3.7 oil crud probelm

[Conundrum2006]

Looks like the Cardone select on Rock Auto (might have) has a metal Impeller too.

Link: Product Detail

Edit: Disclaimer states images may not be actual!!!

Thanks. I'm not sure which is better, I'd prefer the metal impeller but I went with the plastic impeller, it was pretty close to factory I could see a few differences, still it was close. I'm going to save the OEM just in case.

 

[Conundrum2006]

A few more questions: I think these are knock sensors located under the intake plenum, anyone know if there what the interchange on them is? If they are knock sensors I think they are the same to 2012.

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Other big question is where are you supposed to life these motors at, I assume using the intake bolts on the heads/intake. The lift plat I have is nowhere close and those bolt look so dainty. Besides Mopar is there a plate that fits these vehicles or better way?


Here is the EGR opening, it kind of looks like I should put a plate over it but I haven't looked at the 2006 commander set up.

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[Conundrum2006]

So in case anybody is wondering. The EGR is ported so it goes to the Exhaust manifold. I believe it was mx3_ryder who said he did not bother with a block-off plate. Basically any pre EGR exhaust manifold automatically blocks off the EGR port.
The early non EGR part is stamped 3595AA. (sample pictures from ebay)

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The later EGR Manifold 3695AB is stamped

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So anybody wanting to swap out in to earlier vehicle shouldn't worry about EGR because as long as you have the non EGR style manifold you should be fine.

A lot of interchanges have it wrong, at least the used parts do. Hopefully nobody replaced my manifold that'd make it a little simpler.

It seems like liberty 05-12 will be the same manifold except for the left side where EGR and Non-eGR come into play.

 

[mx3_ryder]

Correct, you don't need a block off plate cause you're reusing your original exhaust manifolds and intake manifold. I personally didn't want to attach the engine hoist to the intake bolt holes on my new engine as some have cause I found out the hard way how fragile those intake ports really are on my original engine. :favorites68: I opted to run the chain down near the motor mounts on each side where there should be couple of larger unoccupied holes to run a bolt in. Good luck!!

 

[Conundrum2006]

Ugh. Had 5 minutes of hope. Took the commander on a spin before parking it by the garage to pull the motor. Ran very good honestly. Got about 4 miles with no problems, decided there was one last test, to push the rpms up to driving speed 45-50mph not the slow 25mph crawl. Did fine until the last turn to our street when the oil pressure warning chimed, so the motor comes out. I wouldn't be surprised if it's just a pan drop and cleaning it needs to be a good motor again. My fear is it may have a hidden head gasket problem and/or oil pump as well. But that's for the autopsy to determine.

 

[Conundrum2006]

What is this orange outlet on the new motor, looks like PCV to me, should I leave it and convert to the newer oil filler?

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[ltd02]

What is this orange outlet on the new motor, looks like PCV to me, should I leave it and convert to the newer oil filler?

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Yes. arty52:

 

[Conundrum2006]

FYI here are a few pics of the engine after all the flushing. You can see where the oil flow was the strongest. The oil filler had a ton of crud and gunk. Didn't take a picture of it. Seeing this makes me believe they had to have the jeep on a once a year oil change, the records I can see in car fax are very recent.


Passenger side cylinder head, had to get the old valve cover off to clean it for the new motor. Real PITA to get this cover out even with most of the accessories out of the way. (fun fact to get the intake out the motor has to be dropped to the frame so the body is out of the way, BTW not in the shop manual)

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[Conundrum2006]

Yes. arty52:

Cool. Is that all I have to do? Use my for lack of better word PCV hoses and the new 2012 skinny oil filler?

 

[ltd02]

Cool. Is that all I have to do? Use my for lack of better word PCV hoses and the new 2012 skinny oil filler?

The oil fill tube without the PCV point are probably the same from late 07 to 12. The connection from the PCV to the intake will need to be made and breather(s) connected. May have to check out the TSB to see a potential route for yours:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/upgrade-your-pcv-system-tsb-25-001-08-a-59416/

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/case-missing-pcv-valve-57735/#post653296

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/what-did-you-do-your-jeep-today-50782/index923.html#post676679

 

[Conundrum2006]

About the oil pan, since the motors gaskets are in such good shape and these oil pan gaskets are normally reusable. Is it ok to pull the liberty pan and swap in the Commander pan without changing gasket? I've tired a few searches but didn't find what I needed.

I'm also considering using the liberty pan and not touching it at all if the drain plug being at the back instead of the side doesn't cause a problem. I know I've read about someone doing the same thing and leaving the newer pan just can't remember where. Sorry been a long day.

 

[mx3_ryder]

I would put on a new oil pan gasket to avoid problems down the road. Using the Liberty oil pan is fine as long as the drain plug doesn't pose any problems. I used a Dakota pan on my engine and have no issues with draining the oil. You will need to purchase oil filters for the 2012 though when doing oil changes as they take a different filter then your 06 engine does. Don't forget this when they ask you at the parts store what year your vehicle is to avoid a second trip like I did the first oil change after my swap.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I think it was for 08 that the threads for the oil filter got switched to metric and that's the main difference. My 09 3.7 WK takes a different filter than the KJ. So yeah just get what the book says.

 

[Conundrum2006]

I would put on a new oil pan gasket to avoid problems down the road. Using the Liberty oil pan is fine as long as the drain plug doesn't pose any problems. I used a Dakota pan on my engine and have no issues with draining the oil. You will need to purchase oil filters for the 2012 though when doing oil changes as they take a different filter then your 06 engine does. Don't forget this when they ask you at the parts store what year your vehicle is to avoid a second trip like I did the first oil change after my swap.

