What is the best oil/filter to use?

[LibertyTC]

Ya talk about unrest....The "rest" of us non 07 folks use 5W-30.
In summer, I would not want so thin an oil, when I know that the KJ is running even hotter!
Gosh why did they move to 5W-20 on a 2007, mpg, emissions, cleanliness? Different rings?

 

[tjkj2002]

Ya talk about unrest....The "rest" of us non 07 folks use 5W-30.
In summer, I would not want so thin an oil, when I know that the KJ is running even hotter!
Gosh why did they move to 5W-20 on a 2007, mpg, emissions, cleanliness? Different rings?

Federally mandated mpg standards.


Same reason for synthetic gear oil.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

My 09 WK has been just fine on 5W30.

 

[Birdman330]

Ya talk about unrest....The "rest" of us non 07 folks use 5W-30.
In summer, I would not want so thin an oil, when I know that the KJ is running even hotter!
Gosh why did they move to 5W-20 on a 2007, mpg, emissions, cleanliness? Different rings?

I actually switched to 5w-30

 

[Hockeygoon]

I actually switched to 5w-30

Depends on how tight your engine is. I don't think they tightened up the tolerences on the 3.7 or 4.7 when the switch was made from 5W30 to 5W20. If anything with the length of production at that point the internal tolerances were probably growing as the machinery producing the blocks, cylinders, cranks etc... began to wear. Its not like using the original specced weight of oil will make much of a difference - except for the .001 gas mileage.


My wife has a 2008 Kia Sedona that also calls for 5W20 and I religiously stick to that and semisynthetic oil and 3000 mile oil changes. It now has 160,000 miles and runs the same now as it did at 20K. With 5.5 quarts of oil its just a bit above the full line on the dipstick, at 3000 miles its exactly on the full line - same now as it was 7 years ago. That's still a very tight engine that I don't want to increase the oil clearance by using too heavy weight of oil.

 

[libertybob]

Mopar filter

Can't say I recommend the Mopar OEM filter. I put one on my newly acquired Liberty and had an oil leak that covered the transfer case and dripped on the drive way. I replace it with a Fram Extra Guard as it is was readily available and the leak went away. Clean transfer case now. It wasn't an installation problem. So if you use Mopar oil filters, watch carefully for leaks.

 

[M38 Bob]

As a old antiquated grease-monkey, I was always a proponent of "thicker is better". 10W40's, 15W40's, 20W50 after a little wear, etc. But being around customer cars all day every day, some horribly abused/neglected, others inanely over maintained, I've come to think the automotive engineers and tribiologists know a LOT more about lubricaton requirements than I, and perish the thought, most internet "oil experts".

If you use the weight and classification recommended in the owners manual, do changes even close to the recommended schedule, the engine will outlast most every other system on the car. Especially for yall in the rust belt.

Bob

 

[M38 Bob]

Compared to 15-20 years ago the worst oil out there is WONDERFUL!!

Bob

 

[Hockeygoon]

Compared to 15-20 years ago the worst oil out there is WONDERFUL!!

Bob

Agreed. Wal-Mart Supertech is a pretty good oil - keeps my 60 year old tractor running 8-15 hours a day with over 5000 hours on the current overhaul. In its case thicker is probably better 10W40 year around.

 

[LibertyTC]

My 09 WK has been just fine on 5W30.

I think HJ you are making a wise choice. Considering the heat generated by the engines, in theory 5W-30 should offer better lubrication/protection when hot.

Fed's mandating engine oil & recommending synthetic gear lube= eek.
In my diffs I will "stick" to dino gear lube Thanks!
I will continue to use my 5W-30 synthetic engine oil though.arty52:

 

[Hockeygoon]

I think HJ you are making a wise choice. Considering the heat generated by the engines, in theory 5W-30 should offer better lubrication/protection when hot.

Fed's mandating engine oil & recommending synthetic gear lube= eek.
In my diffs I will "stick" to dino gear lube Thanks!
I will continue to use my 5W-30 synthetic engine oil though.arty52:

They are not mandating the types of lubricants (yet). But they are demanding higher fleet fuel mileage and every tiny bit helps - like lower viscosity motor oils and lighter differential oil.


If high heat is a real concern I would use 10W30 in summer. 10W is "thinner" in the summer months than 5W is in the winter for cold start ups.

The lower the multiplier between the first and (10W) and the second (30) the less likely to break down due to heat and wear. The multiplier to go from 5 to 30 is 6, to go from 10 to 30 is 3. Basically a lot more additives need to be added to base 5 weight oil than base 10 weight to make it behave like 30 weight oil under operating temperatures. The more additives the more likely they are to break down under heat and wear. These additives shear back in high heat or during high shear force operation and break down causing some sludging. What's worse is once the additive begins to be depleted the motor oil no long resists thinning so now you have a thinner motor oil at 210 degrees. Because of this straight 30 weight oil is more stable and less prone to break down than even 10W30. But at start up straight 30 weight will be slow to lubricate internal parts.

