Actual Lift Amount - Lets Compare Fender Heights

[streetglideok]

I could see that much easily. I'm running no ISO in the rear with Ironman springs, and came out 22". The front, I was at 20" or so with just Ironman. Now over the weekend, I made some changes, and added the JBA top plate, and clevis lift, and was at 22.5 before I aligned. OME front springs tend to give a little more lift from what I have seen. I'm going to have to put JBA arms in next, before my tires wear too much.

 

[DaleKJ]

I guess you have no CV joint issues at 22.5"? Thanks

 

[tommudd]

Thanks for your input, Tom! The top plate was 3/8" and not 1/2". Yes, I did install the JBA 0.500" Clevis lift. I torqued the JBA Upper A-Arms while they were hanging down instead of with the weight of the Jeep on them. Is this holding up the front some? Should I release them and re-torque with the weight on them? I'm sitting at 23" center hub to fender flare which is over 5" of lift from where I started. I wasn't expecting that! I don't see how I would get that much unless the A-Arms are holding it up some. I pulled the Jeep out of the garage and turned it around so I can do the rear tomorrow. The CV joints weren't happy. Of course, I looked like a low rider in the rear so I had more weight in the rear and less in the front. I don't want to have to shave my CV joints so I may need to take the clevis spacer out. Do you think that if I loosen and re-torque the JBA Upper A-Arms now that I'm setting on the tires, and after I lift the rear so that some of the weight will shift to the front, that my CV joints will be okay. I wanted to lift as much as possible but keep the CV joints happy.
I was planning on putting 1 extra iso on top and 1 extra iso on bottom for a total of 4 with the new springs and 2 hockey puck bump stops. This is what I have purchased. I ordered the 2 bottom isos from JBA, I might can get a refund or just replace the stock bottom ones. Will this setup work? If not, I'll need to get another set of upper isos ASAP.
One last question. If my CV joints are making just a little noise, will it hurt to drive it while it settles some or will it tear them up?
I'm thinking loosen and re-torque A-Arms, do my rear lift to shift the weight forward and then drive. If CV joints aren't happy, take out clevis lift before I screw up my CV joints. By the way, what size conduit nuts are people referring to? How many equal 1/4" in case I want a little but not the 1/2".
I appreciate your advice, expertise and input.
Thanks,
Dale

Yes loosen and then bounce the front some and then retighten them.
The lower iso's will work but not as well as uppers.
If the top plate in front is 3/8 of an inch plus 1/2 inch clevis you have way too much in there. We do 3/8 inch clevis and 1/4 inch top plate so that alone is giving you 3/4 of an inch or more than we normally do. So yes you are going to have issues with the CVs.
First loosen the UCAs and get them where they should be, then after doing the rear see where you are but I'd say you'll be over 4 inches so you'll have UCA/ spring contact

On the conduit nuts we do 3 per side , they are 1/8 inch thick so you have 3/8 of an inch which gives you 3/4 inch of lift ( with your spacer its giving you an inch )

REREADING ................
I see you are at 23, so with redoing the UCAs and then after alignment you'll be in the 22.25-22.50 range is my best guess. So 3.25-3.50 inches of true lift over new stock. Best thing is what I stated above on the UCAs , do the rear and then see where you are after a short drive

 

[tommudd]

I guess you have no CV joint issues at 22.5"? Thanks

No issues at 22.5 , you can go more than that but what gets everyone no matter if you are two or four wheel drive is upper control arm/ spring contact. It occurs at 22.75-23 inches anymore and you have lots of noise on every bump. Trust me been there :icon_biggrin:
Now with the coilover setup, they are smaller diameter so can go more like mine is now at 23.50 ( 4.5 inches of lift )

 

[DaleKJ]

Thanks, Tom! Will do. Learning as I go but I think the end result will be great. Hope to finish it all up tomorrow. Take care.

 

[tommudd]

Thanks, Tom! Will do. Learning as I go but I think the end result will be great. Hope to finish it all up tomorrow. Take care.

Added some on my first post , good luck
All have to get the IFS Learning Curve sometime
I'm still learning after 30 plus lifts and redoing mine every other month for 8 years :signs1:

 

[streetglideok]

No issues at 22.5 , you can go more than that but what gets everyone no matter if you are two or four wheel drive is upper control arm/ spring contact. It occurs at 22.75-23 inches anymore and you have lots of noise on every bump. Trust me been there :icon_biggrin:
Now with the coilover setup, they are smaller diameter so can go more like mine is now at 23.50 ( 4.5 inches of lift )

I didn't feel anything in my cv shafts turning them by hand with the wheels hanging in full extension, however just as Tom said, I have spring to control arm contact. Normal driving, it's not an issue, but it will be in the future when the trails start to reopen. I'll be adding JBA arms in the future. If budget allows, DTT diffs, a backbone, and a winch next year.

 

[tommudd]

Should of said at 23 or a little less on some, you'll have UCA/spring contact even with JBA UCAs

 

[CactusJacked]

I know some guys don't like them, and some do, but do the Rocky Road arms give any more spring clearance than the JBA arms?

 

[tommudd]

No RROs do not since they "copied" the JBA 4.0 arms
of course now JBA has upgraded to the 4.5s

 

[CactusJacked]

What was upgraded on the 4.5's?

 

[tommudd]

What was upgraded on the 4.5's?

Little different design/ balljoint placement-mounting

Haven't looked at RROs for a good while to see if they have " borrowed" the new design or not, assume they will though if they haven't already

 

[02redKJ]

Just got back from my mechanic. While there I measured mine. The suspension is bone stock to my knowledge. It is 18 3/4 in front and 19 3/4 in the rear. It's the same on both sides. Does this indicate that maybe it was made before Chrysler decided to lower the Libertys? It is a 2002 and I have 134,000 miles on it.

 

[tommudd]

If built before April 12, 2002 then it would be 3/4 inches higher when new

 

[02redKJ]

How can I find out the build date?

 

[profdlp]

How can I find out the build date?

Chrysler will email you a build sheet (no charge) if you request one. I also got one from here: CompNine VIN Decoder . It's also free for one search and you should get the results right away. It was 100% accurate as far as I can remember.

 

[02redKJ]

Thanks Prof!

 

[profdlp]

Actually, I just compared the one from CompNine and the one from Chrysler. The only place I saw the Build date (September 19, 2006 for my 2007 model) was at CompNine.

 

[02redKJ]

Here is what it returned... It was build one day before my dearly departed mother's birthday that year.

YES, a complete report with original build information is available for that VIN!
That vehicle has 148 installed options returned in the report.
It was built October 24, 2001 as a 2002 model year.

 

[profdlp]

Do they still give a free complete report? As I recall, they let you have something like up to three free ones when I got mine. They make their money off the traders and dealers.