Armysniper
Full Access Member
Yep, Lol!!!!!
Actual Lift Amount - Lets Compare Fender Heights
- Thread starter long_tall_texan
- Start date
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Yep, Lol!!!!!
scomagg
New Member
2007 Limited 70k miles on stock suspension, ~20 miles on lift
OME HD all around
Bilstein BE5D916H0 front
BDS 55968 rear
pre-lift - 19.5" all around
post lift - 22" all around
no clevis
OME HD all around
Bilstein BE5D916H0 front
BDS 55968 rear
pre-lift - 19.5" all around
post lift - 22" all around
no clevis
At 19.5 at 70,000 miles ??? Never saw that before
scomagg
New Member
Yup - I thought so also. But, I haven't seen many '07 on the site, and I have yet to find an 07 that someone measured the stock heights at this mileage. Have you seen any one else's measurements?
Is it possible the limited's have a different fender flare profile?
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Cardhu
Full Access Member
mine was 18 inches before the lift. I also have the limited painter fenders. was at 80K KM. Those fenders aren't any different.
My measurements are on pp13.
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all flares are the same basically and the last 07 I had in my garage was at 17.5 inches and 85,000 miles
2007 sport ,130K before lift was around 18 inch.
with OME 927 +NS131 front and 948 +N132 rear ,and 7 mm ring between strut and fork in front its sitting exact 21 inch 4 corners with 140K.
am actually going to get 8 inch wheels with 4.5 inch backspace and 265/70/16 tires.
what you guys think ?
with OME 927 +NS131 front and 948 +N132 rear ,and 7 mm ring between strut and fork in front its sitting exact 21 inch 4 corners with 140K.
am actually going to get 8 inch wheels with 4.5 inch backspace and 265/70/16 tires.
what you guys think ?
Personally would go with 7 inch wheels
Luke
Interloper
^^^ were you trying to get back to stock height?
Lusliberty
Full Access Member
2003 Liberty Limited New Struts and springs Rear springs Daystar 2.5 leveling,center of front 20.75 both sides and21.50 rear from center of spindles
So you installed new shocks and springs all around plus a 2.5 inch Daystar?
Lusliberty
Full Access Member
yes hubby did getting general grabber at 2 on today 245 75 16
So 1.75 inches of lift with 2.5 inch Daystar and new stock style springs.
For others who may be thinking of doing something like this instead of say OME springs/shocks, it would be interesting to see what you paid for the 4 stock springs, 4 shocks and the Daystar kit
Thanks !
For others who may be thinking of doing something like this instead of say OME springs/shocks, it would be interesting to see what you paid for the 4 stock springs, 4 shocks and the Daystar kit
Thanks !
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
OME springs and shocks.
Left front: 22.25"
Right front: 22.25"
Left rear: 21.25"
Right rear: 21"
Left front: 22.25"
Right front: 22.25"
Left rear: 21.25"
Right rear: 21"
DaleKJ
Full Access Member
2004 Libby with 30K milles
Jeep was used to tow behind motorhome so miles don't reflect suspension wear. Pure stock at the moment but will put on my lift next week.
LF: 17 5/8 RF: 17 3/4
LR: 18 1/2 RR: 18 1/2
Lift will be OME 927/948, 1/2" top plate, 1/2" Clevis Lift, JBA A-Arms, 1 extra top and 1 extra rear isolators. 2004 TJ (I think) MOAB wheels with 245/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar. I'll try To get some before and after pics posted when I'm done.
Lots of front sag I guess from the tow bar and all the extra bounce.
Dale
Jeep was used to tow behind motorhome so miles don't reflect suspension wear. Pure stock at the moment but will put on my lift next week.
LF: 17 5/8 RF: 17 3/4
LR: 18 1/2 RR: 18 1/2
Lift will be OME 927/948, 1/2" top plate, 1/2" Clevis Lift, JBA A-Arms, 1 extra top and 1 extra rear isolators. 2004 TJ (I think) MOAB wheels with 245/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar. I'll try To get some before and after pics posted when I'm done.
Lots of front sag I guess from the tow bar and all the extra bounce.
