Steering Rack- Rubber Bushing Broken
- Thread starter LibertyTC
- Start date
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family KJ
JPOTM WINNER
See the link below.. I purchased the bushing on line, you should pay around
($14-$20).. I have not completed it yet, but the thread has some good instructions.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47781
($14-$20).. I have not completed it yet, but the thread has some good instructions.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47781
Where did you get the bushing from ? Link?
Since it is the top bushing only, I assume I should simply be able to remove bolt and install new rubber bushing then and re-tighten?
Since it is the top bushing only, I assume I should simply be able to remove bolt and install new rubber bushing then and re-tighten?
family KJ
JPOTM WINNER
It looks like that, it is not. It is a through bushing. I just went to google for jeep liberty parts, I honestly don't remember, but there are only a few that carry the bushing that come up on google. When you read the link, you will see more about it. I wish it were just a top bushing, it would have been done already.
twack
Full Access Member
mines been like that for 40k miles you guys had any ill affects or noises from it
Last oil change at the dealers, they spilt syn.oil all over from the oil filter, and now now the bushings shot. I am going to see if there is any movement in steering rack.
Should check torque on bolt, not sure is that 120 ft.lb for gear to frame bolts?
Should check torque on bolt, not sure is that 120 ft.lb for gear to frame bolts?
Here are some videos click on image to see them.
In this one you can see how the broken worn bushing expands & contracts based on:
Quick one quarter turns left and right.
This one also shows whole rack moving where the 3 metal lines are on top.
WTF? I wonder how much a good bushing should move?
What is this doing to steering or control of?
In this one you can see how the broken worn bushing expands & contracts based on:
Quick one quarter turns left and right.
You must be registered for see images attach
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You must be registered for see images attach
[/URL]This one also shows whole rack moving where the 3 metal lines are on top.
You must be registered for see images attach
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You must be registered for see images attach
[/URL]WTF? I wonder how much a good bushing should move?
What is this doing to steering or control of?
The new dealer bushing arrives today.
I am going to use it as a template to source out some rubber washers as a "Band Aid"
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=45830&highlight=
I have just inspected the driver's side bushing on the bottom. It appears to be in good shape from what I can see, and feel, though the skid plate. So my plan is to obtain Permatex #1 form a gasket, probably end up cutting out the bad gasket on the top, and use permatex to fill in around steel sleeve, and place new rubber washers on top to hold it all together better, place bolt back though and tighten back down to 120 ft-lbs.
Jayme, you replaced these bushings were were you able to replace the driver's side with out removing the entire rack?
I am going to use it as a template to source out some rubber washers as a "Band Aid"
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=45830&highlight=
I have just inspected the driver's side bushing on the bottom. It appears to be in good shape from what I can see, and feel, though the skid plate. So my plan is to obtain Permatex #1 form a gasket, probably end up cutting out the bad gasket on the top, and use permatex to fill in around steel sleeve, and place new rubber washers on top to hold it all together better, place bolt back though and tighten back down to 120 ft-lbs.
Jayme, you replaced these bushings were were you able to replace the driver's side with out removing the entire rack?
yellocoyote
Administrator
Replied to your PM.
Even though I now have one Napa replacement bushing, which is different than factory since it has no flange, I am preparing myself to remove skids & bolt to attempt a top of bushing repair.
The plan is to cut away the sloppy rubber and prepare a band aid kit.
I will get dealer bushing next week so see how that one compares if my fix does not work.
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Have had good success with PolyUrethane once cured, so the plan is to fill in the gap after stuff is cut away and prep for the bolt to really hold it down from the top, taking out the slack.
39695[/ATTACH]"]
When the stainless Shop is open I also am going to have stainless washers just in case those are needed and could coat them in a rubber poly if need be, to get things tightened up..will know more once I am into this job.
The plan is to cut away the sloppy rubber and prepare a band aid kit.
