UHAUL + Libby = Questions

[smarkham]

Hello.

Thanks for all of your advice in the past.

My company is tranferring me from Baltimore MD to San Antonio TX. Getting all my shi...errrr stuff together and heading down South. Yeeeha...
I don't know about the yeeeha...but okay..I'm trying to fit in.

So I'm renting a UHAUL Cargo Trailer (5xi8)
http://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/default.aspx

I"m getting a hitch and all that installed in my KJ at the Uhaul rental place. Good deal..about $165 for all the equipment + installation.

Once I get going, do I drive in "D" or "1" or "2"? I have an Automatic.

I'm also thinking of getting the oil changed right before I leave.

And one more thing..my steering wheel shakes when I brake. I"m sure it's the rotors. I'm short on cash so I'd rather not change them until I get to TX. The brake pads are in great condition...got new ones late last year.

So any tips/advice about Uhauling with my KJ?

THANKS!

 

[yellocoyote]

Drive it in 'D' with your overdrive (OD) turned off.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Got the tow package?

I'll be towing a 6x12, fully loaded from FL to WI in a month. Going to put the tow package to good use through the mtns...

 

[twack]

as for the shaking while braking that probably your rotors. Libertys tend to warp them pretty easy, you can get them 'turned' by a shop like napa for cheaper or you just buy new ones

 

[tjkj2002]

as for the shaking while braking that probably your rotors. Libertys tend to warp them pretty easy, you can get them 'turned' by a shop like napa for cheaper or you just buy new ones

Turning rotors makes that "shake" come back much faster as the rotor is warped and you can not un-warp any metal.Cutting them only trues them but the warp is still there as it is in the molecular level,plus your taking more metal off the rotors which reduce there ability to disapate heat thus "warping" them much faster or continue warping them as a much faster rate.

Basically buy new rotors,never turn any rotor.

 

[Neal]

Turning rotors makes that "shake" come back much faster as the rotor is warped and you can not un-warp any metal.Cutting them only trues them but the warp is still there as it is in the molecular level,plus your taking more metal off the rotors which reduce there ability to disapate heat thus "warping" them much faster or continue warping them as a much faster rate.

Basically buy new rotors,never turn any rotor.

No, taking off more metal will NOT reduce the ability to dissipate heat(exactly the opposite) think which stays hot longer a red hot chunk of 1/2 inch steel or a thin chuink of the same metal.
That being said turning rotors is not a great idea -just get new ones.

 

[tjkj2002]

No, taking off more metal will NOT reduce the ability to dissipate heat(exactly the opposite) think which stays hot longer a red hot chunk of 1/2 inch steel or a thin chuink of the same metal.
That being said turning rotors is not a great idea -just get new ones.

Yeah but that 1/2" thick rotor will take more heat then say a 1/4" rotor before deforming,the whole basis of a brake system.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Turning rotors makes that "shake" come back much faster as the rotor is warped and you can not un-warp any metal.Cutting them only trues them but the warp is still there as it is in the molecular level,plus your taking more metal off the rotors which reduce there ability to disapate heat thus "warping" them much faster or continue warping them as a much faster rate.

Basically buy new rotors,never turn any rotor.

I have had my rotors turned and had ZERO problems with the brakes.

Your "Buy new rotors never turn any rotor" is BS.
Even AUDI, VW, Mercedes Benz turns their rotors.

 

[LibertyTC]

Smarkham,
I know if I was trailering I would definitely not want to pull with front brake shimmy.
I would want that problem addressed before the trip.
AS Ryan mentioned....if there is enough metal left on the rotors for a turn, that would be acceptable in the sense that you certainly do not want a front end wobble transfered into the trailer with greatly removed stopping power. Get the brakes fixed before you go.

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Towing a uhaul trailer is definitely not a point and go type of tow. The maintenance on the rental trailers is usually less than stellar. Be sure to check the trailer over completely. tires, surge-brakes, hoses, coupler, lights all need to be checked by YOU! Do not trust the Uhaul people. Check the install they do of the hitch...verify the bolts are correct grade and tight.

As far as driving, you have to pay attention to what the transmission is doing. When towing above 3000 pounds, I always shift the trans manually when starting off. This allows me to bring the rpms up to about 3700 before shifting to the next gear. This will allow the motor to stay in the meat of the powercurve and not fall off. This also allows the front pump in the trans to keep pressure built.