 

[twowings]

Thanks to global warming (which, according to our esteemed and learned U.S. Senator James Inhofe "does NOT exist"! because "God" wouldn't "allow it" :emotions34 we have had extremely warm temps for most of the spring and summer so I switched to 10W-30 per the owner's manual when the temp range calls for it)...no problems so far and no extra consumption...getting ready to make a high-speed run to Colorado to give it a REAL test...:whip:

 

[Birdman330]

Depends on how tight your engine is. I don't think they tightened up the tolerences on the 3.7 or 4.7 when the switch was made from 5W30 to 5W20. If anything with the length of production at that point the internal tolerances were probably growing as the machinery producing the blocks, cylinders, cranks etc... began to wear. Its not like using the original specced weight of oil will make much of a difference - except for the .001 gas mileage.


My wife has a 2008 Kia Sedona that also calls for 5W20 and I religiously stick to that and semisynthetic oil and 3000 mile oil changes. It now has 160,000 miles and runs the same now as it did at 20K. With 5.5 quarts of oil its just a bit above the full line on the dipstick, at 3000 miles its exactly on the full line - same now as it was 7 years ago. That's still a very tight engine that I don't want to increase the oil clearance by using too heavy weight of oil.

I actually run 5.5 Qts of oil I have noticed a serious difference in adding that extra half Qt, and when I had originally gotten it and had been driving it. It did have about an extra half Qt of oil in it. I had run the last two changes at 5 Qt's and noticed the engine really did not care for that. So now back at 5.5 Qt's it runs much MUCH quieter and idles better.

 

[CactusJacked]

I actually run 5.5 Qts of oil I have noticed a serious difference in adding that extra half Qt, and when I had originally gotten it and had been driving it. It did have about an extra half Qt of oil in it. I had run the last two changes at 5 Qt's and noticed the engine really did not care for that. So now back at 5.5 Qt's it runs much MUCH quieter and idles better.

Then you must have oil return problems; clogged oil passages not allowing the oil to return to the pan fast enough, causing an oil pump starvation issue. Because a proper operating oiling system, at the recommended level, would have no effect one way or the other on how the engine runs.

 

[M38 Bob]

Then you must have oil return problems; clogged oil passages not allowing the oil to return to the pan fast enough, causing an oil pump starvation issue. Because a proper operating oiling system, at the recommended level, would have no effect one way or the other on how the engine runs.

Exactly.
Bob


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Birdman330]

Then you must have oil return problems; clogged oil passages not allowing the oil to return to the pan fast enough, causing an oil pump starvation issue. Because a proper operating oiling system, at the recommended level, would have no effect one way or the other on how the engine runs.

Tell me about it, when it gets 20 or colder it knocks when I fire up the engine until the oil gets fully circulating. I know I have an extremely small exhaust leak somewhere on the passenger side since it ticks from there when I fire the engine as well. I put in cleaning treatment with this oil change, and will with the next oil change as well.

 

[LibertyTC]

Nathan, What cleaner did you use?
I don't know if you can find this stuff, but it works very well to clean gunk out safely.
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I recently used a mixture of Marvell mystery oil and Wynn's Engine Tune (total 1 quart) in with my synthetic oil, and ran it for 1000 miles then changed it with new filter.
Ya it cleaned the gunk out, as the oil got fairly dark by then.
Wynn's with Marvell Mystery oil will lubricate & clean the oil pump/galleries, and I also ran two bottles of Chevron Techron Concentrate fuel cleaner in the fuel for a 250 highway mile drive.
Helps to clean back side of valves!
Jeep runs better now.:gr_grin:

 

[CactusJacked]

I put in cleaning treatment with this oil change, and will with the next oil change as well.

If you're not currently, run full synthetic oil. Some swear it's no different than conventional oil if you change it regularly. But trust me, synthetic does a much better job at cleaning out sludge; this is where the "synthetic oil caused my engine seals to start to leak" myth can originate. If you have baked on crud causing obstructions though, it may be beyond it fixing itself.

 

[Birdman330]

I only run full synthetic in my vehicles, I was able to finally get my hands on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synth, running 4.5 qts of that with a QT of Marvels Mystery Oil. So far things seem to be getting better slowly aside the A/C issue that I have. At about 150 before the up coming oil change I'm going to toss in some Sea Foam as well.

 

[profdlp]

...synthetic does a much better job at cleaning out sludge...

I had heard that, and judging by what I got out of my engine last week I believe it. The oil I drained was the first synthetic I had used in the two years I've owned the Jeep and was much blacker than I would have expected. The logical answer is that some of the accumulated crud which had been in there got removed by the synthetic, crud which might have remained behind had it been regular oil. I have no reason to believe that the engine is unusually cruddy, as it appears to have been well-maintained by the previous owner, but it's nice to think that it might actually be getting cleaner as it gets older and not dirtier.