When to torque bolts

[randymorris]

I’m prepping to do a semi large overhaul of suspension and steering, specifically replacing upper and lower control arms in the rear, sway bar links and bushings in front, steering rack bushings, coil isolators on both sides upfront, and spark plugs for good measure (I got some copper ones this time, as I didn’t know that’s what was needed when I did the spark plugs and ignition coils a while ago). Since I’ll be doing most of the work in my driveway (just removing the front shocks and coils to have them reassembled with mopar isolators by a shop), I want to make sure I do things right. I’m gonna service ball joints while I have everything apart as well. So I have several questions.

In both the front and back, what bolts do I not torque until it’s on the ground reassembled? I know the upper control arms up front, but I don’t know what others I should plan on torquing after I put it back together and get it off jack stands. Do I need to loosen the rear shocks when replacing the control arms, or are those fine to stay torqued on?

For spark plugs, what should the gap be set to? .040” is what I see going around, just want to double check so I get it right this time.

I had a buddy grease the ball joints when I replaced them while installing the OME lift. To service them and make sure they are still good, what should I look for, and should I clean out the old grease and fill it with new grease? If so, what’s the best way to go about that? Figure I might as well put some effort in keeping the ballpoints good while I’m disassembling everything anyways.

For the steering rack bushings, do I need to remove anything else, like the metal lines, to raise it enough to replace the two bushings? We replaced the whole rack last time, so I’m not sure how to just get the bushings.

 

[tommudd]

Front upper control arms, sway bar links etc with full weight on ground
rear lower control arms the same when on ground full weight
for spark plugs gap is shown right on radiator support , tells you which plugs and gap
no need to clean out old grease, unless you have been driving through water etc , just keep new pumped in every oil change, I do all of mine every 3-3500 miles

 

[randymorris]

Thanks Tom! I appreciate your help once again. I’m getting ready to put in the Iron Rock Off-road WJ rear upper, just generic lowers for now (blew my budget on the upper cause it’s in much worse shape), new bolts for the lower arms, and quite a few new bushings. When I have a friend over to make the job go faster I was also gonna pound down the pinch welds and try to bend out the bumper to get rid of the mild rubbing currently. If only I wasn’t in Phoenix, I could do it in a day, but I think I’m gonna stretch it over several weekends to keep from dying of heat stroke.

 

[randymorris]

Here’s hoping I can work on it this weekend. UPS delayed half my parts. So I have the rear upper, spark plugs, and lower arm bolts, but not the lower arms, sway bar links, or bushings.

 

[randymorris]

All my parts have finally arrived, so I can get to work this weekend. I’m gonna get a grease gun this weekend (assuming one of my friends will be able to help pick one up and deliver it to me) to put grease in the upper flex joint in the rear. Is there a style of grease gun that anyone has found to work best? I’ve found several different types. Also, does anyone recommend any particular grease?



My plan is to do the rear this weekend, replace my PCV (it broke on me, and when I put my original replacement one in and twisted it to lock, the plastic notch snapped off with almost no pressure, so I have a new one on the way again), drive it to work this week to see how it handles, and do the front next weekend with help. I can’t have help this weekend due to coronavirus quarantine (a coworker showed up with coronavirus symptoms and is getting tested today, so I’m anxiously awaiting her results), so the larger part of the job can wait to next week (sway bar bushings, sway bar links, steering rack bushings, removing my shocks to have them rebuilt with new isolators, and then a very thorough cleaning before getting it aligned the following week) and hopefully I don’t have to worry about getting sick in the mean time.


For the rear, I’ll tighten the rear lower arms under full weight. The rear I’ll torque up in the arm if I can, as that’ll make it much easier. Figure I should at least wait to torque the flex joint until it’s under full weight. I’m really looking forward to how this truck will drive afterward. Being stuck in a Honda Civic for the past couple months has made me miss my liberty terribly.

 

[tommudd]

Flex joint ??? If you are talking about the rear tri-link if you are running a stock one no way to grease it
also you can tighten it with hardly any weight or no weight on it since the way it mounts it will not make a difference

 

[randymorris]

I have the Iron Rock Off-road control arm with a mount for the axle. I couldn’t find a 4 link like the JBA bolt on one, and desperately needed a new upper arm, so I got the IRO arm to have something a little more heavy duty than stock, and I wasn’t gonna waste my time with a cheap aftermarket stock one.