Accellerate slowly off the line, build rpms, shift into second, repeat for 3rd. When you feel the torque converter lock up, continue to accellerate to about 60mph. If you are on flat ground, you can shift into OD, but be sure you gain TC lockup again. When you feel the tc lockup, you can build speed slowly again. The key is to keep the TC locked up. When in lockup, you do not get the heat buildup as when in fluid-coupling mode. when begining to climb a hill, the TC will unlock to increase the torque multiplication. At this time take it out of overdrive, and fether the throttle to try to regain lockup. Smaller hills will allow this, larger hills it will be difficult to get the lockup.

As for the brake rotors, The factory rotors usually only have about 5-7 thousandths of material above minimum spec. If you turn them to get a fresh surface, you most likely will be at min spec. Replacement rotors are in the same boat. These are basically throw-away rotors. Put a micrometer on the rotor....you will see that they are at min spec..again this is the way they come from the factory.

For brake pads and towing...semi-metallic are the way to go. Ceramic pads are good if you do not tow much, and are concerned about dusting, but they do not have the co-EF for towing applications. The semi-metallics are noiser and dustier, but they will haul the load to a stop faster than the ceramics.

 

[smarkham]

Towing a uhaul trailer is definitely not a point and go type of tow. The maintenance on the rental trailers is usually less than stellar. Be sure to check the trailer over completely. tires, surge-brakes, hoses, coupler, lights all need to be checked by YOU! Do not trust the Uhaul people. Check the install they do of the hitch...verify the bolts are correct grade and tight.

As far as driving, you have to pay attention to what the transmission is doing. When towing above 3000 pounds, I always shift the trans manually when starting off. This allows me to bring the rpms up to about 3700 before shifting to the next gear. This will allow the motor to stay in the meat of the powercurve and not fall off. This also allows the front pump in the trans to keep pressure built.

Accellerate slowly off the line, build rpms, shift into second, repeat for 3rd. When you feel the torque converter lock up, continue to accellerate to about 60mph. If you are on flat ground, you can shift into OD, but be sure you gain TC lockup again. When you feel the tc lockup, you can build speed slowly again. The key is to keep the TC locked up. When in lockup, you do not get the heat buildup as when in fluid-coupling mode. when begining to climb a hill, the TC will unlock to increase the torque multiplication. At this time take it out of overdrive, and fether the throttle to try to regain lockup. Smaller hills will allow this, larger hills it will be difficult to get the lockup.

As for the brake rotors, The factory rotors usually only have about 5-7 thousandths of material above minimum spec. If you turn them to get a fresh surface, you most likely will be at min spec. Replacement rotors are in the same boat. These are basically throw-away rotors. Put a micrometer on the rotor....you will see that they are at min spec..again this is the way they come from the factory.

For brake pads and towing...semi-metallic are the way to go. Ceramic pads are good if you do not tow much, and are concerned about dusting, but they do not have the co-EF for towing applications. The semi-metallics are noiser and dustier, but they will haul the load to a stop faster than the ceramics.

Thanks for the advice...but I have an automatic.

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Exactly...I was talking about the automatic. Manually shift the auto through the gears. While doing so, keep your foot steady on the throttle...do not lift the throttle as you would in a standard.

You console shifter has 3 2 1 detents. Start off in 1, accel slowly to 3700 or so, hold foot in the throttle, bump the shifter to 2, repeat accell to 3700, bump shifter into 3, feel Torque converter lockup (will cause an approx 300 rpm drop), roll onto throttle lightly. If you roll into the throttle too heavily, you will cause the tc to unlock and posibbly a 3-2 downshift.

If on flat ground, you can shift into OD around 60mph, and obtain TC lockup.

 

[tjkj2002]

Exactly...I was talking about the automatic. Manually shift the auto through the gears. While doing so, keep your foot steady on the throttle...do not lift the throttle as you would in a standard.

You console shifter has 3 2 1 detents. Start off in 1, accel slowly to 3700 or so, hold foot in the throttle, bump the shifter to 2, repeat accell to 3700, bump shifter into 3, feel Torque converter lockup (will cause an approx 300 rpm drop), roll onto throttle lightly. If you roll into the throttle too heavily, you will cause the tc to unlock and posibbly a 3-2 downshift.

If on flat ground, you can shift into OD around 60mph, and obtain TC lockup.

Just lockout OD and let the trans do it's thing,no need to manually shift a auto.