Yeah it was your write up I was thinking of. Too tired last night to think straight. Read so may things online I couldn't remember where it was.

Ultimately I have to swap the oil pan because the oil drain at the back would hit the crossmember and catalytic converter.
Almost no room there any way, can't imagine how crammed in a 4.7 or 5.7 would be. Everything is hard to get at the front drive shaft has to be pulled to get to the starter and exhaust manifold bolts. (edit: You can tell when Jeep puts in motor in it's assembled on the subframe then put up and not the other way round)

So going to do the gasket too, I already have one (and a new pan) from when I was just going to drop the pan. The Shop Manual says the seals are reusable but real world can be another story. And somebody said a 4.7 on stand was a PITA thought it was worth checking.

I think it was for 08 that the threads for the oil filter got switched to metric and that's the main difference. My 09 3.7 WK takes a different filter than the KJ. So yeah just get what the book says.

Glad you all said something I had no clue they changed! The filter looks the same so I didn't give it a second glance. Atleast the weird oil splash guard is not on the new motor, IMO that made it harder to put the filter back on.

 

[Conundrum2006]

The oil fill tube without the PCV point are probably the same from late 07 to 12. The connection from the PCV to the intake will need to be made and breather(s) connected. May have to check out the TSB to see a potential route for yours:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/upgrade-your-pcv-system-tsb-25-001-08-a-59416/

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/case-missing-pcv-valve-57735/#post653296

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/what-did-you-do-your-jeep-today-50782/index923.html#post676679

Thank you!! Looks like the 06 Commander uses the same set up as Liberty. I have the tubing for both set ups should be an easy swap.

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[Conundrum2006]

Ok looks like Knock sensors are different.

mopar #4606093AF 2007-2012 liberty , 07-10 commander

Mopar #56041679AC 2005-06 Liberty, 06 Commander.

I'll swap them around when the intake is finally out of the way. A after marker supplier had the years wrong.

got the new oilpan and gasket in place, it was the right call (and good advice)to replace the gasket as well, the pan was adhered to the gasket just by pressure of the bolts it was a bit of a pain to knock loose (it was hanging from the engine hoist). in theory as the shop manual says it is reusable but it's not a really good idea.

Those of you who can pull a pan on the vehicle you are my hero.

For those who are going to pull a pan it's the bolts then a bit of persuasion to separate the pan from the gasket, the gasket is held to the bottom of the engine by the two nuts near the center holding the oil pickup tube and one bolt near the front of the motor holding the pick up tube to the oil pump, sort of hard to see the last one.
Anyway those three bolts mean the gasket has to separate from the pan, after that instillation is rather simple. far easier than the last gm motor I did.

We'll see how the weather cooperates for the rest of this week.

 

[Conundrum2006]

The exhaust bolts on the down pipes were the biggest PITA. The locking nut didn't lock 3 out of 4.
Pulled both fender wells and on the driver side I was able to use locking pliers and wrenches to get this side lose. Passengers side is a nightmare, ac lines and heater hoses going to the back of the vehicle are in the way. Ended up removing the bolts for the exhaust manifold on passengers side. If it were the drivers side I doubt it would be possible to get those bolts out.

It was good to pull the fender wells, there were a few wires at the back of the driver side cylinder head that just had to be popped lose easier access though the fenders.

Two quick questions.
Do the newer style exhaust nuts work better than old ones? A picture is attached, newer style is left.

In theory the old motor should be ready to lift out. I was going to use my jack to lift the transmission up a little. I didn't remove any of the crossbeam supports for the trans. or the front drive shaft. No idea why they say to remove it, the starter and other bolts are accessible with it in place. The exhausts and catalytic converters are more or less in place as well

Is there a good spot to lift the transmission at? I would normally lift at the bell housing but it's block by a catalytic converter and crossbeam. It looks a little tricky is why I'm asking. BTW its that Mercedes transmission if it makes a difference.


thanks again

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I'm not able to picture which exhaust bolts you're talking about. They aren't on the manifolds are they? Are they the ones that hold the cats to the Y-pipe? On my '03 the cats connect to the Y-pipe with spring bolts - I removed those then just lifted the engine out of the bay with the cats connected. Took the exhaust manifolds and cats off the old engine as a unit and bolted them to the new engine as a unit. Then dropped the engine back in with the cats in place. I think you have the newer style cats so may not be able to do that.

As for the ******... I blocked mine up on the pan with a couple of 2X6's and jack stands. I might have loosened the ****** mount at the crossmember but I for sure didn't remove the crossmember. Removed the bell housing bolts and just left the trans where it was.

Bob

 

[Leeann]

Cats to y-pipe. My '05 has the ones on the left. After 9 years in Michigan salt, most fell apart when I was removing mine to replace my transmission.

I got new ones from the local stealer for not a lotta cash and they're working well.

 

[Conundrum2006]

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Here is the pic of the exhaust nuts the the manifold to the downpipes/ cats.
The one on the left look like a spring clip and nut, they came with the 2012 motor, I have 3 of them.

The one to the right is a welded tab to the nut. these were on the vehicle only one worked like it was supposed to. Don't know if they are Jeep or not because the last one that wouldn't come lose was another size nut. The exhaust looks recently done(last few years)

If the ones from the 2012 spring clip/nut work well I'll use them.