I will get dealer bushing next week so see how that one compares if my fix does not work.
39693[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
Have had good success with PolyUrethane once cured, so the plan is to fill in the gap after stuff is cut away and prep for the bolt to really hold it down from the top, taking out the slack.
39695[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
When the stainless Shop is open I also am going to have stainless washers just in case those are needed and could coat them in a rubber poly if need be, to get things tightened up..will know more once I am into this job.
Attachments
family KJ
JPOTM WINNER
I am not understanding why you would not just change out the bushing, aside from it taking an hour or two more. Why do a "band-aid" repair
Simplicity on bolt..no fun having to replace bushing.
an alignment was just done and I do not want to deal with all that is associated to it right now.
Got brakes to do next week as well.
an alignment was just done and I do not want to deal with all that is associated to it right now.
Got brakes to do next week as well.
You done it,it blows...with teeth.
family KJ
JPOTM WINNER
I would agree with both... Maintenance takes up a lot of time...that is for sure
At shop on lift, removed skid plates, and air tooled off the driver's side bushing bolt.
I thought that the washer may have had a collar below, but here is the pic of bolt.
39871[/ATTACH]"]
So after bolt was removed, this is what the bushing looks like:
39873[/ATTACH]"]
SO since we believed that overall the rubber was still in good condition, and only the top part of the seal was broken, it was time to re-install bolt at 120-ft. lbs.
Basically left it as is, and after torquing down, it is fine now. There is no more sideways movement, and the gasket squishing thing that was going on in the video, is also finished. Looks like for now all is well, but I plan sometime when an alignment is due, to replace both steering rack bushings anyways.
Does anyone know if any poly bushings exist for rack & pinion.?
Going to send off to energy suspension an inquiry.
I thought that the washer may have had a collar below, but here is the pic of bolt.
39871[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
So after bolt was removed, this is what the bushing looks like:
39873[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
SO since we believed that overall the rubber was still in good condition, and only the top part of the seal was broken, it was time to re-install bolt at 120-ft. lbs.
Basically left it as is, and after torquing down, it is fine now. There is no more sideways movement, and the gasket squishing thing that was going on in the video, is also finished. Looks like for now all is well, but I plan sometime when an alignment is due, to replace both steering rack bushings anyways.
Does anyone know if any poly bushings exist for rack & pinion.?
Going to send off to energy suspension an inquiry.
Attachments
Last edited:
yellocoyote
Administrator
If you replace the entire rack, the bushings come with it.
Jayme,
The material choice of light weight rubber and design of bushing aint the best choice.
Poly bushing would be better as oil & chemical resistant, and hopefully stronger.
No need to replace the rack @ this point, just bushings would secure things.
Last time I contacted energy suspension they had brought KJ's in for engineering design/ samples.
Wonder if anything ever came to production on KJ's from them?
The material choice of light weight rubber and design of bushing aint the best choice.
Poly bushing would be better as oil & chemical resistant, and hopefully stronger.
No need to replace the rack @ this point, just bushings would secure things.
Last time I contacted energy suspension they had brought KJ's in for engineering design/ samples.
Wonder if anything ever came to production on KJ's from them?
yellocoyote
Administrator
I hadn't heard that anyone was making anything other than an OEM replacement. That'll be interesting to see if/when they can make a poly replacement.
I am going to call them on Monday, they must have specs, if they brought KJ's in.
With only 38k miles on my KJ the 7 years are taking toll on bushings.
Also had to replace rear lower control arm bushings. (afraid to look at tri-link)
If I find anything new from Energy suspension, will post back info.
With only 38k miles on my KJ the 7 years are taking toll on bushings.
Also had to replace rear lower control arm bushings. (afraid to look at tri-link)
If I find anything new from Energy suspension, will post back info.
yellocoyote
Administrator
Yeah, I haven't even looked at the tri-link on mine. I probably should. :-s
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GriffinNew Member