 

[Straight6Jeff]

TJKJ....The trans programming up is not set up for heavy towing. Locking out overdrive does not do anything to change the shift characteristics at low speeds. By manually selecting the shift points, the rpm is kept in the meatier part of the engines usable powerband, the pump pressure is kept higher (confirmed by test port monitoring) trans heat is kept lower due to increased circulation, decreased fluid shear, decreased (trans temp gauges confirmed this on a daily basis).

Towing through the White Mountains, having the trans in 3 and letting it do its thing resulted in 250 degree temps and constant hunting. Manually selecting the gears brought the temps down to 175 degrees.

Vehicle used was an 02 with the 45RFE

 

[Ry' N Jen]

TJKJ....The trans programming up is not set up for heavy towing. Locking out overdrive does not do anything to change the shift characteristics at low speeds. By manually selecting the shift points, the rpm is kept in the meatier part of the engines usable powerband, the pump pressure is kept higher (confirmed by test port monitoring) trans heat is kept lower due to increased circulation, decreased fluid shear, decreased (trans temp gauges confirmed this on a daily basis).

Towing through the White Mountains, having the trans in 3 and letting it do its thing resulted in 250 degree temps and constant hunting. Manually selecting the gears brought the temps down to 175 degrees.

Vehicle used was an 02 with the 45RFE

Well said!

 

[tjkj2002]

TJKJ....The trans programming up is not set up for heavy towing. Locking out overdrive does not do anything to change the shift characteristics at low speeds. By manually selecting the shift points, the rpm is kept in the meatier part of the engines usable powerband, the pump pressure is kept higher (confirmed by test port monitoring) trans heat is kept lower due to increased circulation, decreased fluid shear, decreased (trans temp gauges confirmed this on a daily basis).

Towing through the White Mountains, having the trans in 3 and letting it do its thing resulted in 250 degree temps and constant hunting. Manually selecting the gears brought the temps down to 175 degrees.

Vehicle used was an 02 with the 45RFE

If your trans was that hot your engine would have overheated also.I towed 4200lbs trailer from Ft Lewis WA to Ft Carson CO which is far from flat and my trans temp never reached 175 degrees with my 45RFE.Never manually shifted just kept OD locked out.

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Engine was slightly warmer than normal, but not overheating. So no, it was not overheating.....

Everyone has their own towing style....what's comfortable for one may not be comfortable for another....

 

[tjkj2002]

Engine was slightly warmer than normal, but not overheating. So no, it was not overheating.....

Everyone has their own towing style....what's comfortable for one may not be comfortable for another....

No you were pushing it to hard.

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Think what ever you like...you were not in the vehicle to see the conditions. When the temp spiked, granted, it was an intentional spike to see the difference in manually holding 2nd gear and letting the trans do its thing; but it was by no means driving it to hard. A 70 degree spike can occur in a matter of 30 seconds behind a stack-shift and loose converter. Throttle position stayed the approx same when in 3 and when manually shifting. Neither one was a full throttle run. Speed up the hill (approx 12% grade) was under 20mph. When teh trans shifted into 3rd, the shift was normal (read: lazy shift), the rpms dropped to approx 1200 (well below stall), and the temp spiked.

If the stock programming in the trans is so great, or for that matter any trans, why would the afternarket spend so much time to develope reprogramming kits, flashes, manual hold programs? The stock trans is designed for the masses, not the outliers who will use the vehicle for towing, rock-crawling, mudding, or drag racing. A trans can be made to live beyond it's normal intended operating parameters for a long time, but thought has to be payed on how to make it live.

 

[LibertyFever]

Okay I'll add my two cents since I have towed U-Haul trailers and my own trailers in the past.

I have to agree with what "Straight6Jeff" and "TJKJ2002" have said.

U-Haul trailers are known to have safety issues. The ones that I have rented were often is hard shape, poorly maintained and missing safety equipment. Be at the U-Haul dealership the day before you need the trailer to pick out the best one on the lot otherwise you'll get stuck with the "runt of the litter".

If I were you I'd have the brakes fixed before you go. You don't want to breakdown late at night down some backwoods road. "Is that banjo music I hear???" Likely replacing the rotors is the wisest choice.

And as for driving technique, that all depends on you, the weather & road conditions and the load you're hauling. I say turn off the OverDrive and let the automatic do it's job and use the cruise control on the flat stretches.