the Cleveland area. Even then it would be one crummy week of shorter trips. Do you think I need the 85/140 under those conditions?

 

[tjkj2002]

Truthfully, it keeps getting put off due to cost. When it was up on the lift at the dealer for the hitch recall last September everyone there (including myself) was amazed at how clean it looked. One mechanic remarked that there was no way it had been in NE Ohio for the past eight years. (He was correct, it was in VA Beach for the first six and a half years of its life.)

What paint is recommended? Can I do this without having it on a lift? I'd rather touch it up every year than wait until I can afford a pro job, at which point it may be too late anyway.

Cost $120 back home to undercoat,$$$ well spent.Granted it's law that every new vehicle sold must be undercoated before it leaves the lot.

Off-roading is just a dream for me right now. Towing will be infrequent for the near future unless I end up moving locally in the Cleveland area. Even then it would be one crummy week of shorter trips. Do you think I need the 85/140 under those conditions?

80w-90 will be just fine for you.

 

[tjkj2002]

UOAs on gear lube are kinda rare, but here's an example with a syn: Amsoil 75w90, 30K, 04 Chevy Tahoe | Gear & Transmission Used/Virgin Oil Analysis | Bob Is The Oil Guy

As you can see, the lab commented that wear metals were below average. Not sure where this internet myth started about syn gear oil being bad, but it's a myth that doesn't seem to want to die. I'd ask for some UOA proof from those perpetuating this old wive's tale.

One of the most highly sought after diffs/3rd members for extreme crawling................


I think the link is rather self explanatory.


True Hi9 high pinion Ford 9 inch third members richmond


In most cases a UOA is pointless since the failure has already happened.100% street driven(no heavy towing) vehicle will see a lot less stress and wear then if you venture offroad and pop that t-case lever into 4low.Then you start starving the bearings of oil in those slightest off camber areas.Do you want gear oil designed to flow easier or gear oil that is resistant to flowing so it stays in the bearings longer?

 

[kage860]

I use mobil 1 synthetic gear oil because IMO it will last longer and I don't want to have to change it all the time. Of course if you drive it through deep water you'll have to change it anyway.

At the power plant I work at we switched to synthetic gear oil in our gearboxes for the longer change intervals. We do periodic UOA on those gear boxes. Some of those motors cycle almost all the time. When particle count gets high we filter it. We rarely have to completely change the oil. They had me inspect some of the gears and after 10 years they look good to my mostly untrained eye.

If you think the gear oil is causing some sort of resistance you can check the temperature of the gearbox. Any "resistance" will show up as excessive heat or temperature. I use 75w-90 because I live in the snow belt and don't have anything to tow. 75w-90 will theoretically give slightly better gas mileage and run cooler compared to a thicker gear oil like 80w-140.

Otherwise I use dino oil for the engine because my mechanics does it for $30.

Like others have said, for the transmission use whatever atf+4 is cheapest but be aware that the 07 has no transmission dipstick. You'll have to buy one separate and fill to a preset level based on fluid temperature. I plan on doing a simple drain and fill every 60k.

For Coolant most of us use G05.

I usually flush brake fluid when I change brake pads. The legal wear limit is 2mm on pads and good practice is to change them at 4mm. I like Raybestos ceramics.

 

[tjkj2002]

If you think the gear oil is causing some sort of resistance you can check the temperature of the gearbox. Any "resistance" will show up as excessive heat or temperature. I use 75w-90 because I live in the snow belt and don't have anything to tow. 75w-90 will theoretically give slightly better gas mileage and run cooler compared to a thicker gear oil like 80w-140.

.

The gearbox(or this case diff) temp is a good indication of proper heat transfer.What you can't measure is the bearing temps unless you pull the cover.

 

[tommudd]

So you think using synthetic in the diffs is better since it last longer and flows better, BUT regular oil in the engine since the mechanic does it for 30 bucks.... :shrug: Ok .......
Also while I don't know what you do, there is a difference in the way gears are ran, the way they are treated etc from in a factory to street use. Factory is generally one speed, no huge differences in temp. changes, no start/stopping speeding up//slowing down a few hundred times a week etc

 

[kuench]

....

Like others have said, for the transmission use whatever atf+4 is cheapest but be aware that the 07 has no transmission dipstick. You'll have to buy one separate and fill to a preset level based on fluid temperature. I plan on doing a simple drain and fill every 60k.
...

I thought I didn't have one because I have a manual transmission.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Truthfully, it keeps getting put off due to cost. When it was up on the lift at the dealer for the hitch recall last September everyone there (including myself) was amazed at how clean it looked. One mechanic remarked that there was no way it had been in NE Ohio for the past eight years. (He was correct, it was in VA Beach for the first six and a half years of its life.)

What paint is recommended? Can I do this without having it on a lift? I'd rather touch it up every year than wait until I can afford a pro job, at which point it may be too late anyway.

I just use rustoleum stuff. Spray is fine, brush on is for the ********. :happy175:My undercarriage looks near perfect and I haven't painted it for a few years.

 

[tommudd]

Yes rustoleum hammertone touch up every spring, full paint every fall
after 12 years .....well not going to think how many coats of paint on some parts ....

 

[ftaa]

i have to paint my rust errrr rear axel

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I just use rustoleum stuff. Spray is fine, brush on is for the ********. :happy175:My undercarriage looks near perfect and I haven't painted it for a few years.

Ahhh HJ, you can't fool me. You may not have PAINTED it in a few years, but you wash it EVERY DAY!!! :happy175::happy175::happy175:

:waytogo:

For the record I also use Rustoleum Hammer Black for the undercarriage. And like Tom I'll do a complete wire brush and cleanup this Spring so will probably use a full can.

Bob

 

[TheBlueKJ]

For fluids, I use Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 in the engine with a Purolator Pureone filter, gear oil Valvoline 85-140 dino, tcase is Castrol ATF +4, same with ****** fluid and P/S fluid, brake is DOT 3 and I'll just add some input on the brake inspection and fluid change.

When you change the fluid you'll want to do it by bleeding the whole system and adding new fluid as the m/c gets low since if you only change the m/c fluid the old fluid will still be in the lines and calipers, and the worst of the fluid will be in the calipers.

Don't forget to check the caliper slide pins and boots as they can freeze up and cause you to burn up you're brakes, ask me how I know:mad3:

For the undercoating, I used Duplicolor rubberized undercoating and it's held up great. I used blue and black paint (the brand name escapes me atm it was a paint that adhered better to metal) for the suspension and axles which I repaint as needed. I also repaired both rusted out rockers in the beginning of the fall and couldn't have been happier with the results just check my build thread for that.

 

[tommudd]

Ahhh HJ, you can't fool me. You may not have PAINTED it in a few years, but you wash it EVERY DAY!!! :happy175::happy175::happy175:

:waytogo:

For the record I also use Rustoleum Hammer Black for the undercarriage. And like Tom I'll do a complete wire brush and cleanup this Spring so will probably use a full can.

Bob

Just a " full can" :shrug:
When I moved from Swanton after 2 years I had 37 empty cans of Hammer tone paint .....couldn't throw them in the trash up there so had to bring them to the new place to toss them.
Generally I'll use two - three cans each time under mine
This spring will be more since rear bumper/ rockrails etc all are coming off for a good clean up and paint

 

[flair1111]

for oil i use mobile 1 full syn high mileage

for axles front and back i use regular dino gear oil.

for trans and trans case i us castrol atf+4. i think its used in the ps pump to iirc. havent changed that in a while. cant remember.

for radiator i use hoat from the dealer.

for the wife i use my ***** lol!!