Dale
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yes sagged an inch and a half , you're really going to notice a difference for sure. On your rear isolators you are using two extra uppers correct? If not thats what you want to use . I would rethink the 1/2 inch clevis, 3/8 is more than enough, with 1/2 inch and the top plate you are going to have a lot of spring, upper control arm contact. Also I hope you mean a 1/4 inch top plate . If you would use everything the way you have listed you'd have over 4.5 inches of lift
streetglideok
Full Access Member
Ironman springs here, with OME front shocks, and Monroe Reflex(Dakota/Durango fitment) in read. 20" in front, 22" in rear as of right now. For Lusliberty and Tom, since I have nearly the same amount of lift, here is what I have invested so far. about $269 in front and rear springs, $260 in front shocks, $102 for rear shocks, and $4 in hockey pucks for the bump stop spacers in back. Keep in mind, the OME shocks in front will be far superior to the Monroe sensatac shocks, and will work correctly with the lift. Sensatrac shocks are ride height sensitive. I bring that up since they are pretty common. Labor wise, I don't pay myself, so I was out nothing.
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DaleKJ
Full Access Member
Front Lift Install Finished
Thanks for your input, Tom! The top plate was 3/8" and not 1/2". Yes, I did install the JBA 0.500" Clevis lift. I torqued the JBA Upper A-Arms while they were hanging down instead of with the weight of the Jeep on them. Is this holding up the front some? Should I release them and re-torque with the weight on them? I'm sitting at 23" center hub to fender flare which is over 5" of lift from where I started. I wasn't expecting that! I don't see how I would get that much unless the A-Arms are holding it up some. I pulled the Jeep out of the garage and turned it around so I can do the rear tomorrow. The CV joints weren't happy. Of course, I looked like a low rider in the rear so I had more weight in the rear and less in the front. I don't want to have to shave my CV joints so I may need to take the clevis spacer out. Do you think that if I loosen and re-torque the JBA Upper A-Arms now that I'm setting on the tires, and after I lift the rear so that some of the weight will shift to the front, that my CV joints will be okay. I wanted to lift as much as possible but keep the CV joints happy.
I was planning on putting 1 extra iso on top and 1 extra iso on bottom for a total of 4 with the new springs and 2 hockey puck bump stops. This is what I have purchased. I ordered the 2 bottom isos from JBA, I might can get a refund or just replace the stock bottom ones. Will this setup work? If not, I'll need to get another set of upper isos ASAP.
One last question. If my CV joints are making just a little noise, will it hurt to drive it while it settles some or will it tear them up?
I'm thinking loosen and re-torque A-Arms, do my rear lift to shift the weight forward and then drive. If CV joints aren't happy, take out clevis lift before I screw up my CV joints. By the way, what size conduit nuts are people referring to? How many equal 1/4" in case I want a little but not the 1/2".
I appreciate your advice, expertise and input.
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks for your input, Tom! The top plate was 3/8" and not 1/2". Yes, I did install the JBA 0.500" Clevis lift. I torqued the JBA Upper A-Arms while they were hanging down instead of with the weight of the Jeep on them. Is this holding up the front some? Should I release them and re-torque with the weight on them? I'm sitting at 23" center hub to fender flare which is over 5" of lift from where I started. I wasn't expecting that! I don't see how I would get that much unless the A-Arms are holding it up some. I pulled the Jeep out of the garage and turned it around so I can do the rear tomorrow. The CV joints weren't happy. Of course, I looked like a low rider in the rear so I had more weight in the rear and less in the front. I don't want to have to shave my CV joints so I may need to take the clevis spacer out. Do you think that if I loosen and re-torque the JBA Upper A-Arms now that I'm setting on the tires, and after I lift the rear so that some of the weight will shift to the front, that my CV joints will be okay. I wanted to lift as much as possible but keep the CV joints happy.
I was planning on putting 1 extra iso on top and 1 extra iso on bottom for a total of 4 with the new springs and 2 hockey puck bump stops. This is what I have purchased. I ordered the 2 bottom isos from JBA, I might can get a refund or just replace the stock bottom ones. Will this setup work? If not, I'll need to get another set of upper isos ASAP.
One last question. If my CV joints are making just a little noise, will it hurt to drive it while it settles some or will it tear them up?
I'm thinking loosen and re-torque A-Arms, do my rear lift to shift the weight forward and then drive. If CV joints aren't happy, take out clevis lift before I screw up my CV joints. By the way, what size conduit nuts are people referring to? How many equal 1/4" in case I want a little but not the 1/2".
I appreciate your advice, expertise and input.
Thanks,
Dale
