kb0nly
Full Access Member
Here ya go, see the two lines coming down into the cooler in the first hole of the grille there on the right?
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Want Tow Package for '02 KJ (hitch, wiring, etc.) -- any suggestions?
- Thread starter tomjonesrocks
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Marlon_JB2
Kombat Edition Jeep
My sister's '05 with towing package has the P/S cooler. I can't remember if my '04 had it but I'm about 100% positive it DID NOT without the towing package.
EDIT: Post corrected, I was thinking of a different Liberty.
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tomjonesrocks
Full Access Member
Ahh cool--I have that. And the transmission cooler. So that's a good bit of the tow package already. So if I go aftermarket it sounds like I'll be settling for the 4 pin wiring (vs. the at least potentially more difficult to install 7-pin) and the extra small fan and shroud. Hmm.
Basically the 7-pin are for if you're going to have trailer brakes and the 4-pin are for if you aren't--correct?
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tjkj2002
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I've worked on a '04 KJ with the OEM tow package(from the factory) and did not have the P/S cooler.
Marlon_JB2
Kombat Edition Jeep
I actually forgot to update it, I found some pics of my '04 (tear), and it didn't have the P/S cooler. I had to be thinking of my cousin's '02 then... (which was also red)
Ry' N Jen
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Our '04 has a power steering cooler.
kb0nly
Full Access Member
If you have those coolers i would just put on a hitch and wiring and run with it, unless you run into overheating problems with towing a couple tons of weight i wouldn't worry about reworking the fans.
And yes, the 7-pin is to allow for brakes and an aux. power to the item your towing. For most, unless you happen to have brakes on your boat trailer, your only going to need the regular 4-pin flat.
Waiting for UPS to show up today with my goodies!
kb0nly
Full Access Member
Got my hitch and wiring today and its all installed now. Some observations and suggestions..
First of all on the hitch, if you got a skid plate over your tank unlike me then your probably not going to have as much trouble because there is already bolts in the holes keeping the nuts clean from debris. But if you don't have a skid plate then beg or borrow a tap off someone and run it through the threads to clean them up. I used what i had available, a plumbers brush for cleaning out caps and fittings when soldering together copper pipe, and some liquid wrench to get all the dirt and rust out. Then i ran a bolt in and out of each hole with some more liquid wrench until i had them clean enough to take the bolts.
Next is something they don't tell you in the instructions, the front passengers side bolt was a serious PITA. At least on my 03' KJ Sport with the 3.7L the exhaust goes across right under the head of that bolt and its a serious pain to do it. I finally managed after about 40 minutes to get it in with a combination of wrenches and a breaker bar, but if i could have pulled off the tire to give me a little more room to swing the wrench it would have taken maybe ten minutes, if i had a jack. Long story but i bought my KJ and the jack was missing, the only other jack i have is in the wife's car and she was gone, so yeah it was a reminder that i need to buy a jack for the KJ yet again. So just expect that bolt to possibly be a serious pain.
The wiring went super easy but the instructions for the 42475 wiring kit from etrailer made by Hopkins isn't correct. Yes its a powered converter, but it doesn't have a battery lead coming off it anymore, there is a ground wire that you have to attach to the body of the vehicle with the included self tapping screw, the power is drawn through the inline plug now taking its power from one of the wires in the vehicles harness. I haven't been able to find a pinout for that large plug back there that this goes inline with so i don't know for sure which circuit its pulling off of but i can tell you the red wire in the instructions now goes to the plug instead of off to the battery or other source.
The rubber plug in the floor on mine i couldn't get it pulled out of the grommet its in, and if i did what would seal up the hole? The instructions wasn't very clear on that. So i cut a slit across the rubber floor plug and passed the wiring through and then sealed it back up with some silicone. Shouldn't cause any problems.
The Draw-Tite from etrailers was backordered and out of stock, so i went with the Curt model instead. Plenty heavy duty, and just plain damn heavy lifting it up into place! Overall i am very pleased with the install though.
First of all on the hitch, if you got a skid plate over your tank unlike me then your probably not going to have as much trouble because there is already bolts in the holes keeping the nuts clean from debris. But if you don't have a skid plate then beg or borrow a tap off someone and run it through the threads to clean them up. I used what i had available, a plumbers brush for cleaning out caps and fittings when soldering together copper pipe, and some liquid wrench to get all the dirt and rust out. Then i ran a bolt in and out of each hole with some more liquid wrench until i had them clean enough to take the bolts.
Next is something they don't tell you in the instructions, the front passengers side bolt was a serious PITA. At least on my 03' KJ Sport with the 3.7L the exhaust goes across right under the head of that bolt and its a serious pain to do it. I finally managed after about 40 minutes to get it in with a combination of wrenches and a breaker bar, but if i could have pulled off the tire to give me a little more room to swing the wrench it would have taken maybe ten minutes, if i had a jack. Long story but i bought my KJ and the jack was missing, the only other jack i have is in the wife's car and she was gone, so yeah it was a reminder that i need to buy a jack for the KJ yet again. So just expect that bolt to possibly be a serious pain.
The wiring went super easy but the instructions for the 42475 wiring kit from etrailer made by Hopkins isn't correct. Yes its a powered converter, but it doesn't have a battery lead coming off it anymore, there is a ground wire that you have to attach to the body of the vehicle with the included self tapping screw, the power is drawn through the inline plug now taking its power from one of the wires in the vehicles harness. I haven't been able to find a pinout for that large plug back there that this goes inline with so i don't know for sure which circuit its pulling off of but i can tell you the red wire in the instructions now goes to the plug instead of off to the battery or other source.
The rubber plug in the floor on mine i couldn't get it pulled out of the grommet its in, and if i did what would seal up the hole? The instructions wasn't very clear on that. So i cut a slit across the rubber floor plug and passed the wiring through and then sealed it back up with some silicone. Shouldn't cause any problems.
The Draw-Tite from etrailers was backordered and out of stock, so i went with the Curt model instead. Plenty heavy duty, and just plain damn heavy lifting it up into place! Overall i am very pleased with the install though.
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Looks nearly OEM, except shinier....
kb0nly
Full Access Member
Looks nearly OEM, except shinier....
Yep, overall i am VERY pleased with the look of the Curt hitch, it doesn't stick out as far as the Draw-Tite and i was worried the spare might be in the way but there is plenty of room for hooking up.
Whats really cool is the wiring harness, one big plug to take apart and thats it, that was the easiest trailer harness i have put in yet, took like five minutes.
sleeve
Full Access Member
Nice work.
kb0nly
Full Access Member
Thanks..
tomjonesrocks
Full Access Member
Thanks for all that information--informative. Sounded like the wiring didn't work out as well as hoped...
kj924
Administrator
Here's a pic of my Hiddden Hitch.
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kb0nly
Full Access Member
Actually the wiring worked out fine and it works great, its just different than the installation instructions! You don't need to run a separate power wire, just plug it in and screw down that ground wire and your done.
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