The Case of the Missing PCV Valve

[profdlp]

Why not just warm up the engine?

I actually had the same thought on the way home from Harbor Freight just now. Part II of my task is to find a socket big enough (and deep enough) to make removal and installation of the PCV Valve a little easier. The biggest HF had was 32mm and a 1-1/4", both of which were just barely too small. Ran across the street to Advance Auto and they had some huge sockets, but the smallest of those was a 35mm and it was just barely too big. I'm guessing it must be either a 33mm or 34mm, unless the daggone thing is SAE.

Now I know why pro mechanics need a tool box the size of an upright piano. :emotions34:

I will try warming the engine and/or using the hair dryer. Once the boot is off I may get lucky and be able to squeeze a big crescent wrench in there, though I only use crescent wrenches as a last resort. I'm guessing the thing doesn't need to be torqued down like I was adjusting bolts on a box girder bridge.

 

[twowings]

And don't forget to dry your hair!

 

[John3seventeen]

I dont know but it sounds to me like your trying to take the crankcase vent tube out not a PCV valve.

 

[profdlp]

If I remember (fat chance!) I'll snag some pictures of it when I try again. I'm sure the part I'm trying to take out is identical to the PCV Valve I just got to put in, though. I have also seen it referred to by other names ( FILLER ASSY VALVE | Genuine Mopar | 53034065AA ).

It rattles like it ought to, anyway.

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Part #2

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[John3seventeen]

Looks like they combined it - gee your lucky!

 

[profdlp]

I'll feel luckier once I get it changed out! :happy175:

 

[profdlp]

Just found a socket for it at Autozone. It is a 34mm. Thanks! arty52:

I followed the advice given earlier and tried removing the boot with the engine hot. It was stuck tighter than...things which are stuck on tight. I took the hose end out of the boot and was at least able to spin it around, which was progress over trying to do it cold. While twisting it around trying to free it I found out that the brown part is affixed to the metallic housing by a bayonet plug deal and got that part out of the way. If you're doing this yourself and don't have an extra deep socket (like the one I just paid $15 for), disassembling it would let a shallow socket do the job. Since I had come this far I got out my shiny new 34mm socket and got down to serious business. Then things took an ugly turn...

In my haste to run home and cross this project off my list I did not think about the fact that it takes a 1/2" drive. My sets are 3/8" and 1/4". :Stupid Me:

I think both of my small socket sets cost about as much as the new 34mm socket I picked up today. Tomorrow I will be buying a 1/2" drive set as well. At least it was on my list tools to add at some point. I am going to ask about employment opportunities at Harbor Freight. What the heck, I'm up there every day anyway. Might as well get paid for it. :emotions34:

With the old PCV Valve now in two pieces I was at least able to gently pry the boot off the brown end with a flat tip screwdriver. I also discovered that I had an inch long blister on my forefinger from twisting the hot boot around with my bare hands. My mechanic's gloves are still in my tool bag, nice and clean. I'd trade the blister for a little grease on them at this point. I ended up putting all the old PCV stuff back on, so it's back to square one. At least I now know HOW to do this, at least.

I hope to have this finished tomorrow. My theory as to why the dealer charges $90 to do this is that the mechanics have a fine jar they need to pay into for when they cuss. They might make $40 on the job, but about $35 of it will go to the fine jar by the time they are through. :favorites68:

 

[ltd02]

You could just get a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter for now unless you think you'll really need a 1/2 set soon. Shouldn't take to much oomph to get the valve off that you'd require anything too heavy duty. I just did a similar thing when I had to change an electric water heater element. Gigantic 1-1/2" socket (1/2" drive) but just used an adapter and my 3/8" ratchet.

 

[twowings]

Adapter a LOT cheaper than a whole 1/2" set...you'll get it...might need a cheater pipe or breaker bar...

 

[profdlp]

I may do that. After all the twists and turns this seemingly simple task has taken I cam close to sticking a pipe wrench on the socket itself and doing it the hillbilly way.

How many of you non-pros feel that a 1/2" drive set is a must?

 

[profdlp]

I should have added that the actual threaded part is only as big around as my pinkie. It's not like it will need to be torqued down like the anchor windlass on the battleship Missouri. If I thought I would eventually need a 1/2" set at some point I'd probably start with a cheap one from Harbor Freight.

 

[LibertyTC]

I have to say even though I have 1/2 and 3/4 tools, I can adapt easily to 3/8 and my trusted long handle ratchet works great to break it free in most situations.
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Shorter handle ratchets often do need a cheater bar! :rockit:

 

[profdlp]

I remembered why I passed on the 1/2" drive set when I got the others - there is quite a price jump between 3/8" and 1/2" sets. Got a four pack of adapters for $5 and called it good.

Anyway, got it done! ==> http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-replace-pcv-valve-some-2007-up-jeep-liberty-57837/#post654835 <==

Thanks to all for their great advice.

 

[twowings]

You might want to start thinking in terms of impact tools as far as a 1/2" set...sure saves a LOT of aching muscles when you let air do the work...even my punk Bosch pancake compressor will drive my 1/2" impact gun and 3/8" air ratchet...I might be SOL with a die grinder or a d/a sander, though...YMMV

 

[profdlp]

I'm planning for that at some point. Will be nice.