yeah i dont mind the wait, also about 4 in the rear. Mine is my DD but hopefully the stock arm i have back there now will hold up long enough. Last i knew he was shipping mine out this week but things could have changed. I did a lot of measuring and it seems the IRO arm should be perfect size depending on how the bracket is set up. Im excited to try it out though
WJ Rear Lower Control Arms
- Thread starter dude1116
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yeah i dont mind the wait, also about 4 in the rear. Mine is my DD but hopefully the stock arm i have back there now will hold up long enough. Last i knew he was shipping mine out this week but things could have changed. I did a lot of measuring and it seems the IRO arm should be perfect size depending on how the bracket is set up. Im excited to try it out though
Hey Dude116,
Any update on this?
My first CRD is at 23.75 out back (4.25" as I understand) with dakota monroes, Cardhu's used 948's, 3 upper isos, and a 1/4" cutting board under the lower iso.
Put in KrisP's IRO arm on Sunday and IFC bracket. Lock nut is on the back side so it's as short as it can be. The arm is beefyand I really want it to work, but I'm vibing worse than the completely shot factory boomerang. Looks to me like the pinion is pointing to far up.
I'll crawl under it in the next few days and see if i can measure how far off it is. May also look at the lower arm bushings to make sure they aren't causing trouble.
Part of me wonders if a hack n tap and XJ front drive shaft might be the solution. My pinion is close to what's needed for a double cardan.
Hoping to get my DD running smooth. The wifes CRD is at 2.5" with the JBA bracket and a rusty tri link and it has only the tiniest vibe.
Any update on this?
My first CRD is at 23.75 out back (4.25" as I understand) with dakota monroes, Cardhu's used 948's, 3 upper isos, and a 1/4" cutting board under the lower iso.
Put in KrisP's IRO arm on Sunday and IFC bracket. Lock nut is on the back side so it's as short as it can be. The arm is beefyand I really want it to work, but I'm vibing worse than the completely shot factory boomerang. Looks to me like the pinion is pointing to far up.
I'll crawl under it in the next few days and see if i can measure how far off it is. May also look at the lower arm bushings to make sure they aren't causing trouble.
Part of me wonders if a hack n tap and XJ front drive shaft might be the solution. My pinion is close to what's needed for a double cardan.
Hoping to get my DD running smooth. The wifes CRD is at 2.5" with the JBA bracket and a rusty tri link and it has only the tiniest vibe.
dude1116
Full Access Member
You need to put the nut on the other side. I'm actually surprised you even got it to fit.
My idea with the adjustable LCAs is to only adjust a very VERY small amount so my axle isn't completely off center. If you use adjustable arms with the setup you have, you'll rip off your flares.
dude1116
Full Access Member
And to clarify, no I haven't tried it at the moment. I tend to do more modification to the Jeep in the summer so it may have to happen this season.
Kj/toy
Full Access Member
Nut on the engine side(that mounts to the center section), you say?
dude1116
Full Access Member
That's correct. And even with the nut there my pinion angle isn't quite where I want it.
dude1116
Full Access Member
Also to note - I'm getting mighty close to the price of the JBA bolt on 4 link with the bracket, arm, flex joints, and the possible LCAs.
My only complaint is that the 4 link apparently needs cutting to fit on anything with less than 4".
My only complaint is that the 4 link apparently needs cutting to fit on anything with less than 4".
How does one do that? Loosen the upper and lower control arms bolts and move the vehicle forwards and backwards a bit, then tighten?
dude1116
Full Access Member
No. He means to just flex it up and down. On the up swing things will be centered.
I do have the nut on the inside of the bracket. When I hooked it all up it seemed like the axle wasn't centered on the arm so I loosened the 21mm bolts got the bracket hooked up, then torqued the 21mm bolts. Then tightened the big a$$ lock nut.
dude1116
Full Access Member
Apologies. Read this while half sleeping this morning. You are right with the lock nut. You are in the same boat that I am.
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mikejeepstarternoob
Full Access Member
I didn't mean I'll really do anything lol. I meant his explanation makes sense. Sorry for the confusion.
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No problems... I was also unclear about what was meant. I think we're all on the same page now! lol.
That's what I was afraid of...
I still haven't checked my LCA bushings. Need to do that this weekend. It seems odd that the side to side alignment wasn't perfect when I bolted the arm and bracket together. I'm hoping horizontal misalignment is the main sourse of my vibes.
I'll also pull the washers out from behind the bracket. Never tried it without them.
Any progress on that revised bracket from IFC? A discount for those with his previous bracket design would be primo.
Last I guess is the u joints. Ill see if they l've ever been changed on carfax. 140,*** on the CRD today.
dude1116
Full Access Member
Mine was also slightly off side to side. Not sure if it was LCA bushing related but I did replace those with Moogs. Funny...Very hard to actively SEE LCA wear. The bushings looked solid but there was a huge difference between new and old. I had swaying when I would get on/off the gas on the highway after I put in the new arm (good bushings on top, bad on bottom made it more obvious).
I haven't talked too much about it to IFC. He wants to send me a new one to replace mine but I told him I just don't have the time nowadays. I said maybe in the spring I'll take him up on his offer.
This won't help pinion angle...But did you need to put washers between the axle housing and the bracket to get it to fit right? I had to put washers behind the top two bolt holes. He called me and told me that I actually should use 3 because of the slight indentation on the bottom bolt hole. I didn't find that necessary for good fitment. At the same time...Mine was one of the original brackets so I had to expand the bolt holes downward quite a bit. I might not have had to do that if I used washers between the bracket and axle housing. At the time drilling seemed like the only option. Took a long time. The bracket is absolutely solid.
Got a chance to play under the jeep. Sitting 24" center hub to flare at the back end. So, right about 4.5" . Checked LCA's. They were ok. My thrust angle was in speck. removed washers, bracket fit well without them. Checked drive shaft. Rear u joint definitely had some play. If the pinion was close I'd have been on rock auto immediately.
However my pinion angle is still to high. Supposed to be 0-3 degrees negative and I'm 4 degrees positive. Better than it was with washers for the last week but still vibing.
Saw this: 242HD Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit - Iron Rock Off Road
Still thinking SYE and double cardan may be the way to go. The iro bracket can tip the pinion up a lot but not much down.
I'm not sure the adjustable LCA's from IRO can get me the 4-7 degrees I'd need to use the stock shaft.
However my pinion angle is still to high. Supposed to be 0-3 degrees negative and I'm 4 degrees positive. Better than it was with washers for the last week but still vibing.
Saw this: 242HD Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit - Iron Rock Off Road
Still thinking SYE and double cardan may be the way to go. The iro bracket can tip the pinion up a lot but not much down.
I'm not sure the adjustable LCA's from IRO can get me the 4-7 degrees I'd need to use the stock shaft.
