3.7 oil crud probelm

[Conundrum2006]

That's really damn clean. I'd pull yours and pop that sucker in there.

Then tear down yours and see what's going on.

Definitely want to tear the old one down to find COD.
That oil drain pan look like i was panning for gold!

I'm goign to go over the swap parts need to have them lined, most of it is swapping over the correct part from old to new. I got a new oil pan and gasket already

Against what I'd normally do I was going to skip rear main seal and crank seal. looks immaculate.

Wonder if the sensors are the same?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

That's a beautiful looking engine. My swap looked very similar - started up immediately and has run beautifully ever since.

Not sure what sensors you're wondering about unless the crank and cam sensors. The answer is, Yes, they will be fine. The computer is expecting the same signal from the new engine as your old ones were sending.

Depending on your engine you'll probably need to swap the manifolds (especially since the yard buggered up the exhaust manifolds on the new one) and the accessories. Look for an EGR on your old engine or a blocking plate. Transfer whatever is on yours to the new unless it has the same system.

That oil looks horrible! I can't imagine what in the world would disintegrate like that unless someone poured some crap in the oil filler. Sorry for your grief...

Bob

 

[Conundrum2006]

That's a beautiful looking engine. My swap looked very similar - started up immediately and has run beautifully ever since.

Not sure what sensors you're wondering about unless the crank and cam sensors. The answer is, Yes, they will be fine. The computer is expecting the same signal from the new engine as your old ones were sending.

Depending on your engine you'll probably need to swap the manifolds (especially since the yard buggered up the exhaust manifolds on the new one) and the accessories. Look for an EGR on your old engine or a blocking plate. Transfer whatever is on yours to the new unless it has the same system.

That oil looks horrible! I can't imagine what in the world would disintegrate like that unless someone poured some crap in the oil filler. Sorry for your grief...

Bob

I see the egr on the new motor. Looking over it got almost a complete 2012 wiring harness (think the plug to the starter was cut everything else intact).
It has the flywheel (has to be swapped) and all the other normal accessories, naturally minus the starer, compressor, alt, ps pump.


Re: sensors, trying to figure out which ones need to be changed, so far I think the temperature sensor is different.
Injectors and fuel rail should be the same.
Hoping the timing cover is the same, hollander (used parts) shows 2002 -2012, another reference says it has to be swapped.
Everything looks so good I don't want to pull anything that has a good seal if it can be avoided.

Throttle body, intake manifold, ignition coils have to be swapped.

PS If somebody needs somthing of the 2012 parts i don't need they are welcome to it.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I see the egr on the new motor. Looking over it got almost a complete 2012 wiring harness (think the plug to the starter was cut everything else intact).
It has the flywheel (has to be swapped) and all the other normal accessories, naturally minus the starer, compressor, alt, ps pump.


Re: sensors, trying to figure out which ones need to be changed, so far I think the temperature sensor is different.
Injectors and fuel rail should be the same.
Hoping the timing cover is the same, hollander (used parts) shows 2002 -2012, another reference says it has to be swapped.
Everything looks so good I don't want to pull anything that has a good seal if it can be avoided.

Throttle body, intake manifold, ignition coils have to be swapped.

PS If somebody needs somthing of the 2012 parts i don't need they are welcome to it.

The timing cover should be the same - they haven't been changed since the 2002 model year.

Yea, temp sensor may be different. Easy swap though. I'm surprised the ignition coils are different...? As with the temp sensor that's an easy swap too. They have to come off when you change out the intake manifold anyway.

Like everyone else I'm curious to find out what grenaded in your original engine :emotions34:


Bob

 

[Conundrum2006]

Yea, temp sensor may be different. Easy swap though. I'm surprised the ignition coils are different...?


Bob

On my engine it's one coil each cylinder. On the 2012 it's one side coils and a lead from those going to the opposite side.

Maybe January before I can get enough time to swap it out. If the weather cooperates. I plan on getting the new motor pretty much ready to go, admittedly it's not much to do at this point

 

[flair1111]

That motor looks great! We have not had ours even a thousand miles yet.
Pulled the passenger side cover just enough to see inside.
Surprisingly the seal was in good shape so it was reused.
Here is what it look like. honesty it is not near as bad as I thought it would be.

