2.5 inch kj lift

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Redbone

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I'm thinking about going with the Daystar 2.5" lift. They I can use stock shocks. Sound like a good setup to you guys??
 

tommudd

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I'm thinking about going with the Daystar 2.5" lift. They I can use stock shocks. Sound like a good setup to you guys??
can't use stock shocks
need at least the rear since the stockers will top out , so same length as we all use is needed
also you really should upgrade the fronts as well, if you have over 30-35,000 miles they are due for replacement as well and you'll have it apart anyways
The Daystar is going to put more stress on the springs and shocks so if you don't replace them now you will have to shortly
and then of course you're only maybe 160-200 from doing a full spring lift
many have tried to go with out the above and had problems
The ONLY way to really use a Daystar is with a brand new vehicle two days old, then of course still need longer shocks
 

Redbone

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The Daystar is going to put more stress on the springs and shocks so if you don't replace them now you will have to shortly

Actually I read through this thread and posted that kinda tongue in cheek. I was considering that lift kit until I checked it out here. I must admit, though, I'm still trying to comprehend the "stress" thing. I'm accepting your experience. I'm just trying to understand the mechanics. I suppose I should just pull off a wheel and study it a while. Thanks.
 

tommudd

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I'm not a teacher and if you were here I could show you better but
springs as soon as they are installed start to sag, its just the way it is. So you take a spring with say 50,000 miles on it, its already sagged 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch most generally. Now you take that spring that was taking up a say 10 inch spot, you compress it more ( by installing the Daystar) which now that spring is pressed down into a 7 inch spot. Its already started to sag and now being in a more compressed situation it speeds up the process.
Think of it as you KJ weighs say 4800 lb, it does fine but load it down and its weighing now 7000 lb, springs are closer to stacking which causes them to sag quicker
Now after reading this I'm not sure if any one can make heads or tails but trying to explain it in simple terms.:shrug: I am sure someone will come on and say well if X equals Y at noon and P equals S at six then you just need to buy new springs:happy175:
 

HoosierJeeper

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Personally, I'd only go for OME/ BIlstein, it's about $700 all said and done, but the ride is unbelievable, plus it'll last longer. JMO.
 

Redbone

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Aiight. Thx. Now I gotta go pull a wheel n look a while. :disgust: Might take a while since its cold. Mebbe I'll warm up enough by August.:happy175:
 

Redbone

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Think of it as you KJ weighs say 4800 lb, it does fine but load it down and its weighing now 7000 lb, springs are closer to stacking which causes them to sag quicker

O.K. I got a chance to study the IFS. If I'm reading you right and understand what I saw, the limited space/movement of the suspension causes the springs to compress when spacers are added.

I've done extensive work on suspensions but none on IFS are IRS. Adding spacers to top, bottom, axle flips, etc. cause a straight forward change in the ride height. This IFS thing is causing confusion within the 2 wrinkles on my pea brain.
 

tommudd

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What about the Skyjacker Coilover Kit?

very weak coils, same as stock rating anymore since they went soft ride. Not worth buying.
OME or BDS is about it. Well if you want anything to last

And TBJ,
If everyone bought an FJ Cruiser what fun would it be ? :shrug::happy175::happy175::happy175:
 

UltraV

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Hate to beat a dead horse maybe.... But I'm trying to wrap my brain around how adding a spacer to the top of a strut causes more spring compression. You are not adding a spacer inside the strut causing less space due to the limitations of the damper piston rod itself. In my eyes and mind, all you are doing is relocating the strut downwards by 2.5 or 3". If you are still using the stock strut and spring I'm not grasping how this changes any geometry inside the strut, just outside.

Now, I'm not beating my drum for one camp or the other, just trying to understand the reality of it.
 
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j-rod

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Hate to beat a dead horse maybe.... But I'm trying to wrap my brain around how adding a spacer to the top of a strut causes more spring compression. You are not adding a spacer inside the strut causing less space due to the limitations of the damper piston rod itself. In my eyes and mind, all you are doing is relocating the strut downwards by 2.5 or 3". If you are still using the stock strut and spring I'm not grasping how this changes any geometry inside the strut, just outside.

Now, I'm not beating my drum for one camp or the other, just trying to understand the reality of it.

i guess because the spacer is on the bottom of the spring....

http://www.daystarweb.com/attachments/instructions/kj/p10527.pdf

http://www.daystarweb.com/attachments/instructions/kj/p10537.pdf

Im still wanting one anyways....:smokin:
 

UltraV

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In the case of the daystars yes.... But I'm talking about say RRO's spacers. They go on top of the existing strut mount between it and the strut tower.
 

Redbone

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Hate to beat a dead horse maybe.... But I'm trying to wrap my brain around how adding a spacer to the top of a strut causes more spring compression.

I thought the same thing but didn't want to come across as arguementative.
 
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yosemite.kj

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Hate to beat a dead horse maybe.... But I'm trying to wrap my brain around how adding a spacer to the top of a strut causes more spring compression. You are not adding a spacer inside the strut causing less space due to the limitations of the damper piston rod itself. In my eyes and mind, all you are doing is relocating the strut downwards by 2.5 or 3". If you are still using the stock strut and spring I'm not grasping how this changes any geometry inside the strut, just outside.

Now, I'm not beating my drum for one camp or the other, just trying to understand the reality of it.

I know this an old post, but you are absolutely right. The only way to lift the front end without over compressing the spring is to add shims/spacers on top or a clevis lift/longer clevis to the bottom of the strut. Effectively making the strut longer. This is the case with stock springs or Old Man Emu. Hope this helps.

2007 with 93,000:
1/2 in. clevis lift w/one pair of extra rear iso's. (A $25 lift)
245/70R16 Hankook DynaPro A/T tires
Other Stuff
 
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2004Renegade

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OME 927 springs-front
Rancho RSX 17505 struts-front
OME 948 springs- rear
Rancho RSX 17004 shocks- rear

from my understanding, this combo only gives you 1.5 inches of lift, correct?

Any idea where i can find the Rancho Struts nowadays? or could someone possibly refer me to another product that serves the same purpose please, because the OME springs are still on JBA but i can't find the struts anywhere...
 

tommudd

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Any idea where i can find the Rancho Struts nowadays? or could someone possibly refer me to another product that serves the same purpose please, because the OME springs are still on JBA but i can't find the struts anywhere...

Use OME or Bilstein front shocks either are good
The Rancho RSX line we used to use was done away with
 

tommudd

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Hate to beat a dead horse maybe.... But I'm trying to wrap my brain around how adding a spacer to the top of a strut causes more spring compression. You are not adding a spacer inside the strut causing less space due to the limitations of the damper piston rod itself. In my eyes and mind, all you are doing is relocating the strut downwards by 2.5 or 3". If you are still using the stock strut and spring I'm not grasping how this changes any geometry inside the strut, just outside.

Now, I'm not beating my drum for one camp or the other, just trying to understand the reality of it.
One of the things is most use worn out springs so right away you're fighting a loosing battle
 

2003renegade

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does anyone know the actual strut part number for the bilsteins? i just blew my rsx and needs replacing stat! any other comparable brand will do too! thanks in advance!
 

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