Why are my inner tread scalloping after complete suspension refresh?

[oblivionnewtonjohn]

As this a secondary vehicle, it's a lower priority in my ever growing TODO list, but back on the task. The passenger side inner tire wear is worse as you can imagine.
At a crossroad if I want to invest more money at this point, I plan to go back through the entire suspension soon to see if I can identify the root cause.

Also, I forgot to change the steering rack bushings when I did the suspension, so a good time to do so.
Someone suggested the wheel bearing may be the culprit? I noticed that wheels seems to camber out and not straight up and down.

I'm definitely going with a different suspension shop, researching reviews now.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

My XJ did feather one of the tires once from a bad wheel bearing, worth checking for sure.

 

[oblivionnewtonjohn]

Grrr, just notice the centers of the rear tires are wearing quicker than outer and inner.
Taking it to new alignment shop tomorrow for inspection.

 

[J33Pfan]

IMO whether inner or out Tie rods it's all the same to the tire.
Is there wear in the rack or rack bushings?
Yet Doing a google search, it kinda sounds like a bad alignment.

 

[u2slow]

Grrr, just notice the centers of the rear tires are wearing quicker than outer and inner.
Taking it to new alignment shop tomorrow for inspection.

Sounds like you need to reduce air pressure in the rear... not an alignment issue.

 

[oblivionnewtonjohn]

IMO whether inner or out Tie rods it's all the same to the tire.
Is there wear in the rack or rack bushings?
Yet Doing a google search, it kinda sounds like a bad alignment.

I did not replace the inner tie rods, in hindsight, I should have along with the steering rack bushings. It was two summers ago, extremely hot and I had to cut loose almost everything I replaced as the bolts were frozen, surprisingly that was the only rust on the vehicle. So I overlooked a few things....

I feel confident this new shop can help me identify the root cause of all my woes as I'd really like to keep it on the road, quite fond of it overall.

 

[oblivionnewtonjohn]

Sounds like you need to reduce air pressure in the rear... not an alignment issue.

I run them 5lbs lower than max rating. I can guess all day, but until the new alignment shop confirms either way, I won't really know.
I may have installed something wrong, I recall being careful, using my FSM and torque specs, but may have missed something.

And/or alignment may be wrong or a defective part. I don't care who or what is to blame, I just want to solve and repair.
It's been a learning experience, one worth keeping the Jeep since I am so invested monetarily and time wise.

 

[u2slow]

There's no rear alignment issue on a rear solid axle that causes the tire center to wear faster. Its tire pressure. Lower it until the tire wears even. I run something close to door sticker tire pressure even though the tire is rated for 80psi.

Besides the steering components, check your LCA bushings. I noticed early on they have a tendency to 'walk' fore/aft a little. I shimmed them with large washers to limit that effect. Still running the original LCA bushings and steering links here.

If the new alignment shop finds its 'out', and the last shop said they made it right... there's a chance the cam bolts in the lower arms slipped/moved.

 

[oblivionnewtonjohn]

There's no rear alignment issue on a rear solid axle that causes the tire center to wear faster. Its tire pressure. Lower it until the tire wears even. I run something close to door sticker tire pressure even though the tire is rated for 80psi.

Besides the steering components, check your LCA bushings. I noticed early on they have a tendency to 'walk' fore/aft a little. I shimmed them with large washers to limit that effect. Still running the original LCA bushings and steering links here.

If the new alignment shop finds its 'out', and the last shop said they made it right... there's a chance the cam bolts in the lower arms slipped/moved.

Good feedback. I replaced rear arms, boomerang with Moog, new Bilstein shocks. So there's no chance one of the rear LCA could be defective and cause such? What you say makes sense, solid axle is up and down. I noticed the old decel wandering reappeared recently that was present before I replaced all the rear components, but since I replaced those, I attribute that to the steering rack bushings?

I replaced UCA's with Moog, lower ball joints, new bushings on the clevis/shock mounts. I thought about replacing the front UCA with JBA's, the LCA bushings and the rear with Super Pro once I know what's happened and causing my issues.

 

[u2slow]

Buying into a perceived quality brand is not necessarily a cure on its own.

If you have rapid wear, bind, or bad camber... aftermarket UCAs can help. You said you changed them with Moog. Check them again. If they're shot already, should maybe consider the upgrade.

The rear boomerang is a simple piece. It fails from rust normally. The joints themselves can wear out. Check the joints. If they're good they're good, if they have slop, or torn, they're finished. I had original bushings last years, and new Moog ones die in under 2 months. If the bushings collapse on one side only, there's a chance the axle isn't completely square in the vehicle anymore, and that could cause angled wear on the tires (inside of one, outside of the other).

HTH

 

[oblivionnewtonjohn]

Buying into a perceived quality brand is not necessarily a cure on its own.

If you have rapid wear, bind, or bad camber... aftermarket UCAs can help. You said you changed them with Moog. Check them again. If they're shot already, should maybe consider the upgrade.

The rear boomerang is a simple piece. It fails from rust normally. The joints themselves can wear out. Check the joints. If they're good they're good, if they have slop, or torn, they're finished. I had original bushings last years, and new Moog ones die in under 2 months. If the bushings collapse on one side only, there's a chance the axle isn't completely square in the vehicle anymore, and that could cause angled wear on the tires (inside of one, outside of the other).

HTH

I replaced the boomerang with all in one Moog piece that came with all new joints etc. I will have them check it all while on the lift and rack.
Thanks for the feedback.

 

[daves06lrenegade]

Scalloping can be caused by bad/loose wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and/or bad shocks/struts... The wheel/tire is wobbling from something...It might also be caused by changing alignment parts (lifting) causing the wheel to bounce...
Dave