What did you do to your jeep today?

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sota

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P2098 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean (Bank 2)

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either I have one hell of a tiny and consistent leak into the exhaust, or I have a possibly failing/failed sensor.
 

duderz7

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Added athe gm flippity flapper valve to the fuel filler hose because I'm of having gas spewing out. Haven't tested it yet. But I'm pretty confident.
 

Dave_too

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This should be a great thread that we can keep going. That way we can all keep up with the small day to day tinkering and give some ideas to those looking to do something! Pics are strongly encouraged!!! (Cheers)
Well, it was actually yesterday, but my third blower motor self-destructed. I don't know that it's something I did though.
 

sota

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so my witech emulator...
doesn't like the 2007 jeep liberty.
works on a 2004 sebring convertible, with the older SBEC2 computer.
 

CheddarGau

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Here a few pix of the soldered, shrink wrapped and loomed fix ... only took about an hour which also included brushing down the dirt from the top of the differential and surrounding area first, so it wouldn't fall in my eyes while working underneath and upside down. If I had actually PLANNED on doing this, instead of just spuriously doing it, then I would have pressure washed underneath the car the day before, and let it dry overnight, but my quick approach with a brush and air compressor mostly worked and I surprisingly didn't get any dirt in my eyes.

When I was cutting off the damaged portion, I deliberately left the OEM wiring longer then necessary, so that it hung down PAST the top of differential. That way it was easier to solder the aftermarket pigtail to it. I also offset the splice joints so that both wires would still fit into the wire loom even after shrink wrapping them. Then, after shrink wrapping and tucking the wires back into the OEM wire loom, I simply added an extra piece of loom to make up for the extra wire length. I also used secret electrical tape tricks in order to securely attach the end of the loom to the locking connector itself, rather then stopping short of it (like the OEM connector had). This should prevent the new wire from fatiguing again, while still allowing for the new connector's locking function to work properly.

Overall, I think the repair came out good.

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Good work. Try with a little less solder next time. I will keep the same strength, but will allow the wire in that spot to flex, and be less likely to become brittle and crack. We can't have ourselves working more than we need to:p
 

sota

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so the other night the right rear suddenly started making a death noise.
turns out the sole rivet still holding the backing plate on, let go.
parking brake shoes are destroyed.
I got the plate booger welded to the housing for now, so at least no more death howling.
I'm gonna need to replace those plates I guess.
anyone got a source that's NOT dorman and NOT the $300/pair split set?
I mean if I have to use them, I will.
 

KJowner

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The backplates are silly money here too, I was thinking about making a set out of steel plate, milling out the excess metal but I bought a complete axle with good ones cheaply, saved me a lot of work. Can't believe a cheap steel stamped sheet is so expensive.
 

sota

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well I got B2S1 O2 replaced.
old one was siezed and buggered up the threads, but I got the "replacement" installed regardless.
going to need to buy an O2 tap I guess, for future use.
scan tool is making happy graphs now, although I did briefly get a P0157 Code: Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 2) pending code once. hoping that's just electrical asshattery.

sadly I discovered something, and it's fatal for the future of this jeep.
the inside frame rail, right where the cat is, where it meets the body, has rotted completely through from the welded mount point or the transfer case crossmember, all the way forward to where it starts to pitch up. didn't get pictures this time, but it's bad.

I guess it's time to start hunting for another stick shift jeep.
 
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