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This is the crud being pumped into the oil filter.

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yep not looking to good but ive seen worse. if you get it to running id switch to full syn. mobile one has always been in mine after the first 5000 miles i had it new. mine is clean and always change oil and filter at 5000k.

 

[twowings]

Baited breath!

Bob

Don't those minnows get tiresome after awhile? :gr_grin:

The expression is "bated breath" as in abated, or stopped....

 

[M38 Bob]

Yes, Papa!

Bob

 

[CactusJacked]

The expression is "bated breath" as in abated, or stopped....

But you're assuming that's what he meant. He could have just finished eating a hand full of worms for all you know. :happy175:

 

[M38 Bob]

But you're assuming that's what he meant. He could have just finished eating a hand full of worms for all you know. :happy175:

Well, it did smell a lot like shrimp. :gr_grin:

Bob

 

[Conundrum2006]

yep not looking to good but ive seen worse. if you get it to running id switch to full syn. mobile one has always been in mine after the first 5000 miles i had it new. mine is clean and always change oil and filter at 5000k.

Yeah Pretty much what I thought I could do but after the flushes there is still a lot of crud and it's still trying to clog the filters. I've seen worse motors come back which makes me think it has to be something else going wrong, Head gasket, or another kind of contamination.


All the advice I got here was sound, i think in normal circumstances it would have it on the road to recovery, at least back on the road.. I'm just going to take that motor apart until I find out why and what caused it.

 

[Conundrum2006]

I'm gathering the parts needed before the swap. What is the wisdom on waterpumps? To get the warranty I need to put a new pump in. Mopar is pretty expensive but the aftermarket pumps seem to be made in china.

Oh one other thing, I had forgotten about it because of all the worry with the oil flow but when I ran it during the flush and it finally got to operating temp there is a weird sound. I'd describe it as like intermittent heat shield rattle at idle (heat shields are perfectly tight), goes away with a rev and comes back at idle. Don't notice it when cold, not sure about when it's been on the road for awhile.
Replaced the idler pulleys with no change.
I was told it could be the catalytic converters starting to go so wasn't too worried about it. Does that sound right? or is it something else with the motor?

 

[Hockeygoon]

Most likely the MOPAR water pump is made in China too. Somewhere on here I've seen posts of people that have found a replacement pump with a metal impellor instead of the cheap plastic impellor on the MOPAR.

 

[uss2defiant]

i think NAPA WP is recommended here.
If i remember correctly it is lifetime warranty.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Pump-New/_/R-TFW43263_0258174626

 

[M38 Bob]

Rattle does sound like loose catalytic converter plug. You can tap on it, engine off, with a rubber mallet, hammer handle butt, etc, and usually hear rattle. If bad, definitely needs replaced at engine replacement to avoid backpressure issues with new engine.

Bob

 

[Conundrum2006]

i think NAPA WP is recommended here.
If i remember correctly it is lifetime warranty.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Thanks, I'm ordering one.

I know GMB used to be a good name, the 7M supra guys always recommended them. A few reviews for the 3.7 WP seem like the quality slipped.

 

[uss2defiant]

just fyi the impeller is plastic like OEM on the NAPA one.
I don't remember which manufacturer but one has a metal impeller.

My new WP and clutch fan are both from napa.

 

[Conundrum2006]

just fyi the impeller is plastic like OEM on the NAPA one.
I don't remember which manufacturer but one has a metal impeller.

My new WP and clutch fan are both from napa.

GMB and the AC Delco have the metal impeller according to reviews (probably a lot of others). But they are also made in china and some of those seem to have bearings go out early.

 

[Conundrum2006]

Hum. Doing some research on WPs .Supposedly Gates, Napa Tru Flow and Mopar are the same at according to another Mopar enthusiast site. They compared a new Mopar to Napa and it was the same. It seems common knowledge that napa tru flow is by gates or at least was. They might also be Auto Zone Brand new with life time warranty as well.


Already got the Napa one on pick up order so that they way I'm going. Thought maybe this might help somebody else.

 

[ltd02]

Looks like the Cardone select on Rock Auto (might have) has a metal Impeller too.

Link: Product Detail

Edit: Disclaimer states images may not be actual!!!