Repainted some things

[HoosierJeeper]

The tow hook I had in the hitch was starting to look nasty...so I sanded and painted that. The constant vibrations of it in the hitch wore off the paint on the hitch, and that was starting to surface rust a bit. Sand/painted the receiver as well, didn't get a before pic of it, but it was just like the hook condition wise.
Pics:

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Sanded

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Hitch done- looks almost new:

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How does this fit into the fabrication section? I continued to fabricate my happiness for cleanness. :happy175:

 

[HoosierJeeper]

And a the pic of the hook after drying:

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[Dave]

Now that you got it all cleaned up get a cover for the receiver to keep dirt and crud out of there. You can get the jeep one at the dealer or on line or check wallyworld. Then keep the tow hook with your recovery gear in the jeep until you are going to use it. Then put the hook in before you go off-road. Just takes 30 seconds and stays cleaner that way. Besides, you don't neen the tow hook at the mall......:smokin:



Dave

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I might do that...but right now I'm still letting it dry...

 

[LibertyFever]

Nice job. You've reminded me that I should do the same for my hitch receiver.
Also while you're at it take the time to clean out the trailer electrical plug too. Mine always seems to fill full of mud & water & eventually corrodes.

You could always keep the dirt out with one of these;

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http://www.autotrucktoys.com/liberty/Hitch-Critters-Jeep-Liberty-Animated-Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Covers-P9979C523.aspx

or better still;

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[HoosierJeeper]

I'll check the electrical plug next weekend...thanks for the tip.

The first hitch cover is awesome...

 

[Porkchop]

A little bulb grease and a cap on the electrical plug works wounders you can get them cheep at any auto parts like only 4 or 5 bucks for the two.

 

[TAHOE]

Thats what I have, except he lost his back legs when I backed into a snow mound.( the Ohio group has seen it) You still have to have hitch mounted in receiver, little horsey's butt goes over the ball.
HJ you must have OCD if that is all rusty to you....I've had to use BFH to get mine out of receiver cause it was rusted in there....:freak3::happy175:

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[KeswickDave]

little horsey's butt goes over the ball.

Ouch! (rotflmao)

 

[Warren.fischbeck]

The horsey likes it.

 

[TAHOE]

The horsey likes it.

He does have a slight grin on his face :happy175:

 

[Warren.fischbeck]

He does have a slight grin on his face :happy175:

Would you call it a ball sitting grin?

 

[LibertyTC]

After 2-3 coats of paint, if you use TremClad Clear Coat, you will have a tough improved finish.
After painting and 3 coats clear, my hitch, 2 years later has not one spot of rust.
I expect clear coated steel to last easily 5 years without ever re-painting.
Improve your paint jobs easily!!
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[boebr1]

Trying to remember what acid you use for the bath... maybe hydrochloric? if you leave your metal parts in a metal bucket on a stove or burner, let them cook over night, it removes all the paint and rust, and leaves a slight zinc oxide coating to the part. makes parts as good as new. worked awsome on door hinges for my old scout, and bolts and nuts etc... just prime and paint when its all done

 

[huntbuggy]

After 2-3 coats of paint, if you use TremClad Clear Coat, you will have a tough improved finish.
After painting and 3 coats clear, my hitch, 2 years later has not one spot of rust.
I expect clear coated steel to last easily 5 years without ever re-painting.
Improve your paint jobs easily!!

Yup took your advice and after 2 coats black did 3 coats clear on the new transfer case skid... just used the cheap stuff from Princess Auto.

Just wish I had done my Reese hitch when I put it on a few years ago but needed to use it right away and wasn't thinking. It's starting to rust at the tube corners and the receiver too.

Another thing on the list before rust get too bad I guess.

 

[boebr1]

Something that everyone might want to consider before going through a lot of work trying to make their steel parts pretty again...
powdercoating...
Not terribly expensive if you have a shop around that does it, many different colors to pick from, including clear (clear red or blue on bare steel is kinda pretty)
even cheaper if you have an old oven you can put in your shop, and do it yourself, of course the biggest part you can do is what will fit in the oven.

upsides to powdercoating is it's very durable, looks good as long as it's still on there, doesn't scuff easily.
downside... when you do finally scrape through it, and you apply touch up paint, it's very hard to make it look perfect again. does cost more than a cheap diy rattle can job, but probably about the same as if you had to buy the sand paper, primer, paint, and clear if you are using the more expensive rattle cans

 

[LibertyTC]

Clear Coat - The Wet Look

Yup took your advice and after 2 coats black did 3 coats clear on the new transfer case skid... just used the cheap stuff from Princess Auto.
Just wish I had done my Reese hitch when I put it on a few years ago but needed to use it right away and wasn't thinking. It's starting to rust at the tube corners and the receiver too.
Another thing on the list before rust get too bad I guess.

The Tremclad clear coat will protect the paint finish for many years to come. I am sure you were happy with the look of your new transfer case skid!
Before using the clear coat, let the paint dry for 2 days at room temp. If you go to close while spraying clear on, it can run easily, or melt the paint if you did not let it dry the two days. I generally spray clear back about 14" and in light coats.
You can do clear applications about every hour as it drys pretty quick if you do spray it lightly. Here is my wet look with 2 coats paint-3 clear.
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